TEAC X7R general info needed

[steerpike2]

Hi
I've just acquired a TEAC X7R Mk1, in a not-bad state for only $25. Lordy, this thing is HEAVY for its size!
I decided to strip it and clean it before trying to get any serious use out of it - somebody severely over-oiled it.
It's disassembled, and now I have some questions:

(1) the original brochure (which I still have from '81) lists among the features of the X10, X10R as them having "Real Time Pause", but not so for the X7,X7R.
What is real time pause, and why is is better than whatever pause the X7 has?

(2) I see the counter in the X7R has a 'zero' detect switch, wired to the logic board, but the X7 doesnt have a 'zero locate' function as do some other decks.
Why or when does it need to know when the counter reaches "0000"?

(3) The belt is in a good state, not slack, not stickey. Probably not the original one. It hops positions quite correctly on motor reversal, but it takes fairly long to do so - about 3 seconds. This is just marginally too slow for the auto-reverse delay, so the first second or so of reverse play is with no tape tension - then it straightens itself out.
What is the correct time for the belt to shift position? Is the belt shift too slow, or is the tape drive logic not waiting long enough?

(4) Who the hell dreamed up that crappy tape tensioner arm mechanism with the little nylon strings?!? (And the spring tied to a different part of the chassis entirely, so you can't assemble it or test it with the front plate removed)
When the strings are slack, they work nicely (low tension range) but as the strings tighten up over the drum (high tension range), the arms become very juddery and un-smooth. Do the strings need to be replaced?

(5) What improvements were made on the X7R Mk2, and the X700R? From what I can tell, EE tape and inboard DBX. Anything else?


Thanks for any insights.

 

[Jonny Ramone]

I have an X-700R. I'm guessing that the zero detect switch is a FF/RWD feature- it stops on zero. I got a belt from teac, and if you watch it work without the back cover you'll see it switch positions, and it takes about 3 seconds.I paid $300 for mine, so you got a great deal. I'm looking for an X-7R myself, as it has switches for older tapes.

 

[Jonny Ramone]

My tensioner arms aren't smooth , either, but work well FF/RWDing tape, so I haven't messed with them.

 

[KentTeffeteller]

When the X series Teacs are working, they sound excellent. But they are very prone to capstan motor burnout. This motor is very weak to belong on an open reel machine. Keep your Capstan Belt in good order and use the Genuine Teac part to replace it. Replace it every 3-4 years. If you let it go too long, the weak motor is further strained and can also take the motor switch and control board. These parts are also weak links in the transport design. Replacing all 3 items is over $300 in parts cost. Parts still available. This design was originally an OEM project for Radio Shack. They were so popular, Teac was forced to offer them as Teacs. :tresbon:

 

[steerpike2]

This design was originally an OEM project for Radio Shack. They were so popular, Teac was forced to offer them as Teacs.

I believe that was the X3/X3R/X300 line.

The X7 shares the same transport as the X10/X20, but with a shorter chassis.

In a way, that is annoying - the 7" reels are spaced so widely that they overflow the chassis by a large margin. If they had moved the hubs inwards, they could have made a machine only 19" wide even with reels mounted - I suppose you would have bought the X3R if you wanted that narrowness.

Still, its a nice design concept - genuine 3 motor, no nasty belts or clutches for reel drive.

I cleaned the tensioner strings - they are much better now - so I think re-stringing might make them even smoother.

 

[KentTeffeteller]

But it is an upscale relative of that abomination called the X lineup. They really weren't intended to be true Teacs originally. If the capstan motor was better and the motor switch was higher quality, they'd be looked at much more favorably. The best late Teac built transport was their sister make Tascam's BR 20. That's a transport!

 

[steerpike2]

The capstan motor looks - from the outside - pretty much identical to that in my A3440.

The reel motors are adequate for a 7" reel, but they won't give enought torque for 10-1/2 inch reels, and I think these same motors were used in the X10 and X20 and X2000.

All cleaned up, its a cute & pretty 7" plaything, but I'd never have paid big money for it.

Did *Teac* make any substantial machines in the 1980-90 period? I thought the 'A' series was discontinued in favour of the 'X' series, and there doesnt't seem to have been any other option for those wanting to buy a Teac in the 1980s.

I have discovered why it needs to know when the counter reaches 0000 - it triggers the reverse-to-forward autoreverse cycle when in continuous loop mode. The foil sensor only operates in the > direction.

 

[KentTeffeteller]

The Tascam BR 20 was their only substantial offering post 1980 in the transport department. The BR 20 was their Otari competitor. 1/2 track, 7 1/2 IPS/15 IPS only.

 

[steerpike2]

The early X series are odd-looking creatures, with their white faces and grey knobs - appearancewise they don't match the then-current TEAC line up of amps, tuners, turntables, at all. They don't fit into a typical Teac 'hi fi' system, and in none of the brochures I have, are they ever photographed as part of a complete setup.

Even the DBX NR boxes don't really match the machines they work with, in appearance.

Completely the opposite to ReVox, say, who built their A77, A700 & B77 to look 'identical' to the amps and tuners of the same lineup.

I have a leaflet for an X2000-M, a half-track 15ips variant, but still the same basic machine I suppose. I wonder if the capstan motor is the same one for that speed?

 

[jan_stevns]

Teac x-2000m uses another capstan belt than the non-M does - could indicate a larger motorpulley so it could very well be the same motor