• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

SX-1250 original caps??

udors

udors

Member
I've reworked an SX-850 and an SX-1010 and have found both to have all black Nippon original caps on the various boards. Now I'm in the middle of recapping my SX-1250 and am running into some variations. On the AWE-068 tuner and the AWE-021 equilizer I'm finding mostly black Nippon caps, but also some no name salmon colored caps, pink caps marked "Elna", and bright yellow Nippon caps.
Is this normal for a virgin SX-1250 or might someone have changed to the odd-ball caps from original black Nippons? Are the odd colored caps "audio" quality? I'm replacing everything with 105 deg Nichicon caps from Mouser, using older posts on AK as a parts number guide.
 
Register to hide this ad
If you're replacing them, who cares what they used to be? ;)

(Hint: The clue to whether they are original or not is looking at the solder side of the board)
 
Maybe watch for the orange caps? I believe these are low noise/low leakage caps. There are 2 on the -021 board, C17 & C18 3.3uF 50v Pioneer PN: CEANL 3R3P 50. I just recapped this board but had ordered the Nichicon UPW's when Goat67 noticed this so I left the original 2 in until I get the low leakage ones. Maybe we're wrong and can get by with the UPW's that I have. I also have UPW's for recapping the control and flat amp boards that require the low leakage caps. Echowars input is greatly appreciated!

Also don't forget to replace the blue Tantalum caps. 3 out of 4 on my -021 board were way out of spec and the one on my CT-F1250's control board would go south as it heated up causing the tape presence circuit to shut off the TU motor.
 
Last edited:
The key to cap type is in the Pioneer part number. For any particular part number or series, there is likely a variety of qualified vendors, with a variety of colors. The Pioneer part number is the important thing. Your new ones will likely be a different color that the old ones. For example, for me, the generic black Nippon black ones usually get replaced with Nichicon black and gold, or blue and gold. How fun...

Enjoy,
Rich P
 
Ok
If the original cap is used in a tone equalizer circuit and it is a CSZA which is a tantalum and is rated at 22uf @ 16v what would you replace with? Nichoicon PM or Panisonic FW (?) I buy from mouser.

Or if it is a CSZA 2.2uf @6v what to use here a stacked film?

I guess the real question is why not replace with a tantalum ?
Is it cost?
Reliability?

On the low leakage what are the codes? I know CEANL is one and you need a low leakage cap here. What brand and type?

Inquiring minds want to know.....

Thanks, Eagle1 and Goat67

Thanks for your expertise.
 
Tantalum caps sound crappy. They were used back in the day because their leakage was so much lower than the standard electrolytics of the time. Tantalum caps were all the rage for a while.

As far as the 22µf 16V back-to-back electrolytics on the flat amp of the 1250, I usually replace one with a bare wire (clipping from a previous cap or resistor install), and the other with a bipolar cap (Panasonic SU). This totally eliminates one cap from the signal path.

Everyone has their own way to deal with such refurbishing questions. I described one of mine.
 
Some food for thought here. I checked the caps I have against the various data sheets and think I'm OK. Mostly Nichicon UPW, UKT UPM. All low impedance with a wide temperature range.
Thank you, Udo
 
Non-electrolytic variations??

Now working on the AWG-042 and AWG-041 boards that contain various switches and potentiometers. I'm running across ceramic type (tear drop shaped) non-polarized capacitors where the service manual calls for electrolytics. On the AWG-041A board C-44, C-4 and C-2 are some of them. I've held off changing them till someone can please explain and recommend.
Thank you, Udo :scratch2:
 
Those are tantalum...a type of electrolytic cap. Replace with your favorite brand of high-quality aluminum electrolytic.
 
Those are tantalum caps, they're multi-colored, right?

replace them with film caps.

edit: sheesh, I do one post and two show up in the interim.
 
udors said:
Now working on the AWG-042 and AWG-041 boards that contain various switches and potentiometers. I'm running across ceramic type (tear drop shaped) non-polarized capacitors where the service manual calls for electrolytics. On the AWG-041A board C-44, C-4 and C-2 are some of them. I've held off changing them till someone can please explain and recommend.
Thank you, Udo :scratch2:
Click to expand...

Tantalum caps: 6 on the 041 board and 4 on the 042 board. They are polarity. If you look closely on the cap it will have a small + on one side and the board is marked also as such. So make sure if you use an electro cap to install correctly. There are 4 on the eq/phono amp board. Hopefully you replaced them when you recapped it. Major difference after I did mine. I could not find film caps so I used Nichicon electro's UPW's.
 
Last edited:
I already have the Nichicon UPW's for those positions, so I'll use them. Check on polarity. Question - what advantage/disadvantage using film caps over high temp electrolytics when replacing the tantalums?

Looking at the power supply board (the one with the fuses, under the chassis) I find two 470uF 100volt axial caps. Poring through the Mouser catalogue I'm faced with several choices. Nichicon has the TVX series, but only 85 degree. I find a 105 degree axial by XICON that might be the right ones. Is XICON a quality manufacturer?
 
udors said:
Looking at the power supply board (the one with the fuses, under the chassis) I find two 470uF 100volt axial caps. Poring through the Mouser catalogue I'm faced with several choices. Nichicon has the TVX series, but only 85 degree. I find a 105 degree axial by XICON that might be the right ones. Is XICON a quality manufacturer?
Click to expand...
85 deg. C is okay it's the length you need to match, so make sure you measure the one of the existing ones first to make sure the new ones are long enough. The Nichicon's have longer leads than the Xicon. I know I ordered mine from Mouser but can't find any order history on it, strange, so can't help you out on the PN. I'm sure they're Nichicons tho
 
The originals are 2" (50mm), both Nichicon and Xicon are 32mm. The leads on either should be ok.
This Mouser catalog is a wealth of information. Use it with their web site info and you can learn most anything about their parts.
Thanks, Udo
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom