• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Technics sl 1200 mk 2 one channel louder?

T

TrevorBarten

Well-Known Member
I have a sl 1200 mk 2 that's slightly louder on the left channel. I checked the resistance on both and they are pretty much identical. I also already replaced the phono cable and arm circuit board. I would rather not rewire the tonearm but considering the resistances being the same I doubt it would even help. I also tried using a different headshell and a different cartridge. And of course I also tried a different amplifier. Is there anything else I could have missed or am I just going crazy.
 
Register to hide this ad
I was going to say if azimuth is totally level and anti-skate doesn't help, I'd be curious to hear what happens if you reverse the headshell leads on the cart. If the loudness moves to the right channel then at least you'll know the issue lies in the cart. But it appears to be something deeper, as you've replaced all relevant parts and tried different components. Seems like a deeper issue. Have you cleaned the contacts inside tonearm where the headshell inserts?

Then again, you can always just use that balance control. :)
 
Would definitely be an issue with the cartridge and/or alignment setup - as the table is just pass through to the cartridge. A second cart should prove this.
 
KT88Lvr said:
Would definitely be an issue with the cartridge and/or alignment setup - as the table is just pass through to the cartridge. A second cart should prove this.
Click to expand...

OP mentioned that he has tried different cart and headshell.
 
spark1 said:
OP mentioned that he has tried different cart and headshell.
Click to expand...
Still doesn't make sense - he even replaced the RCAs and the junction. From the cart out - is really just one RCA cable to the preamp.

Does the issue follow when you move right to left on the cables?
 
clean the pins inside the arm tube that contact the back of the headshell with some deoxit on a q-tip. work them in and out as well.
 
Had the same issue. Thought it was in my gear. Turned out I had the left speakers wire polarity swapped. Now back balanced. Just a thought.
 
gary7 said:
Had the same issue. Thought it was in my gear. Turned out I had the left speakers wire polarity swapped. Now back balanced. Just a thought.
Click to expand...
I use headphones for testing but I did start doubting my amplifier so I used a different one. Almost started thinking I had a hearing issue
 
Rewiring the arm can make a huge difference to the sound, not because of the wires (only so much difference a foot of wire can make), but inserting a silicone rubber tube inside the arm whilst rewiring transforms the damping of the arm tube. If you drop the empty arm tube onto a table it bounces and vibrates. Insert the rubber tube and it does not bonce and stops dead with a thunk. The best arms like SME V have constrained damping inside, inserting the tube you do similar and the virtually eliminates the arm resonant peaks. Not original question and I see the OP fixed the issue, but he mentioned an arm rewire so if he does it in the future this is the way to do it.
Chris
 
Glad you got it sorted @TrevorBarten. I just spotted the post and hopped in to suggest about cleaning the headshell connector pins. I had the same low sound in one channel issue on my SL1210MK2 and cleaning them sorted it for me. Shame you had to replace the connector, but at least it's sorted now.
 
cafe latte said:
Rewiring the arm can make a huge difference to the sound, not because of the wires (only so much difference a foot of wire can make), but inserting a silicone rubber tube inside the arm whilst rewiring transforms the damping of the arm tube. If you drop the empty arm tube onto a table it bounces and vibrates. Insert the rubber tube and it does not bonce and stops dead with a thunk. The best arms like SME V have constrained damping inside, inserting the tube you do similar and the virtually eliminates the arm resonant peaks. Not original question and I see the OP fixed the issue, but he mentioned an arm rewire so if he does it in the future this is the way to do it.
Chris
Click to expand...
While I'm here, I don't suppose you could advise me where to get one of the silicone tubes you mentioned please? I've got an SL1210MK2 and am intending to rewire the arm at some point, so it would be good to fit some damping while I'm in there. I've already got a fluid damper kit installed, which made a big difference, but more is better in this case I think.
 
PJuddery said:
While I'm here, I don't suppose you could advise me where to get one of the silicone tubes you mentioned please? I've got an SL1210MK2 and am intending to rewire the arm at some point, so it would be good to fit some damping while I'm in there. I've already got a fluid damper kit installed, which made a big difference, but more is better in this case I think.
Click to expand...
Kabusa, you can buy it on ebay but Keven charges 5 bucks for the right length so bargain IMO.
Chris
 
cafe latte said:
Kabusa, you can buy it on ebay but Keven charges 5 bucks for the right length so bargain IMO.
Chris
Click to expand...
Awesome, thanks @cafe latte. I'll grab some of that, ready for when I get around to working on it. So many repair and restore projects though and while it's working perfectly, the SL1210 isn't high on my list. I'll get to it at some point though.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom