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Teac belt replacement: Okay, now what?

anytune

anytune

Super Member
A co-worker gave me a 1967 Teac A-1200 RtR. It's in great shape, just needed a belt, which I ordered. Removed the front plate and located the two hubs where the new belt goes. It fits easily over the small hub in the center, but for the life of me I can't figure how to get it around the large hub in lower right without a great deal of further disassembly. It won't slide underneath, and removing the three screws around the center of the hub didn't help. From the back I can't even reach the mounting screws that hold the head array frame in place. What am I missing?
 
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I did this on another teac. What I did is remove the head stack assembly. The whole assembly moved out of the way. Next, I removed the three screws from the flywheel along with the black plastic shield for the tension arm. When all that is removed you can get in there and clean it up and install the belt.

I actually went further by removing the flywheel and cleaned and re-lubed it.

Hope this helps.

BTW when the head stock is out of the way you can turn it and look at all the heads and guides. I got them much cleaner while the assembly was loose.
 
Oh, I forgot. If you can't find a maint manual for this. Get the manual for a Teac 4010 from hifiengine.com. Yours looks the same a that model.
 
You should be able to squeeze it in from the back with this model. A bracket with 2 screws over the capstan area. Loosen one screw, rotate the bracket a little, and squeeze it in. The same basic chassis for the 4000 series.
 
Do Jonny's idea first. He's better in the know joining and reading many of his posts. :yes: Let us know how it goes.
 
There is a hole in the back underneath the flywheel, but it is very small -- maybe 1 1/2 inches across -- and the gap was too narrow, even with the belt flattened. I'll try Jonny's suggestion to widen the gap a bit. Thanks! (They sure don't make this easy...)
 
Go to www.hifiengine.com download the teac a-4010 maint manual. I think you will find this just like your model. On page 14 it will give you some directions on replacing the belt. It also has a picture of capstan bracket assy. Like I mentioned before, you will have to remove the head stack assy out of the way and get to the screws for the capstan bracket assy from the rear of the unit. If you have a digital camera, take pictures so you don't get confused on the reassembly. Its actually pretty simple. If you are having problems with loosening the screws from the capstan bracket assy, scrape off the plastic material that was put over the screws. They can be somewhat of a bear to break loose. Just don't strip the heads on the philips screws.
 
I did my A-1500W, it goes in from the rear at the Flywheel base. Need to remove the bottom bracket.

Nice machine.

Thanks,
John.:music::D
 
Well, that didn't go very well. I couldn't budge any of the screws, and the one to the left of the rear cutout appears to be stripped. :( I think I'm going to raise the white flag on this one. Thanks for your help, everyone.
 
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Most of the screws are glued in place. I used acetone to dissolve, but it also melts plastic, so be careful. I invested in a Quality professional screwdriver, about 8 or 9" long, with nice grip, for my 4010SL. I got mine at sears, but Wal-mart is cheaper. The one I have has a boss to use a crescent wrench on, so with 2 people(1 pushing down, the other twisting) , you may get it
 
yea, those screws can be buggers. But not impossible. If by chance you are getting frustrated over this, you might want to put it aside for a while and come back to it. You are the one there doing it. If you do put up the white flag. Go and search out someone in your area that works on rtr and have them replace the belt.

Now as a side note here. I had a striped phillips head on one of my rtr. I got a small needle nose vice grip tool. Carefully getting a bite on the head of the screw and broke it loose. :thmbsp:

Another approach is to block your deck with the back facing up. Get a bright light in the area where the screw is. Use a small flat tipped jewlers screw driver and chip away at the glue. Take some acitone with a Q tip and carefully drench the area to soften the rest of the glue. Using small screw driver to get more of the glue off. Doing this I found helped in the final extration of the stubborn screw.

Worse case is to drill it out but we don't even want to go there now. :D
 
Thanks Jonny and Sat. You're right, frustration is getting the better of me. It seemed like a simple, straight-forward task. But hey, sometimes the beast wins -- and permanent damage is going to result if I continue. Time to put her back in the closet and find a professional. Thanks for your input.
 
Anytune. Well ok. But hey, when you do get this rtr up and running post back here with some pics and shouts of joy. It'll happen. :thmbsp:
 
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