Technics SL 1700 MK2

[cloneofkane]

I spent some time comparing 2 TT's (Marantz 6100 belt drive vs. Technics SL-Q2 direct drive), both with entry level MM cartridges) in my system (to Marantz 2275 to JBL L112's) to determine whether I should upgrade to a higher end belt drive or direct drive TT. I determined that I preferred the Technics SL-Q2 sound (even though I prefer the look of the 6100), and decided that I would upgrade to a higher end Technics direct drive model. After researching a bit, it sounds like an SL-1700 is a solid and reliable performer with less to go wrong with it than the fully automatic SL-1600, but with auto-return, which I've decided is a must have for me.

There is a very nice looking and recently serviced Technics SL-1700 MK2 here Austin that I am considering. Before I pull trigger, I thought I would ask the following:

1) Is there anything specific functionally I should take a look at? I seem to remember reading something about replacing RCA cables on some of the Technics tables, but don't remember if the SL-1700 MK2 was included.

2) I will also get a cartridge and have been considering MM in the $100-$125 range. The Sumiko Pearl seems to be the sweet spot between the lively Ortofon 2M Red and warmer Shure M97xE, but any thoughts on how these or others might pair with an SL-1700 MK2 in my system? I listen mostly to classic rock and jazz.

3) Lastly, my general budget is $500-$600 and the SL-1700 MK2 I am considering falls around that mark. Are there any other DD auto-return TT's I should consider that might be a better value and performer for that much $?

Many thanks in advance for advice/opinions -
Dave

 

[432HzBob]

I don;t have the 1700 but I do run a 1600 MK2 as a main TT and do like it alot.
Rescued out of a dumpster behind an AV "repair" shop, all it needed was a new tonearm belt and the dust cover wasn;t even cracked.
Mine has been trouble free for 4 years now in stock form but a few things I did were:

1) Put some Dynamat and clay in various places inside the plinth and under the deck to reduce feedback. I live in a VERY noisy wood home and the Technics is my only TT that can handle loud volumes without feedback. Must be why DJ's love them.
A few drops of synthetic oil in the spindle area and anywhere I thought there might be friction. Some light synthetic grease underneath in the gear areas and sliders.

2) I'll save you the trouble here after having run all the carts and needles you mentioned. Buy an older "brown body" Grado cartridge off the Bay and spend the $150 for their 8MZ stylus. GF-1 and GF-3 I use and have never had any of the dreaded "Grado hum". All the other carts you listed are pretty OK but none of them will open up that table and the grooves like a good old fashioned Grado and their kick-butt 8MZ stylus.
You could spend alot of money experimenting with different carts, which is half the fun of this hobby, but if you want to start right out the gate with something I have found through alot of different carts it's the Vintage Grado+8MZ combo.

3) No. You could spend alot more on an arguably better table and get dminished returns but if you want everyday Toyota-like reliability and full automatic ease, then the tank-like older Technics are your man. Should run another 40 years without abuse.
Plus, auto return is a handy feature when you fall asleep listening to a Vangelis album.

 

[bigx5murf]

RCA cable issues affect all the sl-1x00 models. I've had beat up flood damaged unit, where the RCA was cut, and random connector put in place that worked fine, and I've had mint condition TT, with all accessories, and the RCA would drop one channel in and out when you wiggled the cable. It's impossible to tell if the RCA cable is good or not without testing. I would plan to replace it anyway, although I've found out the hard way not any old cable will give good results (solid core RCA cables I've tried wouldn't always pass signal). I've had consistently good results with monster cable, and python cables I find at thrift shops for $1-3 each. I've also tried once a mogami with neutrik connectors from an ebay seller, very pretty, but not any better than the thrift shop cables I've used. One of my favorites was a monster cable meant for car audio installs, it has a 3rd wire built in that's perfect for use as a ground cable.

I know most people prefer the mk2 models, which add quartz lock, and have better measured speed stability, and wow/flutter. But the servo only mk1 have much simpler PCBs, with less to go wrong, and most likely can be brought up to spec with just a simple recap, no hunting down rare ICs. In actual use, a servo only mk1 is just as functionally stable as a quartz lock mk2.

A mod I've found benefits this whole line, is to wrap the tonearm in a layer of plumber's teflon tape. Very noticeable improvement in bass tightness, for pennies.

 

[cloneofkane]

Great stuff, guys. Sounds like there are ineffective enhancements I can make, and that I should definitely plan on replacing the RCA cables on a Technics. I will keep an eye out for the recommended Grado, as well. Thank you and appreciate any other thoughts/opinions.

 

[needforspeed]

MK II's well regarded here. I used Grado on my 1200. No issues. Tone arm rewire/RCA's, A great upgrade.

 

[jeffpaletz]

Most of the time the existing RCA cables are fine. I'd lubricate the the center spindle as shown in the instructions and use it as is. My recommendation for a great sounding cartridge is the Ortofon OM20, 30 or 40. By the way, two of my rooms have JBL L100s in them so I know how great your L112s sound. To me the L100 is still the best sounding speaker I've heard.

 

[432HzBob]

Great stuff, guys. Sounds like there are ineffective enhancements I can make, and that I should definitely plan on replacing the RCA cables on a Technics. I will keep an eye out for the recommended Grado, as well. Thank you and appreciate any other thoughts/opinions.

And likewise I learned something as well and will be looking to solder in some better RCA's.
What we love about the 'Karma; All of us learn something new.

 

[SA-708]

If the automatic functions are not working, it is often caused by a broken tone arm belt. Replacing the belt is a simple and inexpensive repair.
There's also a gear that can crack and cause problems, but neither of my SL-1700Mk2s have that problem.

 

[432HzBob]

Most of the time the existing RCA cables are fine. I'd lubricate the the center spindle as shown in the instructions and use it as is. My recommendation for a great sounding cartridge is the Ortofon OM20, 30 or 40. By the way, two of my rooms have JBL L100s in them so I know how great your L112s sound. To me the L100 is still the best sounding speaker I've heard.

You have inspired this man to try his 1st Ortofon at some point. Never run one since the Grado but I am willing to be impressed.
BTW, what you say about JBL's is true.
"They're old and they suck" some who do not know say.
Wrong. I love my L-101's and never thought I'd hear something that replaced the Infinity RS-6's. True.

 

[needforspeed]

And likewise I learned something as well and will be looking to solder in some better RCA's.
What we love about the 'Karma; All of us learn something new.

There is a walk thru here if you search. It's not hard, But a lot of hardware to get the thru. Just bag and mark as you go. Go KAB.Com, He has it pre-Assembled. All 1200 rewires will work on any series TT.

 

[432HzBob]

If the automatic functions are not working, it is often caused by a broken tone arm belt. Replacing the belt is a simple and inexpensive repair.
There's also a gear that can crack and cause problems, but neither of my SL-1700Mk2s have that problem.

Yes what you say is true.
Just take the old one to a local hardware store and get one that matches.
I refused to pay gouge prices ($12?) for an "official" belt and the local hardware store model has worked fine.
Key is; rub it down with some silicone oil and it will stay pliable for years.

 

[needforspeed]

Most of the time the existing RCA cables are fine. I'd lubricate the the center spindle as shown in the instructions and use it as is. My recommendation for a great sounding cartridge is the Ortofon OM20, 30 or 40. By the way, two of my rooms have JBL L100s in them so I know how great your L112s sound. To me the L100 is still the best sounding speaker I've heard.

It's the tone arm wiring that gets corroded over time. The RCA's are connected. You kill 2 birds.

 

[bluemooze]

I bought one on eBay last summer and it has become my favorite turntable. Much fun to be able to swap cartridges. Good luck.

 

[cloneofkane]

I am a little spooked about the IC chips -- is the potential breakdown enough to shift focus to pre-MK2? I found nice examples of SL-1300, SL-1400 and SL-1600 on the auction site for what appear to be reasonable prices. Or I could always surface a WTB on BT.

I imagine there is good info I can mine on AK already and I'll start digging, but I appreciate any thoughts.

 

[chamaruco]

I can suggest you a sl1301 or sl1401, rare but in the middle between mk1 and mk2, maintaining the simplicity of the first ones and the accuracy of the second ones.
I have a sl1401.

 

[bluemooze]

I am a little spooked about the IC chips -- is the potential breakdown enough to shift focus to pre-MK2? I found nice examples of SL-1300, SL-1400 and SL-1600 on the auction site for what appear to be reasonable prices. Or I could always surface a WTB on BT.

I imagine there is good info I can mine on AK already and I'll start digging, but I appreciate any thoughts.

If you're going to prophecy breakdowns then you shouldn't be buying used.

 

[bigx5murf]

I say get what you can find a good deal on, don't let mk1 or mk2 be a deciding factor. Mk2 may have better measured specs, but in actual use you won't notice.

 

[Chrisxo55441]

I have 2 1700 mk2 and they are my favorite tables. (have 10) i did have an issue with the tone arm stopping mid return on one and could not get it going again. brought it in to the tech who does my tube gear and tables and he couldnt trace the issue even with a few ideas i found on here and said that he probably couldnt fix it even if he did at least not for any cost that would be close to reasonable. so i gather they are very hard to work on and get parts for. when he put it get together it was working again but not from anything he did so i just keep my fingers crossed. if goes down again i will get another one i like them that much. i have a 1600 mk1 as well but it is the bedroom and doesnt get used much. it is best to buy tables local if you can a lot sellers on Ebay do not know how pack and ship turntables and i have received 4 with damage broken stylus and cracked dust cover.