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Tangent 400 Score!!

I know this is an old thread but does anyone have any internal pictures of these?Bob did you manage to build a pair of these? I have a pair of Heresy II's that got covered in speaker fabric and would like to change them over to better cabinets
 
IIRC, there is a technical drawing of the cabinets, complete with dimensions and cutouts of the Tangent 400 floating around on the Klipsch forums, or at least there was one a few years ago.
 
something similar to the Tangent; an extended 3way version of the "CS1.5" using the CT125 (or D220ti)tweeter, D250-X midrange and CW1228 woofers would be a interesting budget alternative to the cornscala. i see many foreign builders that want klipschsound but are put off by the size of the thing, shipping costs (+declaration fees etc.). instead they usually go for a RF82, that dont come close to the midrange of a 3way.
sorry a bit offtopic :)
 
My brother is delivering a set of Tangent T 5000s to my house this weekend. Picked them up with a tangent center for $100. Nice score! I have the KM6s also and I love them too.
 
Just picked up a pair of Tangent 400's for $75 including tax. Still in my truck. needs some cleaning and detailing. Any way to get wax off speaker covers? I'll fill you in as soon as I hook these bad Boys up.
 
I plugged them in last night. Sounded good except one seemed a bit off. Pulled the K-76 horn tweeter. Dead. Any suggestions on a good repair kit. Saw a few on the bay. Which might be close to match the other one or should I just replace both?
 
I plugged them in last night. Sounded good except one seemed a bit off. Pulled the K-76 horn tweeter. Dead. Any suggestions on a good repair kit. Saw a few on the bay. Which might be close to match the other one or should I just replace both?

Just buy a pair of the Crites titanium diaphragms. At $52 + S&H, you can't go wrong. They'll push your treble out to 20kHz. Rebuilding with new diaphragms is dead simple: http://www.critesspeakers.com/replacing_the_diaphragm_on_.html

-D
 
Stuck in the horn from a beater pair of RS Mach Three's (the one on the left) I just picked up to make sure it was not the crossover. don't sound bad at all. Might order the kit this week.
 

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I know this is an old thread but does anyone have any internal pictures of these?Bob did you manage to build a pair of these? I have a pair of Heresy II's that got covered in speaker fabric and would like to change them over to better cabinets

FastCat: take a look at dave's page for correct tested cabinet design. You can play with cabinet volume up to 20% without a huge difference. A little smaller a tad less bass a little larger a tad more bass. Hope this is of interest. Best regards Moray James.

http://www.fastlaneaudio.com/
 

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Way to dredge up the past. This is my first post here but I have lurked and procured much info for quite a while. I only wanted to say that I have a pair of the Tangent T-4000's. I bought them new as a closeout item at the Army Post Exchange in Landstuhl Germany in 94. I got them for $375 for the pair which at the time was nearly 50% off. They have been my main speaker ever since. To this day I still stand in awe of their might. They can attain ear splitting volume levels and have done so quite regularly for over 20 years. I have recently changed the caps in the xover and will soon get some titanium tweeter diaphragms as well Bob's mid range. The upgrades to the xover brought them a focus they have never had without diminishing any of the qualities that I love about them. As has been mentioned above, if you come across a pair of these don't hesitate to get them. They are incredible. I am wondering if anyone here has done any mods to improve the cabs at all. I have not tried my hand at cab building and don't know a lot about the science of it. Can these even be improved? Thanks to all who openly share their knowledge with others here.
 
Welcome to AK. This is a wonderful place with many helpful, nice folks.

I'm a bargain shopper and fixer-upper. I bought an ugly pair of Tangent 500s this summer. Similar to yours but instead of ports they have a passive radiator woofer mounted below the woofer. I'm very pleased with them, but I don't think I paid enough for them ($150) to be a full member of this forum.

From all I've read, you've covered the upgrade basics -- up to adding bracing to the cabinets.

The only complaint I have read (as you have too, evidently) is that the cabinets are weaker than normal Klipsch and that can lead to vibration at higher SPL. I've not noticed anything. Some day I will add some bracing. There is a thread here on AK about someone doing it. Search for it. simply 1x1 or 2x2 glued to the corners. I also read that a horizontal brace below the drivers is good. I think you'll find that bracing thread under "Tangent 500."

But see this thread, where there is some question whether the 4000/5000 tangents may have more bracing than the 400/500. Pull one of your woofers and see if there is bracing. If there is, please post a picture for me.

I could have had my Tangents for $125 as I found a bad tweeter during inspection, but the guy was selling for his son, who was in the service (who must have bought second hand). So I paid the full price advertised. Which leads me to say: thank you for your service.
 
Slestak, I found this:

I went overkill bracing my Klipsch cabinets....

I had a pair of Tangent 5000s that had come unglued on the back panels and since I had all the drivers out I went to town by reglueing all the panel joints on the inside with the Elmer's urethane glue (another member mentioned, good stuff!). Then I glued in 90 degree cut wood triangular blocks on the top, bottom, & sides for corner bracing (several of them down all four of the inside corners). After that dried. I installed braces from the front panel to the rear panel (cut exactly, to fit tightly) and crossed them with braces going from side to side. The braces were glued to the panels and glued where they crossed each other. I did not use any nails, but I did put in one inch deck type screws just barely into the panels to hold the wood pieces in place until the glue set up. Once the glue was dry, I removed the screws.
I had to do one half of each speaker at a time while it was laying on its side so that the glue would not run down the insides of the cabinet. I'd do a front and back corner seam, plus where the side panels met the top & bottom panels. Previous to the glueing and bracing the cabinets sounded like a drum when you'd slap the sides, but after the reinforcing had set up, all you'd hear was your hand hitting the surface of the cabinet.....no more hollow sound. I think the semi-flexibility of the urethane glue helped tone things down a hair also.
I even went beyond that and glued & stapled foam carpet padding on all sides of the cabinet (except the front) and the cross braces. The speakers did sound great after I got them reassembled and had plenty of bass, but no rattling back panel. I'm thinking of doing the same to my KLF-20s, but haven't gotten to it yet.

The 5000s are similar to your 4000s but not ported and including a passive woofer. I'd think the bracing procedure would work for you as well. It is a lot of work.
 
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