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Tandberg 2075 Sound Drops Out - Advice Please

Peter K.

New Member
Hi All - new forum user here. My Dad recently passed down his Tandberg 2075 receiver to me having bought the unit new in the 70's. The unit is in generally great shape and powers on, lights work, dials turn, switches activate, and was well cared for during it life. My issue and why I am reaching out for help is that while the unit powers up, and will output sound to the speakers that are connected to it, after about 30-60 minutes the sound completely cuts out. The unit stays powered on but the sound just drops out, I have tried adjusting the volume, change the output, connect to a different speaker, etc. If I turn the unit off and let the unit rest for a bit and come back to it, re-power it on, it will resume playing sound (it will output FM, AM and to the CD player I have connected to it). To note, it is somewhat inconsistent as to how long it will output sound, ie, sometimes shorter time frames, sometimes longer, but it always cuts out. To date, I have not serviced the unit so I am looking for advice on a possible plan of action to try to diagnose and hopefully fix the issue(s). I appreciate any thoughts and apologize in advance if this issue has been discussed in prior threads as I was not able to find such a scenario discussed.
 
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If both channels are cutting out together I'd also be looking direction relay (do you hear the relay 'click' out when the audio stops ?).
As a shot in the dark - the time aspect suggests to me a thermal involvement, apparently reversible as it cools, maybe a heat damaged solder joint ? You could have a quick look around the relay area, especially near R980 / Q975 and the relay itself - if it's a Mk1, that area could have been running quite hot, there's a lot of current there (from the schematic values at least), and I noticed that the Mk2 was redesigned in that area.

Alan
 
The connectors on preamplifier (A7 board) and mode/filter board (A8) can get intermittent
contact from weakened solderings from thermal cycling that pulls and pushes cables a tiny
bit. After 45 years it can look like in the picture, very sensitive to temperature changes
and mechanical movement. The Tone Defeat switch can give clues to where the problem
is, trace signals in schematic to see what is affected by the switch. Picture from J703 on
preamlifier board on 2075 Mk II. Very difficult to see with naked eye but easy to fix.
(after a multitude of invectives in many languages)
Glappkontakt.jpg
 
Thanks to those generous folks who replied with suggestions. I am going to take on the start of the project later today and report back with progress asap. Much appreciated again.
 
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