Technics SL-10 help please

[chilly0013]

Hi all,

I have recently purchased 2 Technics SL-10, both are in great shape and work good, but I wanted to make sure they were as close to factory settings as possible. SO I cleaned everything, re-lubed all the parts and followed the instructions in the Service manual except the 1mm pitch record adjustment. I will be keeping one of these and selling the other, so I want to make sure they are as perfect as can be.

So I have some questions:

step 1: done I have aligned the tonearm to the housing
step 2: when I move the tonearm all the way to the right, I get 4.7 volts, not 7.6 (is this an issue?)
step 3: when I move the tonearm all the way to the left, I get .3 volts
step 4: based on the above results the calculation I get is 2.6 volt, so I adjust the 1.5mm socket screw to 2.6
step 5: adjust R449 to .72 volts
step 6: since I do not have the 1mm pitch record, I do have an album with a lead out groove at 5mm, but do not know what to adjust R447 to, currently I have it at .5 volt

SO things I have noticed:

the tonearm is not aligned with the illuminated pointer, it is about 2-2.5 mm to the right when playing a record, If I adjust the alignment (step 1) then it is not parallel with the tonearm housing. Is this a problem with it being lagging behind the pointer?

When the tonearm lifts at the end of the record, it does not settle back in the V-groove, so when you play the next side it actually starts a few grooves into the song, then it settles in the v-groove. If I pay attention I physically nudge the tonearm to the v-groove when I flip sides. Is there a way to fix this?

It seems that the above 2 things maybe related to the bearings of the tonearm, but there are no instructions on fixing that.

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance for all your help

-kev

 

[SoundsAlike]

I have repaired and sold a half dozen of these tables -- IMO, not worth the effort you're putting into it. Listen carefully when it's playing. I haven't had one that didn't make a "thud" or knocking sound as the motor activates in bursts.

 

[chilly0013]

While I do appreciate your opinion, I have not heard the thud or knock, Not to say it won't happen. But this will be my 4th SL-10, and none of them have ever made the thud sound. Since you have had a few, do you have any suggestions on why questions?

 

[revox-b77]

I am with you mine is silent and one hell of a nice table with the freshly re-tipped 310mc.

 

[Hugo65]

I have three SL 10s and haven't heard any "thuds" from any of them, either. Excellent players. I've never had to mess with anything on them, except the tonearm belts. I don't know what advice to give you, but, if it were me, I'd just align the tonearm with the housing and see how it goes, since, in my humble opinion, having them as close to factory settings as possible would imply full recapping, as capacitor performance deteriorates over time. Just my 2 cents.

 

[SoundsAlike]

While I do appreciate your opinion, I have not heard the thud or knock, Not to say it won't happen. But this will be my 4th SL-10, and none of them have ever made the thud sound. Since you have had a few, do you have any suggestions on why questions?

I suggest posting on vinylengine's forum where there is more technical discussions especially on Technics turntables. I'd be interested in hearing how you carefully removed the top dustcover to access the adjustment screws - that thin plastic piece is fragile and in the service manual it instructs you to pry it up without regard to how fragile the black coating is..

But i'm telling you.. put on a quiet record and then put your ear to the lid of the table and you'll hear the noise of the tonearm motor. You don't even need a revealing system to hear it come through the speakers. I was once passionate about these turntables but they're noisy. I've used dry lubes and wet lubes with no improvement -- if you want my theory on it I think the old oil was designed as a lubricant and a dampener -- more like a gel like substance than oil.

They're cool tables though I understand the appeal to them. But the thud sound is well documented and difficult to ignore once it's apparent.

 

[chilly0013]

@SoundsAlike, Thanks, I did also post this at VinylEngine, so hopefully they can help there. As for that pesky plastic strip, I use a hair dryer to warm up the adhesive, then use a plastic screwdriver to pry it up. No issues with the black coming off. The first time I did not use a hairdryer, and almost all the black peeled off (grrrr). to fix it though I just cleaned all of the adhesive and black off, attached the face of the plastic strip to painters tape, and sprayed a new layer of black primer on the back of the strip. Then use a double stick type tape ( https://www.joann.com/allary-5-16inx275in-scrapbook-tape-runner-repositional/2361632.html#start=1 ) from the craft store and put little dashes of adhesive on the strip to stick it back down. Because I paint the back of a clear strip, it still looks glossy.

Like you said, I have read the stories on the thump problem, and it seems that some are more pronounced than others, I think your theory holds some water. I do love the tables, but I also am a big fan of Sony's Biotrace models, Denon's big tables especially the DP-47f, and the big Kenwood's. I do wish I had my Dad's system from the early eighties, Pioneer Spec system with PL-630 turntable.

Thanks again for your time I really appreciate it. I am a bit jealous of the aluminum stands you have for your SL-15. I use this for my SL-10:
( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079NF8Y68/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) It is well built and powder coated aluminum, adjustable, and it also fits between the feet.

 

[SoundsAlike]

@SoundsAlike, Thanks, I did also post this at VinylEngine, so hopefully they can help there. As for that pesky plastic strip, I use a hair dryer to warm up the adhesive, then use a plastic screwdriver to pry it up. No issues with the black coming off. The first time I did not use a hairdryer, and almost all the black peeled off (grrrr). to fix it though I just cleaned all of the adhesive and black off, attached the face of the plastic strip to painters tape, and sprayed a new layer of black primer on the back of the strip. Then use a double stick type tape ( https://www.joann.com/allary-5-16inx275in-scrapbook-tape-runner-repositional/2361632.html#start=1 ) from the craft store and put little dashes of adhesive on the strip to stick it back down. Because I paint the back of a clear strip, it still looks glossy.

Can you send me some pics of the finished repair on that black plastic piece? Does it look nice?

I have been stumped with coming up with a workable solution because the shade of black is difficult to match. I found that regular old 1/4" reel to reel tape is a perfect match but it needs to be painted, and then somehow adhered to the clear plastic strip.

Your repairs sounds very interesting and doable

Also neat hack with that laptop stand.

 

[chilly0013]

Actually, I have a plastic strip that I need to fix, hopefully this weekend. Give me a few days, and I'll try and document what I do. A before, during and after picture, if that works, I will also get a list of materials I use.

Sound good?

 

[chilly0013]

@SoundsAlike
Sorry this took me a few extra days to get this to you.

Damaged plastic piece
Close up, Left is the repainted one, Right is an original one
Left is repainted, right is an original

SO, my method:

1. Clean off all of the old adhesive with goof off, or other cleaner, I also used a bit of Lacquer Thinner (but not needed)
2. Scuffed up the adhesive side (bottom side) with a scothbright pad
3. Attach the plastic top side down onto a piece of painters tape, and attache it to the table
4. Paint the bottom with a black primer I used an airbrush and Vallejo Black primer
5. Apply little squares of double sided tape (not shown)
6. Apply plastic strip to turntable. (not shown, but will take a picture tonight)

Things I learned this go round, I should have removed ALL of the old paint, and started from clean plastic.
Maybe use a brand new piece of Plastic, looks like 1.5mm thick clear plastic styrene

Let me know if you need more info or better pictures

 

[AdamAnt316]

I have a SL-10, and while I don't have the original EPC-310MC cartridge to go with it (currently using an Audio-Technica AT-LS450/LT), it still does a nice job, though it's missing some of the rubber feet. The only time I've heard tonearm noise (in the speaker) is when it reaches the lead-out groove, right before the auto-return kicks in. Anyway, here's a picture of my SL-10:

 

[Asmodeus2112]

@SoundsAlike
Sorry this took me a few extra days to get this to you.

View attachment 1242741 Damaged plastic piece
View attachment 1242742 Close up, Left is the repainted one, Right is an original one
View attachment 1242745 Left is repainted, right is an original

SO, my method:

1. Clean off all of the old adhesive with goof off, or other cleaner, I also used a bit of Lacquer Thinner (but not needed)
2. Scuffed up the adhesive side (bottom side) with a scothbright pad
3. Attach the plastic top side down onto a piece of painters tape, and attache it to the table
4. Paint the bottom with a black primer I used an airbrush and Vallejo Black primer
5. Apply little squares of double sided tape (not shown)
6. Apply plastic strip to turntable. (not shown, but will take a picture tonight)

Things I learned this go round, I should have removed ALL of the old paint, and started from clean plastic.
Maybe use a brand new piece of Plastic, looks like 1.5mm thick clear plastic styrene

Let me know if you need more info or better pictures

This is an old thread, but thank you for this. I just learned the hard way that the black on that strip is very delicate. I am going to try paining the bottom side. If you are still active, I would live any advice you may have learned in the last few years about this.

 

[jamesc760]

I have two (2) SL-10's because I liked the first one so much and wanted a backup in case something goes bad. Anyway, I have not heard these "thump" noises that others are talking about--the only time I hear the motor noise is when it reaches the end of a record and the motor's at its maximum power moving the tonearm over (just before the muting circuit kicks in).

Those who have the earlier ones are prone to the "thumping noise," if you have later ones, Technics had fixed the issue. There was a technical bulletin that addressed the problem.

I need to fix the plastic cover strip (6mm x 29.9mm) like chilli0013 did above.

One question: when I disassembled the tonearm lift mechanism to re-coat with 500k differential oil, a white plastic washer fell out, where does it go?