Technics SL-10 parts needed.

[Lance G]

I am looking for some lid catch parts for a Technics SL-10 linear tracking turntable;

If necessary please refer to illustration/s from the service manual (this is readily available on-line if you don't have access to one).

Item 42; Knob, Lock, SFKTC10-06. (I need one off).

Item 44; Guide, Lock, SFUMC10-28. (I need two off).

If anyone is breaking a table or has any other (polite !) suggestions, please let me know !

Thanks, in anticipation !

 

[MRL_Audio]

Why not provide pictures of what you are looking for and only post once. I see the same post is here twice. Bordering on a WTB thread here as well.

 

[Lance G]

Apologies, new to this copy and paste/attach business (and largely new to the forum). Also apologies for double post, could not see an option to delete the first post or amend thread title. Did not want to reproduce the whole manual. Attached photo's any good ? Probably bordering on WTF ?!

 

[Lance G]

 

[MRL_Audio]

That helps a lot to determine what part your after. Hopefully someone has a parts deck. I rarely see a parts deck on eBay. Most posted are functional or at least advertised that way. Looks like a potential solution for a 3D printing project as well. Good luck, its a great deck and worth the time to save. Did yours come with the 310CM cartridge?

 

[Lance G]

That helps a lot to determine what part your after. Hopefully someone has a parts deck. I rarely see a parts deck on eBay. Most posted are functional or at least advertised that way. Looks like a potential solution for a 3D printing project as well. Good luck, its a great deck and worth the time to save. Did yours come with the 310CM cartridge?

Thanks for the reply, yes, it has the 310MC cartridge. I was/am really very pleasantly surprised at the sound produced. I have a couple of Linn Sondek, admittedly fitted with not particularly high spec' arms or cartridges, but the Technics with the 310MC seems so much more pleasing and detailed to my ear, and a lot less faffing about ! That's not to knock the Sondek. IMHO produced sounds are subjective, we are all largely different in our perceptions. But it is rather good ! The broken clips are the only issue with what is a both cosmetically and operationally a very nice deck.

I do have the broken parts, and may be able to repair/reinforce/glue. Part of the issue is knowing which adhesive to use as there are so many different types of plastic and finding a suitable adhesive for same. if anyone has any successful experience of gluing Technics black plastic please let me know. The 3D option may be onerous for me, also the components are small and would need to be sturdy as the catches appear to be subject to a reasonable level of leverage force.

I would consider a parts deck, or parts of a parts deck, as long as my primary shopping list was satisfied.

Anyway, that's probably enough of my ramblings. Come on folk's what have you got that you can offer me !

Thanks for the well wishes.

 

[benricci]

Come on folk's what have you got that you can offer me !

I think you might need to temper your expectations -- these are random little parts that no one is likely to have just hanging around in a parts bin somewhere, waiting for the owner of this particular make and model to need them. It's not like these are generic knobs or capacitors that can just be sourced from anywhere.

Your best bet might be a little Loctite plastic bond. It's like $5 at any good hardware store.

 

[Lance G]

I think you might need to temper your expectations -- these are random little parts that no one is likely to have just hanging around in a parts bin somewhere, waiting for the owner of this particular make and model to need them. It's not like these are generic knobs or capacitors that can just be sourced from anywhere.

Your best bet might be a little Loctite plastic bond. It's like $5 at any good hardware store.

My expectations are low, biased more towards a dreamlike, delusional state ! But if I don't ask, etc. I was hoping someone may be parting a deck.

Hopefully someone will eventually come up with parts, in the meantime I will likely try the adhesive route, perhaps with a small drilled and pinned repair of the latch if possible. Thanks for the Loctite suggestion. I have tried JB plastic weld in the past with some success, but there is no guarantee as to efficacy until the point of no return. Being small parts won't allow too many failed attempts. Thanks.

 

[MRL_Audio]

Loctite will never hold this. If you go this route JB or another plastic epoxy is your best bet but the amount of surface you are trying to glue is relatively small and unfortunately more than likely will not hold. In addition trying that may create more problems down the road if you do come across the needed parts. Good luck here. I hate when something becomes somewhat unusable or because of a small relatively cheap part.

 

[best-groove]

Articolo 44; Guida, blocco, SFUMC10-28

they are delicate parts that can break and this happens when you close the lid by pressing on it; the correct operation is to press the side release keys also when closing the lid as well as opening.
This ensures that the guide blocks do not break.
I saw that you have the parts, glue them with a two-component (It is forbidden to use cyanoacrylate glue, it does not work) glue and let them dry for one hour in the oven at 70-80° celsius the two glued parts will be sturdy.
Do not over do it and do not overdo it with the glue otherwise you have to remove material to adapt the guide blocks to the lid.
I repaired the guide blocks in this way to several friends who broke them.

 

[Lance G]

Thanks for contributors suggestions.
Update on original posting.
I could not find replacement parts, which I had anticipated, but thought I would try.
Therefore to repair I used; Loctite super glue all plastics. Make sure it's the two pack version with the activator which you apply first. Superglue won't work. Neither will JB weld PlasticWeld. I know this because I tried !
Seems to be holding up well to date. I did micro drill and use a cut off clothing pin to glue and pin the latches for extra strength. The guides were just glued.
DON'T apply the activator to the item followed up by the glue straight from the tube. The activator will transfer to the glue tube and set the contents of the whole tube. The manufacturers very likely love you to do this !
Instead apply the activator to the item and then squirt a little glue onto, perhaps, a piece of card, and apply the glue with, again perhaps, a cocktail stick or similar.
This way you keep the activator and glue away from one another ! Two months later and my remaining glue is still useable.
All just from my own experience. No guarantees if you try this yourself !
Hope this helps someone.

 

[MRL_Audio]

Got some pics?

 

[Lance G]

Got some pics?

Only of the post repaired deck, so nothing to see that is visible as the repaired areas of the parts are now concealed. It just looks like any other complete SL10 deck.
Therefore the repair/s are invisible. Apologies for the poor, quickly taken pictures. But you should get some idea of the result.

 

[Hugo65]

Nice work. I always press the latch buttons when closing the lid of my SL-10, and only release them with the lid completely shut. I mean I never let them snap closed. I got so used to doing this, it's now an "automatic" thing.

 

[Lance G]

I have just considered that I have probably not had much sympathy regarding my original post. In retrospect I feel I must say that I did not cause the original damage !
I bought the deck used and although the deck was packaged extremely well by the seller the damage was caused in transit. It was packed in an oversize box with LOTS of bubble wrap and padding. I could not in all fairness fault the sellers surrounding packaging efforts.

If anyone is ever risking the shipping of one of these, I suggest the lid be secured really well to avoid ANY lateral movement in relation to the base. Perhaps by securely taping all the way around the perimeter AND also over the top and around the whole thing. Plus the transit lock of course. A little IPA might be used to remove any residual tape glue by the recipient ? The sensible use of a suitable, easily removable tape should go without saying.

Thanks for your suggestions regarding continued use, I have already adopted the kid glove approach of pressing the latch/es when closing !

 

[MRL_Audio]

^^^ I think your wrong here. I have sympathy for the buyer any time a table is damaged in transit. My interest in your repair is that I have one of these tables and the latches are not getting stronger over time but weaker and I expect that at some time I will have to make the same repair. It's better if they never break but things happen. Your repair seems to be working well and from the pictures is not even noticeable so congrats.

 

[Hugo65]

Nice work. I always press the latch buttons when closing the lid of my SL-10, and only release them with the lid completely shut. I mean I never let them snap closed. I got so used to doing this, it's now an "automatic" thing.

I apologize if, by any chance, it was my post that made you feel this way, sincerely. I just can't help passing forward this notion about pressing the latch buttons when closing the lid. I have 3 of these machines, all latches intact. One of them is side by side with my Thorens TD 125 Mk II, and, to my aging ears, both sound equally fantastic. Good to see your unit is fixed. You're in for many years of enjoyment with that deck.
Cheers.

 

[Hugo65]

I have just considered that I have probably not had much sympathy regarding my original post. In retrospect I feel I must say that I did not cause the original damage !
I bought the deck used and although the deck was packaged extremely well by the seller the damage was caused in transit. It was packed in an oversize box with LOTS of bubble wrap and padding. I could not in all fairness fault the sellers surrounding packaging efforts.

If anyone is ever risking the shipping of one of these, I suggest the lid be secured really well to avoid ANY lateral movement in relation to the base. Perhaps by securely taping all the way around the perimeter AND also over the top and around the whole thing. Plus the transit lock of course. A little IPA might be used to remove any residual tape glue by the recipient ? The sensible use of a suitable, easily removable tape should go without saying.

Thanks for your suggestions regarding continued use, I have already adopted the kid glove approach of pressing the latch/es when closing !

So sorry, this is the post I meant to quote...

 

[Lance G]

Absolutely no reason for anyone to apologise for anything ! I value all comments, and will just be pleased if I potentially help anyone else with this problem.

I simply considered that after my initial post people perhaps thought I was negligent enough to damage the catches myself, then they may potentially have been less likely to come forward with parts or solutions.

Thanks for the gratefully received congrats, and apology definitely not required !

Remain well, and enjoy the music !

 

[Luis.correia]

Hi. Bringing this back to life. I need to procure the Sl-10 top glass. Or the entire top lid. But I just really need a glass in good acceptable condition. If anyone has one and would like to part with it please let me know. The one on this photo is actually ok. Is for a second Sl-10 I have and it’s cracked. Thanks