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Technics SL 1600 tone arm adjustments

ZiggyBuck

ZiggyBuck

New Member
I am putting a new headshell and cartridge in my 1970's era SL 1600 (not MK II) and can't find any adjustments for leveling the tone arm. Is it adjustable? Also, looking at protractors for alignment of the cartridge and can't figure out which one to use. I have the white plastic alignment gauge that came with the TT. Is that enough to use for proper alignment?
 
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no leveling mech for the tonearm, use different mats to achieve level. and the technics alignment gauge is just fine.
 
Is there an angular displacement I have to set when mounting the new headshell or just line it up in the gauge?
 
Technics did all geometry for you reduce to one point and angle fine straight in head shell as long as adhere to their over hang point and head shell dimensions
If you like to work plenty of grid style two point protractors on internet arc style too go to vinyl engine
Also user manual on internet too will show you owner manual suggested way
JJ
 
SME inspired headshell? Have technics SFPCC31001K headshell coming and new Shure M44-7 cartridge. Using original technical "S" shaped tonearm. From what I'm hearing, the alignment gauge should suffice. What should I set for weight (don't have a gram scale)?
 
ZiggyBuck said:
SME inspired headshell? Have technics SFPCC31001K headshell coming and new Shure M44-7 cartridge. Using original technical "S" shaped tonearm. From what I'm hearing, the alignment gauge should suffice. What should I set for weight (don't have a gram scale)?
Click to expand...
Wiring convention and typical removable headshell like used today on most tonearms inspired by famous SME series II head shell
That is what you have
Just do google SME head shell
JJ
 
Thanks for all the good info folks. How about tracking weight? I've seen everything from 1.5-3.0 g. Some say set it in the middle and readjust by sound. What's best?
 
JimmyEJames said:
What does respect have to do with it?
It was up 15 minutes you just not read thread
JJ
Click to expand...
Well, like I said your response was not visible to me when I responded. Only after I responded did I realize you had posted. Has nothing to do with reading, your post physically was not visible to me at the time I responded.
 
If you're using the correct original headshell for that turntable (the one with a single screw on top and a movable cartridge mounting block) then you don't really have to worry about the VTA especially if you are using a good old Shure cartridge. Technics anticipated all of the measurements as JJ pointed out earlier and for most common cartridges it should be just about right. The overhang adjustment for Technics arms is 52mm from the stylus tip to the rubber collar washer (which is what the Technics gauge will set it to). As mentioned earlier the cart should be dead on straight in the headshell (which is will be by default with the original single screw adjustable type).

If you are using the Mk. II type of headshell with the two screw slots then you may have to shim the cartridge or use a thicker platter mat to get exact level because that type of headshell rides lower than the original one designed for that table. IMO this is not a very critical adjustment, especially when using a conical tip stylus like the M44-7 has which is more forgiving of VTA discrepancies. Should be 52mm and dead straight in the shell for the original recommended Technics alignment with this headshell too, if you use a protractor then whatever you end up with depends on that particular alignment scheme (but as JJ pointed out Technics already did the work for you).

Regarding tracking force, if you're using the M44-7 I would set it for 2~2.5 grams and listen for sibilance. Quite frankly that's not version of the M44 cartridge I would use in a very nice turntable like the SL-1600, I'd go for the M-44G which is a more compliant HIFI version of the old M-44 design. M44-7 is kind of a heavy tracking DJ cartridge more suited to back cueing (something one doesn't do with a nice spring suspended turntable like the SL-16, 17 and 1800 models). Just my 2 bits.
 
Well that cartridge has been in production for 50+ years and really is another product 'adopted' by the DJ crowd, rather than developed for them.

I'd just go ahead and use it. Should you decide down the road, you could easily upgrade the stylus in the M44-7 down the road. A n44-e or n55-e stylus would work and gives you the benefit of an elliptical profile (the m44-g is spherical). The m44-e was a higher-output version at 9.5mV, same as the M44-7, and tracking force of 1.75 to 4g. The m55-e a lower output at 6.2mV, same as the m44-g, with a tracking force of 0.75 to 2g. I think the majority of these styli will do fine nearer the lower of the tracking force range. The problem will be finding a NOS stylus. If looking aftermarket I'd get a JICO.

I'm pretty sure the m44 / n55e combo is what was on my 1st SL-1210 Mk2.

For reference, the 52mm measurement it isn't overhang. Overhang is the distance beyond the turntable spindle to the stylus tip. The measurement set in the Technics 'overhang' gauge is just a handy way to reference it. So for the SL-1600, the effective length is 230mm. That's the distance from the center of tonearm pivot to the stylus tip. Overhang is 15mm. So the center spindle to tonearm pivot distance should be 230-15 = 215mm. The distance from the tonearm pivot to the end of the tonearm should be 230 - 52 = 178mm (or thereabouts .... as the tonearm isn't straight ... the straight-line distance measures more like 180mm).
 
Yes, I have a couple of them from the 1960's in my collection and they are the same as the new ones. It's not the cartridge itself in question, it's the stylus/cantilever assembly in it that has been purpose built (which is why there is another new option). There's nothing wrong with the spherical 44-G stylus, probably better to have a new spherical than an old stock elliptical with an aging suspension.

And just to keep what Technics calls the overhang adjustment clear to the OP, here is the setting. You don't really need the gauge, just a simple machinists ruler. There's no need to over complicate a very simple procedure...52mm done and done.

Overhang_Technics_5-1.gif
 
To all of you experts that provided invaluable advise, thank you. I could not have gotten this relic up and sounding great without you.... not that its perfect, but to 66-year-old ears that spent 25 years flying C-130s and will never see the north side of 20,000 Hz again, it sounds fantastic. Thanks.
 
Van_Isle said:
For reference, the 52mm measurement it isn't overhang.
Click to expand...
Yes it is EXACTLY THAT OVERHANG easy point of reference no need to over analyze every thing parse words when Technics make it so easy
How the heck you going to find EXACT center of pivot on Technics arm?
No need to convolute the obvious TRYING to sound knowledgeable when Technics standardize length SPECIFIC for this OBVIOUS purpose provide easy point to use for set up
It called common sense
No need for created confusion with choice of words because that is ONLY reason 52 millimeter value is even relevant! : - (
JJ
 
Well, overhang is the distance I described .... not the distance set in the Technics gauge .... and it's listed in the specs of the turntable as such along with the effective length. As I said, the Technics gauge gives "a handy way to reference it", as do many other turntable manufacturers that supplied a similar gauge with their product.

The info I provided was not intended to direct the OP to align in that manner ... you note I prefaced my remarks with 'for reference'. Rather it was given in the spirit of educating the OP on the subject, applicable to all turntables (with the provision of course that there are 'overhung' turntables, 'underhung' turntables and turntables with neither). I'm not the 1st and probably will not be the last to point out the difference. JJ, I'm sorry you feel so offended by most member's efforts to provide information and educate.

I'm also very surprised at your comment with regard to finding the center of pivot on a Technics arm. It's pretty easy, since the horizontal axis is marked by the needle bearing. How close one can come to being 'exact' is perhaps a matter for discussion, but keep in mind that there have been a number of alignment tools marketed over the years that require setting-up on this point or aligning with this point (the Clearaudio, Pro-Ject, Geodisc and Feikert tools being examples). I suspect one could come a lot closer to 'exact' pivot center with the definite reference provided by the pivot style on a Technics than many other designs out there.
 
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