Technics SL- 1300MK2

[SaSi]

I used cyanoacrylic glue to glue the broken ring directly to the brass shaft. There is no way to glue the ring and later mount it on the brass piece.

Do you have any pics?

 

[toups]

I used cyanoacrylic glue to glue the broken ring directly to the brass shaft. There is no way to glue the ring and later mount it on the brass piece.

Do you have any pics?

Yes, I did dry the ring to the shaft, but the epoxy didn't stick. I'll try a different glue. Luckily, it broke while reassembling. At that point. I noticed that the epoxy could be easily popped off of the plastic.

There is a single break pretty much where yours was broken. Will try to post pictures later.

 

[toups]

Tried a Loctite superglue for plastics after the epoxy failure. It worked for tens of test runs without record and needle. Put a needle on and played a record. Hit stop and the lift broke again. Luckily neither the needle or record was damaged as I was there for this first live run. I assume that the piece came loose again, but I haven't opened it up. That's a project for another day.

Obviously, I need a stronger fix using a mechanical reinforcement. However, clearances are tight and I haven't figured out how to reinforce the area of the break. It has been suggested to drill holes and use wire, but the break is against a step and there may be limited clearance there. I'll need to check further during the next iteration. I am also worried about weakening the good portion of the part.

Any suggestions as to a glue that will actually stick to the plastic? (My piece is black.) Anyone know what type of plastic it is? (Luckily, my reinforced epoxy job on the muting tab has held up so far.)

BTW, it looked really nice during the test runs.

A few suggestions for those going down this path.

1) Put some tape to protect the tone arm wires at the solder joints and serve as a strain relief. The solder joint is the weak point. (Don't ask me how I know. Note the wires can be easily resoldered. No need to strip, use the solder iron to melt back the insulation at the end of the wire.)

2) Don't forget to remove the black lift mechanism (single screw that is also the adjustment screw.)

3) When following the disassembly instructions at http://voenixrising.wordpress.com/2008/04/06/technics-sl-1300mk2-service/ there is no need to go past step 5 if you are only going to work on the tonearm.

4) Be careful removing the split ring at the top of the lift mechanism. You may have to sand or file any raised spots if you nick the soft shaft when removing the split ring or you will not able to remove or replace the bushing. Avoid messing with the actual surface where the bushing bearing actually rides.

5) You will probably need to clean and replace the damping fluid. Cleaning some but not all off, may allow it to work while you acquire some more fluid. (A suggestion I found is to check out model car differential fluid as an alternate source.)

6) It is a lot easier to do the second (or third ) time around!

I'll update after the next iteration, probably next week.

 

[toups]

It looks like the second time is the charm. This time I used a Loctite Epoxy for plastic. (However, this does not stick well to the smooth plastic surface.) I roughened up the inside of the plastic part and the mating surface of the solid bearing. I also drilled a pair of 1/32 inch holes through both of the thicker portions and used some magnet wire to reinforce it and soldered the ends. The repair seems to be holding up to the initial testing. Still wondering what can glue to this part.:scratch2: Hopefully the glue on the roughed up surfaces holds.

I will need to open it up again to add some damping oil once I get to a hobby store that has some RC car differential oil. I believe the consensus is a 300,000 Wt. I may be able to pick up some 500,000 and 120,000 at a hobby store in the area. (Hey then I can customize a mix to tailor the speed?) When I open it up in a week or two to apply the damping, I'll be able to see how the repair is holding up. In particular, I'll be interested to see if the glue is still holding in addition to the magnet wire.

Again, many thanks to SaSi for posting the initial information on how to fix it. :thmbsp::thmbsp::thmbsp::thmbsp:

Another hint, make sure the arm is completely free before reassembling. The optical sensor is on a spring loaded adjustable mount. Also, clearances are tight so take your time and double check that everything is seated just right.

 

[SoCal Sam]

Good information on repairing the SL-1300 to 1500. If the cueing doesn't work, they would be a no go for me. On a side note, the SL-1200 MKII, SL-1600 MKII, and SL-1700 MKII have belt driven cueing and auto traversing which is about a five minute job to replace the belt.

 

[hakaplan]

Good information on repairing the SL-1300 to 1500. If the cueing doesn't work, they would be a no go for me. On a side note, the SL-1200 MKII, SL-1600 MKII, and SL-1700 MKII have belt driven cueing and auto traversing which is about a five minute job to replace the belt.

Just a small correction. It is only the 1600MK2 and 1700MK2 that use the cueing belt. The 1200MK2 and the 1800MK2 are oil damped.

 

[thedelihaus]

I've repaired a few items by using gauze saturated with glue- the threads if the gauze, once the glue hardens, act as "criss-crossed hair thin rods" to add strength to the part.

Kind of like using fibreglass and fibreglass cloth, but on a very rudimentary level.

 

[toups]

It looks like the second time is the charm. This time I used a Loctite Epoxy for plastic. (However, this does not stick well to the smooth plastic surface.) I roughened up the inside of the plastic part and the mating surface of the solid bearing. I also drilled a pair of 1/32 inch holes through both of the thicker portions and used some magnet wire to reinforce it and soldered the ends. The repair seems to be holding up to the initial testing. Still wondering what can glue to this part.:scratch2: Hopefully the glue on the roughed up surfaces holds.
....

Well I opened it up and added the damping fluid. It now works like a champ.

Another issue I found was that the plastic guide for the VTA adjustment appears to be cracked or something so that it allows the VTA to be tilted a bit if one isn't careful. I slid a plastic shim on both sides of the plastic guide for added support. The shim is between the guide and the outer wall, not between the guide and the moving portion used to adjust the VTA. This was a quick easy fix. As long as the plastic shims don't slip out (and impede the arm rotation,) everything should be great. Probably didn't need to do this, but it was possible to rotate so that the tone arm wouldn't clear when properly lifted. I didn't want to take a chance with it slipping or being missadjusted in the future.

Regarding the repair of the original problem, it appears that the glue did not hold again. However, the wire is holding although I wish I did a slightly better job. I didn't want to risk redoing it so I'll leave it as is for now.

I am still very happy with this turntable in spite of these minor aging issues.

 

[toups]

Well I picked up another pair with the intention of putting at least one back on e-bay after repairing. The repair for the second unit went much smoother this time. Waiting for the third to arrive. Hopefully I can recoup a little of my investment.

 

[toups]

Well the third SL-1300 MK2 arrived. It is an older variant with the part in question being white rather than black. I will be repairing it soon and putting one of the three back up for sale. Part of the reason I ordered the third is that it came with a AT15Sa cartridge. And as a first, this one actually had an intact stylus! Need to spend some time with a microscope, but I think this one may be useable.

I now have a nice collection of AT cartridges with needles with varying hours on them. They are an AT11E, an AT13Ea and finally is the newly acquired AT15Sa.

I also have a Shure V15 V and a Shure Realistic R47 EDT both with broken styli. (These were acquired via turntable purchases.) I would like to hear the V15 with a JICO SAS stylus, but that will have to wait. Too many other items are higher priority for now. I am not sure what to do with the R47. With a good stylus, that should be an acceptable setup. One currently with what appears to be a stylus on ebay is not getting any bids.

I guess I'll have to post a picture of how I ended up reinforcing the plastic part with copper wire at some point when I have a chance.

 

[hakaplan]

The R47EDT accepts the R5X stylus (.4 x .7 elliptical), but can be upgraded with the R8X stylus, or the N75ED Type 2 (both .2 x .7) or the N75HE (hyperelliptical) which lpgear sells. That should be a decent cartridge.

 

[toups]

The R47EDT accepts the R5X stylus (.4 x .7 elliptical), but can be upgraded with the R8X stylus, or the N75ED Type 2 (both .2 x .7) or the N75HE (hyperelliptical) which lpgear sells. That should be a decent cartridge.

Thanks for the info. I had run across information that implied the N75 T2 variants should work. Thanks for the confirmation. With a good stylus I agree that should be a good setup. It's just that I have an over abundance of good cartridges at the moment.

 

[stereofisher]

Keep the cart

Audio Technica AT15Sa is on the cartridge , thanks . Looking to replace the stylus hopefully . This Cartridge seems to be expensive ? Is this a good quality piece?

At first I was going to suggest you get new cart. Then you posted the model. Keeo it and see if JICO has a stylus for it. They should. After Shure AT is my favorite. Even their cheap carts sound good to me:thmbsp: That AT15 was one of ATs top models. If I ever see one I'll get it It is a great match with the Technics..Good find!!!

 

[revox-b77]

Hi,
I picked one of these tables up last week. I am trying to figure out how to refill the damping fluid in it. The auto start and stop are working just fine so I am assuming that this table is not suffering the broken plastic bit yet. Where does one put the damping fluid? how much do you use?
Thanks!

 

[toups]

Hi,
I picked one of these tables up last week. I am trying to figure out how to refill the damping fluid in it. The auto start and stop are working just fine so I am assuming that this table is not suffering the broken plastic bit yet. Where does one put the damping fluid? how much do you use?
Thanks!

If it lifts, but the tone arm drops too fast then it is the damping fluid. (Unlikely but possible.)

However, if it doesn't lift, then it is the plastic part!

 

[Alexcited]

I recently started using my 1300, and the auto return just drags the needle across the record..is this the problem other people have been having or is mine a different one?

 

[kermit z]

I recently started using my 1300, and the auto return just drags the needle across the record..is this the problem other people have been having or is mine a different one?

Nope, that's what happens to all of them

 

[toups]

I recently started using my 1300, and the auto return just drags the needle across the record..is this the problem other people have been having or is mine a different one?

I assume your mean a 1300 MK2, then yes that's the standard problem. (I don't think the original 1300 had this problem.) Don't forget to use the black button on the back to disable the auto return before the stylus gets broken or a record scratched. Should be a great manual table until you get around to repairing the dreaded plastic piece.

 

[majick47]

AK member has recently come up with a repair for the tonearm cueing problem, do a search. I'd say well worth the price of a repaired tonearm, the 1300/1400Mk2 sounds every bit the equal of the SL-1200Mk2 and might even give it a slight edge.