Technics D212, 5210 and maybe D2 elec caps with greenish stuff on the legs

[Synchro-bias]

I was going over changing my diy silver cable, to Mogami 2965, as it has good capacitance. I dont know if it will sound better, but the Mogami seemed to go with with my other Technics turntable. I did consider Van Den Huls Flexicon B4, but not much about it online.

With my D212, i was able some time back get on a good buy Van Den Hul SPC tonearm wire and headshell leads. Its a rough looking table. However the previous owners had it professionally restored, and I got 2 custom lids with it, i settled on the frosted on.

Upon fitting the cable today, i thought since the elec caps were exposed i would look at them under light, and to me it looked like some stuff on the pins, i de-soldered one cap to check as per photo.

I am reluctant to recap, due to the worry it could affect the operation #-o , and i dont have a capacitance meter to check the capacitance. If i had to, Nichicon PW series maybe or Pano FM FR etc. The caps are leaking something, which isnt good

The pcb board has the IC AN66 something and 2 trimpots, some elec caps, etc

So i checked my other Technics turntable SL-5210 and the same thing, a few caps with greenish legs, some of it actually on the board.

Operation of both turntables including the D2, is somethings when place the arm on the record it would lift up and return and stop, and other times the arm would life up and down, this was fixed by spinning the platter when the turntable was off. The auto return is playing up on the 5210. Could this be because of the caps?

As for the D2, to get to the board? it looks like there is quite some work? whereas the other turntables it was easy access. I assume the D2 would have a few caps leaking also

 

[cafe latte]

It looks like the turntable has been damp at some time, the green looks more like corrosion.
Chris

 

[painttoad]

i've noticed more than a few caps in technics gear that had green corroded leads as above. i recently came across one in a yamaha amp. leads corroded, no leaking and cap tested ok. no signs of any of the units being wet.

all were matsushita caps but they were all a lavendar color.

 

[Synchro-bias]

It looks like the turntable has been damp at some time, the green looks more like corrosion.
Chris

Thanks Chris. I took more photos below. I will now go and raid the bin, as i cant find the 2 caps i took out. Yes as per photo below, i cover the turntable and other equipment with the soft plastic sheeting that comes with new tv , etc etc. I noticed one of my amps developed some surface rust. Its an 80s house so, no air con and summers here can be quite humid and wet, this and the covering them with this could cause dampness

i've noticed more than a few caps in technics gear that had green corroded leads as above. i recently came across one in a yamaha amp. leads corroded, no leaking and cap tested ok. no signs of any of the units being wet.

all were matsushita caps but they were all a lavendar color.

Thanks Painttoad ! Yes exactly what i have, they look fine on top, as per photo, just their bases legs one side usually. I may as well clean them up.

Only issues is sometimes upon putting the stylus on the record, it will lift up and return to stop, never happens more than twice, could be from little use

actual in board photos ( a few components around the caps - aid in less air flow)
tops seem to be fine

corrosion of the 3 above caps


plastic soft sheeting i used to cover when not in use

 

[painttoad]

i would still replace them personally.

 

[Synchro-bias]

i would still replace them personally.

maybe so, i rescued them from the bin but unfortunately, some water was in the bag, so couldve got wet. Turntable year makes are 1979 and 82 range. Would i have to do adjustments? could it just be a replace same value etc, as for voltage example 25v, would 50v be excessive?

Mouser has some HEs etc long life, UPM, PW? KL all quite long life 105c vs old 85c

 

[painttoad]

50v would be fine imo but opinions vary. i wouldn't think you would need to make adjustments but it's not here in front of me and i am far from a expert in anything but painting cars

 

[Synchro-bias]

50v would be fine imo but opinions vary. i wouldn't think you would need to make adjustments but it's not here in front of me and i am far from a expert in anything but painting cars

I should get by with the right voltages. I did recap a whole tuner which had leaky caps (had started to damage the board), i got away without doing any adjustments, so in theory,s till the same value and same or near voltage, it should be okay - noticed one trimpot is corroded , and one turntable , has had an unwanted guest, with poop about in the cabinet, i suspect a roach . Talk about paint, i made a bit a mess on my Technics speakers with spray paint, not all even

 

[felix_katze]

Matsushita caps of that era go bad. Not even worth testing. Replace.

You won't need to make any adjustments.

 

[Synchro-bias]

Matsushita caps of that era go bad. Not even worth testing. Replace.

You won't need to make any adjustments.

Thanks Felix, I guess the other caps i rescued from the bin would be toast anyway after being in the water. Any nichicon with 105c and good life would be good.

 

[felix_katze]

I use nichicons almost exclusively, though that has a lot to do with proximity to the factory, and I find the modern ones, even just the general purpose cheap caps all test amazingly close to spec.

I'm not sure what you pay but I sometimes get bags of a hundred for about $5. Not worth mucking around with 40+year old components that have exceeded their hourly lifespan rating by many, many times over.

 

[Synchro-bias]

I use nichicons almost exclusively, though that has a lot to do with proximity to the factory, and I find the modern ones, even just the general purpose cheap caps all test amazingly close to spec.

I'm not sure what you pay but I sometimes get bags of a hundred for about $5. Not worth mucking around with 40+year old components that have exceeded their hourly lifespan rating by many, many times over.

Thats good to know they test to spec,Felix as i was looking at Rubycon, but no many use them here on AK. I like the Nichicon also. That is cheap for 5$. Mouser and Digikey are reasonable, 40 - 90 cents. I dread the D2 turntable i think i have to take it all apart to get to the board. The other 2 Technics turntables are easy access. I'll check their range, i usually like PW, PM PS etc etc

 

[felix_katze]

My local shops mostly stock nichicon, rubycon, sanyo, TKK, Panasonic, and Elna. But mostly nichicon and TKK. You'll be ok with any of those. Mouser is expensive when buying singles, watch the price tumble even for 10s. To my mind, replacing caps is a cheap way to help protect transistors and IC`s that are WAY more expensive, if not impossible to source.

 

[HPMguy]

I haven't found many bad caps in Technics turntables so far, but given that they are 40 years old by and large, I replace them anyway. Film caps for anything under 4.7uF EXCEPT those on the motor board for DC servo tables -- I've had them run half speed if I put films there and return to proper function with electrolytics. No idea why.

Any modern manufacture cap from a reputable maker will be better than the ones in there, new caps are better anyway, and are not 40 years old.

 

[Synchro-bias]

My local shops mostly stock nichicon, rubycon, sanyo, TKK, Panasonic, and Elna. But mostly nichicon and TKK. You'll be ok with any of those. Mouser is expensive when buying singles, watch the price tumble even for 10s. To my mind, replacing caps is a cheap way to help protect transistors and IC`s that are WAY more expensive, if not impossible to source.

I noticed the price drop on the larger main caps lately. My NEC cd player had TKKs, replaced most due to leaking on the board in the power supply. I will check Digikey and choose the cheaper of the two. TKK has an audio range now, since i read elna has ceased production of simics. I was thinking the same about the ICs, which are almost impossible to find, and buying another TT, they are not cheap these days, esp here in Australia. Though i saw on gumtree , down in NSW, a D2 for free, rough but working .... wish i was local to snap it up

I haven't found many bad caps in Technics turntables so far, but given that they are 40 years old by and large, I replace them anyway. Film caps for anything under 4.7uF EXCEPT those on the motor board for DC servo tables -- I've had them run half speed if I put films there and return to proper function with electrolytics. No idea why.

Any modern manufacture cap from a reputable maker will be better than the ones in there, new caps are better anyway, and are not 40 years old.

It could have been corrosion as Chris mentioned, but as you say the age of them and the risk to it somehow damaging the ICs. That is strange, all my tables are direct drive, so that will be fine, no idea either why the DC servos behave like that.

I am wondering about the D2, it would require a lot more to remove its board, apart from few little issues -it seems to be fine

 

[felix_katze]

If you are ever stuck, it is only about a week to post to Oz now that pandemic has subsided, it was taking MONTHS to get simple things through when the airlines stopped. And you can BPAY/AnyPay direct to my Oz acct. Something to keep in mind. If you list what you need, I could check what I have here.

 

[HPMguy]

It was very strange. Replaced all the diodes on a Panasonic SL-15N (which is identical to a Technics SL-3) and it ran half speed until I replaced those two caps across the motor with electrolytics instead of film. Must need the polarity or something, I'm not an EE!

Have not seen any other issues with replacing electrolytic caps with film so far.

 

[Synchro-bias]

If you are ever stuck, it is only about a week to post to Oz now that pandemic has subsided, it was taking MONTHS to get simple things through when the airlines stopped. And you can BPAY/AnyPay direct to my Oz acct. Something to keep in mind. If you list what you need, I could check what I have here.

Thanks so much for the offer Felix. I was looking at a place called wakamatsu, which has a few NOS transistors as my 3 big amps are down atm, Technics SU-V8s and V8X. I was curious about how long the mail took from Japan. I will definitely consider this once i sort the amps. They test fine the transitors, but maybe in circuit they may not.

It was very strange. Replaced all the diodes on a Panasonic SL-15N (which is identical to a Technics SL-3) and it ran half speed until I replaced those two caps across the motor with electrolytics instead of film. Must need the polarity or something, I'm not an EE!

Have not seen any other issues with replacing electrolytic caps with film so far.

I think so HPMguy, maybe the polarity is what they need, that seems likely, as what else would cause them to behave like that. I thinking of leaving the D2 and worry about caps for the easy access turntables - it tracks well and the seed is okay, though it didnt like being upside down, as intitially the speed was all out but fixed itself before the first track finished on the LP.

 

[JP]

I was going over changing my diy silver cable, to Mogami 2965, as it has good capacitance. I dont know if it will sound better, but the Mogami seemed to go with with my other Technics turntable. I did consider Van Den Huls Flexicon B4, but not much about it online.

With my D212, i was able some time back get on a good buy Van Den Hul SPC tonearm wire and headshell leads. Its a rough looking table. However the previous owners had it professionally restored, and I got 2 custom lids with it, i settled on the frosted on.

Upon fitting the cable today, i thought since the elec caps were exposed i would look at them under light, and to me it looked like some stuff on the pins, i de-soldered one cap to check as per photo.

I am reluctant to recap, due to the worry it could affect the operation #-o , and i dont have a capacitance meter to check the capacitance. If i had to, Nichicon PW series maybe or Pano FM FR etc. The caps are leaking something, which isnt good

The pcb board has the IC AN66 something and 2 trimpots, some elec caps, etc

So i checked my other Technics turntable SL-5210 and the same thing, a few caps with greenish legs, some of it actually on the board.

Operation of both turntables including the D2, is somethings when place the arm on the record it would lift up and return and stop, and other times the arm would life up and down, this was fixed by spinning the platter when the turntable was off. The auto return is playing up on the 5210. Could this be because of the caps?

As for the D2, to get to the board? it looks like there is quite some work? whereas the other turntables it was easy access. I assume the D2 would have a few caps leaking also

View attachment 2943624

Came across this post looking for something else. For future reference, the corrosion is caused by electrolyte leaking at the lead seal - those Matsu caps are infamous for it.

 

[Synchro-bias]

Came across this post looking for something else. For future reference, the corrosion is caused by electrolyte leaking at the lead seal - those Matsu caps are infamous for it.

Thanks JP, yes its certain values i find as a have a few Technics gear, and its usually those values I had the same issue in tuners. I think i did the right thing changing them, then. I could not access the D2, but as long its functions i;ll leave it for now, it needs a complete removal to access the pcb.