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SX1250 / SX5590 Restoration

knownman

New Member
Hello everyone,

This is my first thread outside of the introduction I did awhile ago. I bought this receiver about a year maybe 18 months ago. It’s been fairly reliable and had seen some service prior to my buying it but it wasn’t fully restored. About 6 months ago I had an issue with one channel not producing much sound. I eventually figured out that it was due to a dirty bass filter, at least that’s what I believe cured the symptom once I released the filter that I had set after a listening to a rather bass heavy vinyl had caused some heavy oscillation on my Cerwin Vega D9s. The issue has basically disappeared now, although I haven’t played that record again since. While the problem was happening I increased my search for someone, anyone really who could restore the receiver. It wasn’t a pleasant search to say the least, as most shops either didn’t work on Pioneers, or perhaps just this Pioneer, or they weren’t taking new business. I did exchange emails with someone when I first purchased the unit who penciled me into his schedule..... I think the time cue was something around 36 to 40 months!
So during the time I’ve found a few, or maybe quite a few you tube channels and some forums such as this one where I’ve started to put together an alternate game plan. That plan is to do this restoration myself. I actually trained in BEE during my stint in the Navy. And it’s fair to say I’ve dabbled in electrical and electronics for the better part of my life. Heck I built a TRS 80 in freshman year of high school. Add to that hundreds of projects over the years including a couple of Nixie clock builds. It’s fair to say I like to tinker. So I’ve started to collect the necessary tools for this including a Tektronix 2246, Siglent 1202x-e, B@K 501a precision curve tracer, Meterman 37XR digital multi-meter, Koolertron? signal generator, Dim bulb tester, 8 ohm load tester, Hakko 301 desoldering gun, Pace soldering station not sure what number but I’ve had it for years and it’s always pulled through, etc... I figure why not invest in myself and take the challenge, and get some cool tools in the process. Here is where you guys come in. I’m hoping I can leverage your expertise when I come across questions that the search button doesn’t assist with. I’ve already cued up many threads which I referenced for my BOM and such. I’m hoping I can count on you all. It would be great to have this platform as my resource. I’ll keep everyone up to speed on the work as it progresses.
Many thanks in advance,

Matt
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Hello again,

So I've started my work and pulled the left AWH 048 board which has the Tantalum capacitor. In the BOM I pulled from Matt SD's list he recommends an alternate Panasonic metallized film cap #667-ECQ-V1H224JL which is no longer made.
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/315/panasonic_abd0000ce8-1196940.pdf
I found an alternative which I've brought in but I'm concerned it may not be suitable for the application. This is what I found from CDE on Mouser #539-168224J50C-F.
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/88/168-185-16061.pdf
It's the same capacitance and the same higher voltage rating but doesn't specify it as non inductive unlike the Panasonic. Curious if it's a good option in this forums opinion or if there's a recommended alternative.

M
 
Thanks Ivandezande.

Curious question for you. Do you replace all the transistors too? I've had some internal debate in my head about this.

Best regards

M
 
Thanks Ivandezande.

Curious question for you. Do you replace all the transistors too? I've had some internal debate in my head about this.

Best regards

M
On a 1250 I replace all transistors in the entire unit except for the ones on the amp boards (aside from the input pair).
 
Most of the transistors get replaced. The 1250 has many of the problematic transistors in the circuits.
The stabilizer board gets a wholesale trans replacement for reliability.
 
Thanks ivandezande, Super Noob and Zebulon. Transistors will get the go ahead. Also liked that BOM on your thread SN. That’s going to be searched over soon.
 
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So the process continues at a slow but steady pace. Staying busy at home with projects including upgrading my truck for overlanding duties and 3D printing new keys enclosures for our Honda. The Pandemic has made things difficult for sure but I find I have more time now that I'm working from home and not commuting everyday.
Decided to make some use of the B&K precision semiconductor curve tracer I bought from an estate sale. It's really making comparing these transistors a lot easier. I basically screen shot each reading and sort through them in a photo editing suite. I bought twice as many as I needed just to eliminate any off spec gains. I've found they aren't generally too far away from each other but there are outliers that I will segregate out. This is tedious and I had to purchase new mini grabbers cables and color code them just to ensure everything as equal as possible and repeatable.
 
Very cool tech gear and nice tuxedo 1250. It's a great piece of gear. I 2nd Super Noob's build thread, he uses a lot of film caps which are commonly recommended as superior to electrolytics as well as mainly Nichicon PW/KL elect caps.

I see a can of deoxit, be sure to not use d5 or d100 on your potentiometers. Use Deoxit FaderLube instead. Consider learning how to disassemble the toggle switches to clean them as well, in my opinion deoxit alone doesn't do a good enough job for them.

Keep us posted!
 
IMG_3650.jpg IMG_3676.jpg IMG_3677.jpg Thanks much MIJ. I actually have a can of FaderLube as well. I'll definitely look at the toggles. I'm quite adept in the mechanical side of things. I also just rewired the 501a to allow me to not have to use the mini grabbers. Now the pin outs are matched to all of the transistors I'm actually using.
 
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