TDK HD-01 Demagnetizer

[geode]

I was digging through some cassettes someone gave me. One of the cassettes was a cassette type demagnetizer with a circuit board inside it. Do these things work very well or at all. The battery is apparently dead in this one. If anything a nice touch of nostalgia, yes. I had a wand type long ago for my 8 tracks and later cassettes.

 

[geode]

I was digging through some cassettes someone gave me. One of the cassettes was a cassette type demagnetizer with a circuit board inside it. Do these things work very well or at all. The battery is apparently dead in this one. If anything a nice touch of nostalgia, yes. I had a wand type long ago for my 8 tracks and later cassettes.

Okay, so I took it apart and the meter said the battery was good. I put it back together ensuring the contacts had a good grip. Inserted it in the player and Voila it works. THe only thing is, I'm not sure how long to leave it in the player as it apparently will run until the battery dies. Anybody know how much time is required for these types of demanetizers. Thanks.

 

[TerryS]

I've got one. Not sure if it is TDK, but sounds like it is similar. It just takes a second or two to demagnetize the heads. If you have the deck powered on, you will see the level meters max out then drop back to zero. Then it is done. Mine has a small LED in it that comes on while it is demagnetizing, then goes out. It is a very loud signal, so don't have the output turned up at all. They work by applying a VERY LOUD A.C. signal to the head and then letting it decay to zero. It is best if you can do it without turning on the deck, but some (like my Aiwa) need the deck turned on to move the heads into the play position. I just keep the output level of the deck turned all the way down.

Do they work? Yes. I'm not sure how they compare to the 60 Hz line powered, hand held demagnetizers, but I've used mine for years and I think it does a good job. One down-side is it does not demagnetize the entire path. Only the playback head. I use my hand held unit from time to time to take care of the rest of the path. But on my deck, not much in the path besides the PB/Record head is magnetic (ferrous) anyway. About the only other part that contacts the tape that seems to be ferrous is the erase head, and it isn't likely to get magnetized if you record something from time to time. The erase signal should keep it "clean". The rest of the parts that contact the tape appear to be stainless or something non-ferrous on my machine.

It is quick and easy and you can do a quick de-mag every time you play a tape if you want....

Terry

 

[geode]

Thanks Terry. The TDK also has a small led that lights red when you start the play feature. I have the output level turned to Zero, so I don't see any anything on the VU meters. I let it run for about a minute. I have a handheld wand coming soon, but after finding the TDK in a pile of old cassettes it just wouldn't be right not to try it out and see if it still worked

I've got one. Not sure if it is TDK, but sounds like it is similar. It just takes a second or two to demagnetize the heads. If you have the deck powered on, you will see the level meters max out then drop back to zero. Then it is done. Mine has a small LED in it that comes on while it is demagnetizing, then goes out. It is a very loud signal, so don't have the output turned up at all. They work by applying a VERY LOUD A.C. signal to the head and then letting it decay to zero. It is best if you can do it without turning on the deck, but some (like my Aiwa) need the deck turned on to move the heads into the play position. I just keep the output level of the deck turned all the way down.

Do they work? Yes. I'm not sure how they compare to the 60 Hz line powered, hand held demagnetizers, but I've used mine for years and I think it does a good job. One down-side is it does not demagnetize the entire path. Only the playback head. I use my hand held unit from time to time to take care of the rest of the path. But on my deck, not much in the path besides the PB/Record head is magnetic (ferrous) anyway. About the only other part that contacts the tape that seems to be ferrous is the erase head, and it isn't likely to get magnetized if you record something from time to time. The erase signal should keep it "clean". The rest of the parts that contact the tape appear to be stainless or something non-ferrous on my machine.

It is quick and easy and you can do a quick de-mag every time you play a tape if you want....

Terry

 

[Nakdoc]

I still use mine. The process is automatic. It takes about 3 seconds. The field is stronger than all demags, save the big Annis Han-D-mag. Apparently these are pretty rare. No one else on NakTalk has one.

 

[harleyfatboy]

I have the TDK model as well...it always scared me when the VUs would MAX out quickly but my deck always worked. Now I just keep it because I figure it isnt worth anything but cool to hang on to...I have a wand type demag now since I recently acquired a R2R...

 

[geode]

I still use mine. The process is automatic. It takes about 3 seconds. The field is stronger than all demags, save the big Annis Han-D-mag. Apparently these are pretty rare. No one else on NakTalk has one.

Only thee seconds, huh. Cool! I can't find much on the TDK, that's why I was hoping someone here on AK would comment. Incidently, I was over at Naktalk today. I just got a Nak LX-3. Sounds really good.

 

[MaxItaly]

That's my HD-01... it's old, but it still works great! :thmbsp:

 

[parman]

I just found one of the same model but I see it doesn't look anything like this other one. I'm gonna see if it still works today.

 

[Daunia 70]

I've got the TDK HD-30,use it quite often.The battery and LED are both still going strong,think I bought it around 1989/90.
Also use a plug in Sony HE-3 for my RTR's.

[/IMG]

 

[Blue Shadow]

Interesting the two HD-01s, one is SMD technology and the other is through-hole. Wonder how close the schematics of these two really are?

 

[Scorpion8]

I've got several of these and grab them whenever I see them left around in thrifts, etc. They put out a dying field, that is it peaks and then dies off, so you only need to leave it in the machine unit a count of say 3-4 seconds. They work very well. Just make sure you turn down all the inputs, outputs, etc when using it.