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TD 124 Idler Wheel

gillsev

gillsev

Well-Known Member
My TD124 still has a good idler wheel without flat spots. No audible rumble at all. I recently took it off the shaft to lube it and discovered a few cracks underneath.

Top looks like this ...
DSC_4012.JPG


But the bottom is exhibiting some cracks (fewer cracks than those shown in the pic below) ...
DSC_4015.JPG


Should I go ahead and replace it, or just use it to the ground?
I contacted Octave Audio to see how much they'd sell me an idler wheel replacement. They told me $250.00 :yikes:

I about fell off my chair!
 
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You can get a rebuilt wheel for much less and it will be just as good as OEM. PM me if you need to know where you can get one.
 
gillsev said:
My TD124 still has a good idler wheel without flat spots. No audible rumble at all. I recently took it off the shaft to lube it and discovered a few cracks underneath.

Top looks like this ...
DSC_4012.JPG


But the bottom is exhibiting some cracks (fewer cracks than those shown in the pic below) ...
DSC_4015.JPG


Should I go ahead and replace it, or just use it to the ground?
I contacted Octave Audio to see how much they'd sell me an idler wheel replacement. They told me $250.00 :yikes:

I about fell off my chair!
Click to expand...
Don't mess with Octave. Their prices are WAAAY too high.
 
nu2toobs said:
I've heard great things about his wheels. I bought one about a year ago, and never used it till a week ago. It's out of round and wobbly. I emailed him for a replacement and haven't heard back yet. I've been told it takes a while for him to respond. When I hear an answer, I'll post back.
Click to expand...

His name is Mirko. This is the only feedback I've heard about his wheels ...
http://www.theanalogdept.com/assemble_all.htm
How much did it cost you?

I don't think he has any in stock for the moment because he told me he was willing to sell me used ones for $65.00.

But now, "Bliss53" (aka Peter) offered to give me his old one for free (I'll just pay shipping). No cracks on his. What an outstanding guy! :thmbsp:
 
Terry's Rubber Rollers will make that idler wheel like new again. Cheap too (under $50). Recommended. We use their rebuilt wheels in our TD-124 and TDW-224 turntables and are discriminating about their upkeep. Terry Witt's customer service is legendary. That way you have a spare too. Backup is good!
 
KentTeffeteller said:
Terry's Rubber Rollers will make that idler wheel like new again. Cheap too (under $50). Recommended. We use their rebuilt wheels in our TD-124 and TDW-224 turntables and are discriminating about their upkeep. Terry Witt's customer service is legendary. That way you have a spare too. Backup is good!
Click to expand...

You got a link?
 
$250 is about the price that Chopper (Switzerland) charges for a newly made one (I know coz I'm a Thorens dealer and often have old turntables for repair / restore). I would definitely try with Terry. As for the cracks, no big deal if it still works fine.
I once had a similar idler remade by Turntable Basics and was quite disappointed. Quite uneven finish, and over two months to get it done including overseas shipping. But it was as cheap as it could ($40) and it was to be used in an old "electrophone" tube player, so nothing that deserves a precisely machined idler...
 
Flow the cracks with just enough HIGH GRADE cynoacrylate to fill them, no more.

The splitting will stop and the dehydrated ares will be reinforced.

Similar to drilling and pinning a crack in metal.

Don't do this though if the cracks extend all the way out to the edge as this may give you hard spots where the wheel meets the platter's rim.

If that's the case fill the cracks with a copolymer speaker adhesive as used with loudspeaker repair.

Treat the rubber with this, and that wheel will last another 40 years:
http://www.altex.com/MG-Chemicals-Rubber-Renue-Liquid-4-oz-408A-100ML-P143221.aspx

Jim
 
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gillsev said:
Thank you KT88Lover :thmbsp:

Googled it and found this ...

http://www.superglueindia.com/cyanoacrylate-adhesives.htm

I sent my inquiry on their specialty grade for rubber.

My cracks are far fewer than that picture shown and doesn't extend all the way out to the edge.
Click to expand...

You may also use copolymer to cement a very thin rubber, fiber or cloth "washer" over the cracked area after the cynoacrylate repair has cured. Locate or fabricate one that has a center hole opening which corresponds to the brass hub's diameter but has an outside diameter which only extends as far as needed to cover the cracked area(s). Entirely optional, just a bit of overkill reinforcement to the suspect area for peace of mind. I have used paper thin black rubber washers on idler repairs simply for the fact that when carefully applied you can't even tell that the wheel has been "fixed", it looks factory. Again, optional.

I am not familiar with "Aman International". I do know that "Bob Smith Industries" "Zap" and "3M" all market a good quality cynoacrylate. There are others. A good hobby shop will have what you need. You want a medium or thin viscosity to take advantage of the capillary action.

I do know that the Japanese make excellent product. Just because I have not heard of "Aman" does not mean that they too are not excellent. But I will be honest here, I am always a bit suspect when it come to proprietary materials from India, this based on negative experiences I have had with some of their finished goods.

You want to find "hospital grade" if possible but DON'T stress over it if it's not so marked.

The "hospital grade" only means it is a very pure mix. Any of them (HIGH quality) will work fine.

Jim
 
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Daniel Walte said:
I`d get some silicone rtv and fill them cracks in and use the old wheel before i would give 250 bucks
Click to expand...

RTV will fill the voids but offer little help in checking the fissures. It will not adhere well to rubber, glass, smooth metal etc and other silicone (cured) substratum on its own. It is most effective at it's job, under stress or pressure, when accompanied by mechanical pressure or clamping and that is to form a gasket or seal.

Jim
 
KT88Lover said:
You may also use copolymer to cement a very thin rubber, fiber or cloth "washer" over the cracked area after the cynoacrylate repair has cured. Locate or fabricate one that has a center hole opening which corresponds to the brass hub's diameter but has an outside diameter which only extends as far as needed to cover the cracked area(s). Entirely optional, just a bit of overkill reinforcement to the suspect area for peace of mind. I have used paper thin black rubber washers on idler repairs simply for the fact that when carefully applied you can't even tell that the wheel has been "fixed", it looks factory. Again, optional.

I am not familiar with "Aman International". I do know that "Bob Smith Industries" "Zap" and "3M" all market a good quality cynoacrylate. There are others. A good hobby shop will have what you need. You want a medium or thin viscosity to take advantage of the capillary action.

I do know that the Japanese make excellent product. Just because I have not heard of "Aman" does not mean that they too are not excellent. But I will be honest here, I am always a bit suspect when it come to proprietary materials from India, this based on negative experiences I have had with some of their finished goods.

You want to find "hospital grade" if possible but DON'T stress over it if it's not so marked.

The "hospital grade" only means it is a very pure mix. Any of them (HIGH quality) will work fine.

Jim
Click to expand...

Hi Jim,

Okay, so which one will best suit my needs ... Thanks.

http://www.bsi-inc.com/Pages/hobby/ca.html
 
gillsev said:
Hi Jim,

Okay, so which one will best suit my needs ... Thanks.

http://www.bsi-inc.com/Pages/hobby/ca.html
Click to expand...

I have done all my repairs using the water thin stuff, again taking advantage of the capillary action, so I would say the "Insta-Cure" if you're going with Bob Smith product.

But as you already know, that "IC-2000" looks as if it were made specifically for your job, right down to the color.

Problem is, I have never used that product from them, but I can say, if it's thin enough to flow well into your cracks then it would be fine to.

No way of knowing without springing for it and testing its capillary action with a bit of paper towel.

All of the Bob Smith adhesives I have used work exactly as advertised.

If you don't want to experiment, play it safe and go with the thin "Insta-Cure", it'll be fine. Let it cure over night and don't use an accelerator.

Jim
 
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