Technics Missaligned Headshell & Cartridge???

[the_nines]

I dig, totally.

The man has said that the head-shell moves after the collar is tightened to the arm. (let's go back to post #10 and read again).

So, until he finds out why the head-shell is moving, he can't align anything. It's not an issue with the cartridge looking out of center because of any particular alignment, the issue is that the head-shell moves when it's not supposed to.

Before dismantling the arm, I suggested he gets a hold of another head-shell to see if the problem persists. If it does persist, he can then tackle the socket and eventually the arm itself.

Peace.

Cheers.

 

[needforspeed]

Have'nt used your headshell, But with that plate underneath, Not sure you would get the offset, The overhang gauge require's. Get a couple 2 slot HS.

 

[majick47]

Again stick with the original OEM factory Technics parts and instructions as in the SL-1300 owners manual, overhang gauge and headshell, disregard everything else.

 

[tcss]

There have been two times I had a headshell that moved after tightening. One was a loose barrel in the headshell. The other was when the tonearn nut was tight, the headshell was not pulled up tight, the washer was not squished against the tonearm.

The type of headshell in the first post is a little easier to align a cart that the other Technics headshell pictured in this thread. To clarify from an earlier post, I use both types of these headshells on my Technics table.

 

[Montycat]

The headshell he posted a pic of is the correct original one for the original 1300. It will work just fine and "look right" using the 52mm method.

There is the possibility the headshell has become loose where the silver part meets the black body of the headshell. That's a swaged or press fit and, while it is rare, I have seen some shells get loose there.

 

[KLund1]

I purchased a AT headshell from work.
https://frys.com/product/8534219?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG
And it is much tighter in the arm. The left right movement is nearly gone. I'd estimate a .1mm movement. The clockwise, counterclockwise moveement, is reduced but still present.
From this, I think that in the TT's past life someone may have tried to twist the headshell in the arm. I would need to take the nut off the arm and look at the grove the headshell notch slides in, to see if there is any damage. I will use a small screwdriver and remove the two small nuts under the arm and see what I can see.
I'll let you know.

 

[tcss]

[QUOTE="KLund1, post: 11131373, member: 111532" The clockwise, counterclockwise moveement, is reduced but still present.[/QUOTE]

Good to see have have a better fitting barrel. It's ok to have this type of movement and sometimes needed to set azimuth.

 

[Bob_in_OKC]

I’ve seen it written in forums many times that Technics alignment is Stevenson. However, the specs for the SL-1300 as shown at the vinylengine site show overhang of 15 mm and offset angle of 21.5 degrees. Using the calculator on that same site, I’m getting an offset angle of 22.6 degrees. Overhang also doesn’t match. It’s closer to 16 mm. By that math, I would doubt that the cartridge should be square in the headshell when aligning to Stevenson.

 

[MacNoob]

I’ve seen it written in forums many times that Technics alignment is Stevenson. However, the specs for the SL-1300 as shown at the vinylengine site show overhang of 15 mm and offset angle of 21.5 degrees. Using the calculator on that same site, I’m getting an offset angle of 22.6 degrees. Overhang also doesn’t match. It’s closer to 16 mm. By that math, I would doubt that the cartridge should be square in the headshell when aligning to Stevenson.

my own opinion - based on correlating what many people have said since I don't have the skills to figure it out for myself - is that the Technics alignment created by the 52mm stylus gauge is something close-to-but-not-quite Stevenson.

I think people get too dedicated to the idea that it must be "exactly Stevenson" or "exactly Lofgren" or whatever to be correct, when there is a whole range of settings that are ALL just compromises of the unobtainable perfect alignment. Stevenson, Baerwald, Lofgren are all just names for specific compromise alignments that have different characteristics.

 

[Bob_in_OKC]

my own opinion - based on correlating what many people have said since I don't have the skills to figure it out for myself - is that the Technics alignment created by the 52mm stylus gauge is something close-to-but-not-quite Stevenson.

I think people get too dedicated to the idea that it must be "exactly Stevenson" or "exactly Lofgren" or whatever to be correct, when there is a whole range of settings that are ALL just compromises of the unobtainable perfect alignment. Stevenson, Baerwald, Lofgren are all just names for specific compromise alignments that have different characteristics.

Agreed. The Technics alignment is no less correct than Stevenson. It’s more a question of whether you want the lowest error on average, the lowest error on the tightest radius, or whatever aim is achievable with tonearm geometry. The only truly correct geometry would be tangential all the time.

 

[cgutz]

Good to see have have a better fitting barrel. It's ok to have this type of movement and sometimes needed to set azimuth.

I have a Kenwood headshell that does this same thing. Whenever I reattach it, I have to "adjust" the azimuth as there is a very slight "rotational" play in the bayonet mount - enough to knock azimuth out of whack.

 

[KLund1]

Ok, got the Technics 52mm setting unit. I did the adjustments by eyeball. Tip of stylus just at the end. Also cart, and stylus tip seem to be centered (azimuth, right left?). Is eyeballing it ok?
Tip, disconnect wires to do this, or the spring in the wires will be irritating.
Ok now the headshell seems to be firmly in place in the tonearm. No twisting in any direction. So I think I'm ok here. Is there something else to check?

Next leveling the TT?
I have used a bubble level, 2" x .5".x.5". The TT is level on the X/Y as measured on the TT chase near the tonearm. I had to use granite counter-top shims under three(3) legs to level. Not the most 'professional' method but I do not know of another. Suggestions?
When I put the level on the platter with the Technics mat, it is not level. Yes I know about the different levels of the several sets of ring sets molded into the mat. Each set of rings give a different level on the X/Y. If I measure diagonally along the path of the stylus, all is level until the innermost ring set. All measurements are the same when I rotate the platter to different positions under where the tonearm will travel. Removing the mat gives similar readings but all just a bit closer to level. When I measured opposite where the tonearm first sits, the platter is way off center in all directions. Yes the platter is firmly pressing down into position. I have not tested on an LP. I do not have an LP I trust to say is 'level'. This is all very confusing. Level in one place should be level in all places. The chase dose not look warped, nor the platter. So why the different readings?
One thing to note, all readings are inside the 'level' lines on the bubble level, but not centered.
So what is the next move.

 

[Montycat]

It's good enough. You are done.

 

[the_nines]

Looks like you've taken care of the over-hang since you used the proper alignment tool for the head-shell.

In case you're curious, a few checks:

The platter should be straight (not warped). If you want to check, remove the platter and place it on a flat surface (sheet of glass, mirror, or even a granite kitchen counter-top. As long as the surface is flat. With your finger, tap the platter along the outer edge, starting from 12 o'clock 1, 2, 3 o'clock and so on until you come back full circle. The platter should not move.

To test for platter being level, place your level at various points on the rubber mat. I start by checking four places and finish by spinning the platter very slowly and looking at the level at points in-between.

A buble-level reading within the circle is good enough:

An easy test for the shaft (spindle) being straight and the platter sitting properly on the spindle at 90 degrees to base; start the platter spinning and look at it head-on, front view. There should be no movement up/down on the edge (rim) of the platter.

For azimuth, place a mirror flat on the rubber mat. Look at the cartridge head-on. This is what you should see:

Enjoy your records.

 

[KLund1]

I did all above. All good! Thanks!!
Played a couple albums they they sound great.
Again Many thanks to everyone who helped me on this process. It was fun and I learned quite a lot.

 

[Jonny Ramone]

Like the mirror. I'll have to do that.