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SX-1010 shopping list

turbolite81 said:
welcome back man. looks like you have em hooked up like i did mine. are you gonna use bleeder resistors?
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DANGER WILL ROBINSON, DANGER DO NOT HOOK IT UP LIKE THAT.

also why are the 680uf Nichicon UPW caps across the big caps? who told you to use them like that?

you want STACKED FILM type caps, not another electrolytic. 2.2uf maximum (usually) 250v - EchoWars uses those..

You will force me to open the bottom of a 1010 to get the correct polarity vs wire color arrangement,(is red +v and orange -v - I have to be SURE!!!) but suffice it to say that one of the red or orange wires goes to a black (minus) terminal and one of the black wires goes to a PLUS terminal.
 
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one capacitor has black to minus and RED to PLUS

the other capacitor has black to PLUS and ORANGE TO MINUS

Stacked film capacitors are used to bypass very high frequencies away from the big electrolytic caps, because the big electrolytic caps have poor very high frequency performance due to their inherent inductance - think of what an inductor looks like in a crossover, and remember that these caps are like huge rolls of ( like toilet paper ) foils and wetted with electrolyte separator(insulator).


want a picture of it, PM me an email address to send it to... (my attachment space is huge already!!)
 
lucky for you im a pack rat and dont throw anything away. im gonna upload 2 bad pics of mine before the restore. im looking at the old caps.the orange wires go to the negative and the red wires go to the positive. the bleeder resistors are 2 watt 3.3k ohm. for what i understand they dont improve sound,just help the caps live longer and prevent you from waking up in a puddle of your own pee if you happen to touch them while charged. look at my page sx 1010 problems for the stacked film cap no's. the mouser # for the bleeders are 594-5083nw3k300j
 

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So,

Turbolites first pic is showing the black wire going to a positive terminal?


Thanks Turbo. Ill let you know how it goes when I flip the switch tomorrow. About the electrolytic's Some one did it in this forum to there pioneer. Cant remember that far back to who it was.
 
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str8tlk said:
So,

Turbolites first pic is showing the black wire going to a positive terminal?


Thanks Turbo. Ill let you know how it goes when I flip the switch tomorrow. About the electrolytic's Some one did it in this forum to there pioneer. Cant remember that far back to who it was.
Click to expand...

No, as Mark said, one cap has red and black wires connected, red goes to the positive terminal and black to the negative. The other cap has orange and black wires, with black going to the positive terminal and orange going to the negative.

If you look closely at turbolite's pics, notice that the cap with the red and black wires has the black wire going to a terminal with a black dot in the center of the terminal (that's the negative terminal). In the other pic, the orange wires are going to the terminal with the black dot.
 
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gotcha, ty.

What would happen if i did hook it up that way and turned it on? output transistor kaplueey? The original caps wernt marked with + & - indicators which through me off. Thanks again.
 
str8tlk said:
gotcha, ty.

What would happen if i did hook it up that way and turned it on? output transistor kaplueey? The original caps wernt marked with + & - indicators which through me off. Thanks again.
Click to expand...


The original caps WERE marked, the black riveted terminal is the negative.

RE: incorrect hookup, capacitor and rectifier damage, conceivably the boiling in the capacitor could explode it. Sometimes they survive, sometimes they don't.
 
I'm gonna be honest here, very embarrassing.:stupid:

I jumped the gun and hooked it up wrong the first time with the yellow wires going to the positive, With out instructions.
I turned it on and the fuse inside; the one next to the out side one blew big time.:cry: I thought oh:banana: its :banana:

I just reversed those wires as per Marks & charliemcd latest instructions. Just turned it on and it all lights up and relay clicks on. SO I imagine every thing is good.. Gonna hook up a speaker now and test both channels. Any chance I could of damaged something I need to rectify before going any further, :tresbon:

---
 
OK,

I turned her on. Left it on for 5 minutes. relay clicked on every thing good.

Hooked up speakers, very low volume from ever thing except for pre /power amp input; That sounds great all channels both sides terrific. But the on board aux/phono/tape has very low volume; I can tell the loudness and tone controls are working though through aux, phono.. Ideas?
 
That was it. I stole some off the Onkyo and walla! working. Now On to the onkyo, you guys willing to help with that one? lol
 
Good news, it works! Played it on a 1 clasic Cerwin Vega 12" house cabinet for an hour with the volume at the 6 O clock position.

Bad news. The added heat sinks to the power board were burning hot to the touch. Running a fan when playing for extended amount of time is a MUST with this receiver.
 
glad to hear you got it going! those heat sinks get dam hot when running hard. i wouldnt worry to much,im pushing 2 vega at-15's and usually pretty hard,i just keep the doors on my cabinet open,and i opened the back of the cabinet to allow airflow. no problems here yet, now you can feel some heat comming off it but can smell anything cooking.
 
did you MEASURE the voltages?? on the p.s. board awr-054. pins 8, 9, 10, 11, 13, 14 &15.

just because the protection clicks.......

then after you measure, I'll have you check P.S. currents by measuring across a few resistors on the PS board on the bottom.

THEN we will know if hot is too much current draw or normal.

too much current draw = very fast failure....

and STARTING OVER!!! :no::no::no:
 
Ok Mark, Im game. Cant thank you enough for helping me out & all the help you have given thus. Im looking over at my pioneer right now sitting top my dresser. helps me sleep, i just look over at it in all its glory and gives me good vibes.
 
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q9 2sa818 weird package npn 150v 50ma 1w 70-240hfe 120mhz

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512-KSC2690AYS to-126 ecb 120/a160 1.2a 20w 155mhz 35-320hfe $0.40
or
512-KSA1381es x to-126 ecb 300v .1a 1.2/7w 150mhz 40-320hfe $0.27 ea
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q10 2sc1669 to-220 150v 1.5a 25w 40-240hfe 6mhz
q11 2sa839 to-220 150v 1.5a 25w 40-240hfe 6mhz

512-KSA940 pnp to-220 bce 150v 1.5a 25w 4mhz 40-140hfe $0.54
512-KSC2073TU npn to-220 bce 150v 1.5a 25w 4mhz 40-140hfe $0.54





q12,q14 2sd424 to-3 180v 15a 150w 40-140hfe 5mhz
q13,q15 2sb554 to-3 180v 15a 150w 40-140hfe 5mhz

........534-4662 to-3 mica insulators $0.16 each.................
863-MJ21193G pnp to-3 250v 16/30A 250W 8-75hfe 4mhz $4.56
863-MJ21194G npn to-3 250v 16/30A 250W 8-75hfe 4mhz $4.23



I need the schematic.... for supply voltages, and idle current generation method.
to double check.
 
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Man, that was quick. I heard it was hard to locate older parts especially those type of transistors.tytytyty



[/QUOTE]I need the schematic.... for supply voltages, and idle current generation method.
to double check.[/QUOTE]


For the Onkyo? Feel free to jump on over to that thread, I really could use some help in that department.

As far as the pioneer I'm gonna grab those measurements for you tomorrow. You sir are the MAN!
 
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