BTSs
Active Member
I had my V9 out for its annual service (lots of dust around the house). Opening it up reminded me of a modification I did some 18 months ago.
This mod is for the dreaded cable damage done when the selector sliders seize up after years of neglect.
People seem to use more force than they should resulting in the stainless steel ends of the cable being damaged. In one case I have they totally destroyed the front selector switch as well.
I put this V9 together from two units I picked up cheap. Six cables and only two were usable.
Looked around the shed for a way to repair or replace the damaged stainless bits. Too fine a work for me without spending money on. Then I remembered the cable material from the model days.
Plastic (or what ever) inner and outer cabling used in R/C models (planes in my case).
I have no pics of the process I went through so its going to be bad description.
For the end that goes into the front selector switch the inner was cut down through the centre for 30 mm and half was removed. Leaves a half circle section 30mm long on the end.
This end is then drilled (1 or 1.5 mm drill I think) at the right spacing to match the pins on the rotating switch. A bit of heat is applied (through the suck it and see method) to the end and this is feed into the switch running it back and forward. It took me a couple of goes with the heat but you will end up with forming to the shape needed. Don`t get to carried away with the heat or you will end up stretching it or ruining the holes.
When assembled the outer was cable tied to the tab on the top white plastic insert on the switch.
However had worked on this before had broken off the little metal retainer taps, so the whole thing is now held together with a couple (yellow) cable ties.
For the end that goes to the input selector board, again the inner is split down the middle about 20mm (I think). One hole is drilled in it to locate the metal tab that slides inside the white plastic retainer on the board. This white retainer needs to be drilled out a bit so as the inner cable can slide inside it.
With the outer cover I shaped it to a V to sit neatly in the mouth of the plastic retainer. Again a couple of ties are used to keep the outer in position.
I used another tie to hold the cable to the vertical board to stop it from moving when the switch is moved back and forth.
To help keep the outer cover in position I put a drop of super glue were the black cable ties touch it.
Well its not pretty but it has worked well for about 18 months.
Hope it helps someone.
Tony
This mod is for the dreaded cable damage done when the selector sliders seize up after years of neglect.
People seem to use more force than they should resulting in the stainless steel ends of the cable being damaged. In one case I have they totally destroyed the front selector switch as well.
I put this V9 together from two units I picked up cheap. Six cables and only two were usable.
Looked around the shed for a way to repair or replace the damaged stainless bits. Too fine a work for me without spending money on. Then I remembered the cable material from the model days.
Plastic (or what ever) inner and outer cabling used in R/C models (planes in my case).
I have no pics of the process I went through so its going to be bad description.
For the end that goes into the front selector switch the inner was cut down through the centre for 30 mm and half was removed. Leaves a half circle section 30mm long on the end.
This end is then drilled (1 or 1.5 mm drill I think) at the right spacing to match the pins on the rotating switch. A bit of heat is applied (through the suck it and see method) to the end and this is feed into the switch running it back and forward. It took me a couple of goes with the heat but you will end up with forming to the shape needed. Don`t get to carried away with the heat or you will end up stretching it or ruining the holes.
When assembled the outer was cable tied to the tab on the top white plastic insert on the switch.
However had worked on this before had broken off the little metal retainer taps, so the whole thing is now held together with a couple (yellow) cable ties.
For the end that goes to the input selector board, again the inner is split down the middle about 20mm (I think). One hole is drilled in it to locate the metal tab that slides inside the white plastic retainer on the board. This white retainer needs to be drilled out a bit so as the inner cable can slide inside it.
With the outer cover I shaped it to a V to sit neatly in the mouth of the plastic retainer. Again a couple of ties are used to keep the outer in position.
I used another tie to hold the cable to the vertical board to stop it from moving when the switch is moved back and forth.
To help keep the outer cover in position I put a drop of super glue were the black cable ties touch it.
Well its not pretty but it has worked well for about 18 months.
Hope it helps someone.
Tony