I uncovered a Technics SL-1400 (original, not a MKII) in a garage recently and was hoping to get it working again. It's pretty dingy but can be cleaned and nothing looks broken. When I first plugged it in and started the platter (by moving the tonearm) the platter spun really fast although it was set to 33. I changed the speed to 45 and oddly enough the platter slowed down a bit. I returned the arm and the platter stopped and I cant seem to get it started again. I saw a post concerning a fuse that someone discovered in their 1300 that was blown and luckily replacing the fuse seemed to solve their issue. I found a similar fuse inside the 1400 and indeed it was blown. There are 2 fuses, a 250ma fuse (not blown) which seems to control the strobe and some other stuff and then there is a 1A fuse that I'm guessing controls the motor. I replaced the blown 1A fuse with a 1A fuse but it instantly blew when I activated the platter by moving the tonearm. It did the same thing to 2 more fuses and they both blew instantly too when the tonearm was moved. Anyone have any suggestions. I'm definitely novice with electrical but I can follow instructions. Thanks!
Technics SL-1400 Platter Wont Spin
- Thread starter Bonafide
- Start date
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- fuse technics 1400
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I just picked up an original SL-1400 from my neighbor who was cleaning out his garage today. It is behaving in a similar manner as described by Bonafide. It runs at 45, but i can't adjust the speed to stay at exactly 45, either a bit too fast or a bit too slow, does not run at all set to 33. There seems to be position on the speed switch between 33 and 45 marked with a dot - what is that for? Also the clocking on the automatic arm return etc. does not seem to be working correctly. I did not open it up yet. I have not seen much on repairing these TTs here on AK. Are the motors repairable, is there some sort of motor control unit that can be restored? I have a working original SL-1300 that I bought new in 1975 and it would be great to have the pair side by side, since they are almost identical.
Thanks N8, my SL-1300 does not have that position on the speed selector. Do you know, or does anyone have a source for info on troubleshooting and fixing these original series SLs? I found a service manual for the SL-1300 and was able to download, but not the 1400.
Fixed the issue with the 1400. Cleaned the speed control pots, speed selector switch, and variable resistors as seen in this you tube video:
That is all it took. No electrical repair needed.
I used Deoxit 5, and the lubed with CRC 2-26. 33 works, 45 works, and both hold perfect speed. While i was at it i needed to clean the headshell socket in the tone arm. Cleaned up the plinth, and polished the dust cover with a liquid car wax. It works perfectly and looks pretty good. There are some dark stains/paint loss on the plinth where a hand would lift the tone arm at the front. Other than that it is very good. I swapped in the headshell from my 1300 with my original 681EEE and it sounded great. I found that the dot position on the speed switch overrides the power, so you can place the arm on the record, an switch from dot (off) to 33 and the platter will go to a steady 33 very quickly (within the time of the lead-in groove of a mid side track). This is how i used to do on on the SP-10s we had at my college radio station - I did not expect the same 0-33 start-up with the 1400, but it was pretty close. Liking the 1400 more than my old 1300. But definitely keeping both.
I used Deoxit 5, and the lubed with CRC 2-26. 33 works, 45 works, and both hold perfect speed. While i was at it i needed to clean the headshell socket in the tone arm. Cleaned up the plinth, and polished the dust cover with a liquid car wax. It works perfectly and looks pretty good. There are some dark stains/paint loss on the plinth where a hand would lift the tone arm at the front. Other than that it is very good. I swapped in the headshell from my 1300 with my original 681EEE and it sounded great. I found that the dot position on the speed switch overrides the power, so you can place the arm on the record, an switch from dot (off) to 33 and the platter will go to a steady 33 very quickly (within the time of the lead-in groove of a mid side track). This is how i used to do on on the SP-10s we had at my college radio station - I did not expect the same 0-33 start-up with the 1400, but it was pretty close. Liking the 1400 more than my old 1300. But definitely keeping both.
jimmydelux
New Member
I also have this turntable and it's having issues. Figured I'd check the fuses first.. I have to ask, where is the location of the 1a fuse? I only see the one 300ma. Is the other one not in easy view? Thanks