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Technics SL 10 tonearm wire: replacement source?

birchoak

Hi-Fi Nut
Hello all!

OK, so I got a Technics SL 10 from that auction site. It was in very good cosmetic condition but the right channel would not play at proper volume in "STEREO" mode until the tonearm was about halfway into playing the record. The seller was very up front about the problem so this wasn't a surprise. I know that this is an excellent tt and worth some blood, sweat and tears so I donned my proverbial surgical gloves and attempted to fix it.

I thought perhaps the RCA interconnects were faulty so I swapped in a pair that I knew were working. Still, extremely low volume sound in right channel when in "STEREO" mode. In "MONO" full sound, both channels.

Next, I swapped P-mount cartridges. Nope, not the problem as said cartridge worked perfect in another tt earlier that day.

Next, juxtapose RCA interconnects. Problem switched to opposite speaker; methinks problem is in SL 10 for sure. I opened up the base assembly, perused solder points and wire looms, especially near RCA jacks, touched up a few dull solder spots and re-assembled. No difference in sound, original problem still remained.

I decided this must a cracked/pinched/whatever tonearm cable and that at the halfway point in the tonearms's journey across the record said cable was probably being positioned in such a way as to make a decent connection to produce stereo in the right channel. Sure enough, there was electrician's tape around a sizeable nick in the tonearm cable's outer sheathing.

Now what? If you're me and there's no one you know of to perform this work, you try to do it yourself. I clipped the wires at the nick in the insulation, stripped each of the five wires back (an absolute nightmare; Gods is that wire thin!), then soldered them back together with five pieces of teeny tiny heat shrink tubing (even more of a nightmare). The outer cable shielding I wove together as best I could, then slid the final, large piece of heat shrink tubing over the whole mess, which tightly bound the shielding together, and shrank that.

It looks good, it looks neat, and now there is no sound whatsoever from the tt
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Perhaps this is not a good way to fix tonearm wire and maybe this wire should not have any splices along it's length, nor any heat shrink tubing that would reduce it's flexibility? While it's possible one of the wires may have not gotten soldered together 100%, the complete lack of sound has me baffled. To clarify, this is not the super-short run of tonearm wire in the arm itself but the comparatively long run looping back from the tonearm and traversing the right rear hinge to plunge into the 5-pin loom at the pcb board in the SL 10's base.

Fellow SL 10 enthusiasts, where I can find this holy grail of tonearm wire? It is a fine, supple Hitachi 5-pin wire with shielding and I cannot find anything like it so far on the net. Though lacking feet, this is a clean table and has obviously been looked after. It is worth the effort, I feel. When it was, ah, working, the sound was outstanding even with a $30 Pickering P-mount cartridge--solid, deep, authoritative.

I thank you ahead of time for any light you may shed on this conundrum.
 
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Thread resurrection because I'm having the same issue. My SL-10 isn't playing on one side. I ended up discovering that the one of the tonearm wires didn't have continuity from the tonearm to the plug on the board under the platter. I traced to this area.
1790824274629.png

There's a crack from years of flexing as the tonearm travelled that only affected the blue wire inside.
1790824413543.png

I tried for hours to find a workaround, but none of my "repairs" would maintain continuity throughout the entire travel of the tonearm. So I'm in need of something like this, part #107 in the service manual.
1790824696441.png

I don't expect to find the exact part. I'd like to find 2' or more of the 5 wire twisted and shielded cable and I'll make it work. Ideas or other known workarounds?
 
Mogami 2739
Hard to find in short chunks except the UK bay with associated tariffs.

Maybe Cardas 4x33Ga with shield could be found in North America.

Replace the wire on any connector the table has.
 
How are you repairing it? If you cut the outer jacket and shield open with an exacto, cut the blue wire at the break, test continuity from each end, solder the ends together using an extra piece of wire and heat shrink it, that should do the trick.
 
How are you repairing it? If you cut the outer jacket and shield open with an exacto, cut the blue wire at the break, test continuity from each end, solder the ends together using an extra piece of wire and heat shrink it, that should do the trick.
This was my thought too, but it was difficult to find the spot because the break was entirely inside and I couldn't see it. I kept stripping and stripping and never found it
 
Maybe Cardas 4x33Ga with shield could be found in North America.
I will check this out. Thank you

Iirc, the user in the below post removed the connector entirely and soldered new wire direct to the board. I think further in, he replaced the wires with silver cables and explains both the issues he ran into their and solutions: https://audiokarma.org/forums/threads/technics-sl-10-restoration-and-setup.725197/post-9790062
Excellent info. Thanks for the link!
 
Hey @WSideWitness, I have a couple questions. Looking at that picture, at the plug, I indeed see 5 wires. Assuming one, the black, is ground, the other four being blue, white, yellow and red. If this is correct, those are likely the positive and negative wires for the left and right channels. Most often, I've seen white (L ch. pos.), blue (L ch. neg.), red (R ch. pos.) and green (R. ch. neg. and in this case it seems to be yellow?).

If that is correct, then might you have some Apple earbuds lying around, or actually earbuds of any reputable company? If you cannibalize them, taking the wires, you will have a loom of the correct gage wire in the form of copper litz for a whole lot less $$$ and immediately available! I learned about this here on AK in another thread about tonearm re-wiring and decided to try it. Earbuds don't work for me, odd shaped ears I suppose, so I took some Apple earbuds and used those wires to re-wire my Nottingham Analogue Studios Spacearm, which originally came with silver litz wires, and found nothing was lost by going to the copper litz wires, only around $250 cheaper than the US dealer would charge me for the Nottingham stuff.

I since have acquired a new "Ace" Spacearm, the upgrade from Nottingham from the Spacearm, and am still trying to tell the difference between the old, re-wired arm and the new, "improved" Ace Spacearm with the silver litz wires.....

So, just an idea I'd like to offer you to resolve your dilemma amigo......you could re-use the black wire for your ground and basically be done with the job. The wires are color coded although you have to look pretty hard to see it. One is reddish, one bluish, another greenish and the one that would be white is left straight copper colored, at least that was the way it was with my earbuds. Carry on.....
 
Thanks @Fishead. The issue is that the entire cable is shielded. The cardas cable mentioned by the previous posters is just what I need and is available in the UK. I'm hesitant to order internationally right now because I recently got a package from Poland and was surprised by an extra $25 charge weeks later from Fedex. I don't like surprise charges. I'm considering this right now. Waiting for a reply from the seller.\

edit: I just noticed cardas lists the US sellers so I'll probably go that route
 
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The original looks to have had 5 wires, ground included. Will you just run the ground external to the shielded cable?
 
The original looks to have had 5 wires, ground included. Will you just run the ground external to the shielded cable?
I was going to ask if anyone has info on that. The black wire on the stock cable seems to not be connected to anything. There is no continuity between it and the shielding and it's connected at either end
 
I don't know about the wiring schematic on your table but there might be a service manual that would tell you. Check the database here (akdatabase.com). Some tables have a separate ground wire that grounds the tonearm itself so that is what I would suspect. I see that it terminates in the plug on one end, and I'm assuming you know where the other end goes. If so, you can run it together with the shielded cable and should be fine. You will know if, when you are finished, there is no hum.
 
A bit of an update. I received the cardas 33x4 shielded. $21/ft + $21 shipping = $63. More than I wanted to spend, but not quite ridiculous cost.
1792028421271.png

It sure seems like the black wire in the original isn't used for ground. I didn't get continuity between it and the shield prior to removal, but there was the possibility of damage. When I stripped it back a bit after removal I found this:
1792028848507.png

Onto the replacement. It was a multihour operation. The 33AWG is much smaller than the original wires. Each individual cardas wire is 0.2mm vs 0.4mm for the originals. Hopefully that isn't an issue. The tonearm end is pretty tough work having 10 wires soldered onto a tiny PCB. Slow and steady. I ended up soldering the wires onto the original plug at the other end.
1792029132032.png

I haven't had much time to test yet, but I have sound in both channels again. I'll have to take it apart again because it is hanging up about half way through, but I'll get on that soon. Thanks for the guidance everyone.
 
Good to see that you used the shield as a strain relief, making it shorter than the other wires to the plug.

Hope this works long term for you.

Wish there was a US source for the Mogami wire at less than full reel lengths. It makes an excellent wire to jump from a tonearm connection to RCA plugs on a suspended table. It allows the movement to happen. Magnepan has a chunk of it on their phono cables. Makes mounting the cable to a suspended Thorens easy.
 
I had some time today so I took it apart for the umpteenth time and very carefully routed both cables that come from the tonearm making sure they were clear of everything else and had enough slack for full travel, but not too much slack, and the tonearm now travels the whole record without catching. Success at least partially.
Play test revealed a rather loud hum in just the R channel. I played around with the ground cable, but quickly realized that the RCA cable was bad. Replaced it and it the hum was gone! I'll probably make some homemade with Canare microphone cable. So glad to have that done. Now to spiffy up the outside and then onto my 100 other projects.
 
Lucky you. I don’t even know if I could list all my projects. Some just never get important enough for me to do anything but ignore them. Glad the table is working now.
I feel ya. I just took a few days and organized my workshop. I can't believe how many items I still have in the queue. I like the research and repair part, but not the sales part so much. I could use the money so I better start selling stuff! It's not doing anyone any good just sitting in my garage.
 
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