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Technics SL-5 linear tracking turntable stopped playing SL5 SL 5

A

alwaysbuddy

Member
Bought an SL-5 at an estate sale about 2 years ago, have been using for about 1 year very regularly, but the other day, out of nowhere, it ceased starting if I press the START button. I have been able to get it to engage (the platter spinning and cartridge descending) if I use the CUEING button, but it will only play for about 30 seconds before the cart raises up, returns to its "dormant" location, and platter stops.

The little plastic bit in the back left that acts as a sensor to confirm an LP is on the platter seems fine/unbroken.

Any suggestions for troubleshooting and fixing would be appreciated! I have an alternate turntable, Orbit U-Turn, but that really suffers an annoying audible phono hum and static when I remove discs no matter what measures I take to improve it...but that's a topic for another thread. Meanwhile, the Technics is dead quiet when grounded! Never skips, sounds great, I love it!....when it worked, that is.
 
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There is also a hall effect pickup under the platter -- make sure the finger is sticking up through the hole in the mat.

I have a "new" SL-5 that is also making me crazy -- it works fine, but the arm will not move, just jumps back and hops over the groove (I'm testing it with a junk record). If it turn the V501 to make it move it drags across the record --or would if I didn't lift the lid anyway. I suspect there is something goofy with the arm angle detection system -- most likely a bad lamp, that's usually what goes bad there. I will take it downstairs here is a bit and do the proper adjustment to V501 with a volt meter, but I'm betting it's in the arm sensor. Hopefully not an unobtainium part.....
 
I just fixed mine. All new capacitors on the main board, haven't gotten into the arm board yet.

All the small ones were high leakage, like usual, the 100 uF caps were OK for capacitance and ESR, but over 2% leakage.

Works like a dream, will finish it up tomorrow and install a functional cartridge, I have an old AT on here that's dubious. Stylus is shot, but it tracks.
 
It's a bit hard to diagnose over the interweb, but have you checked the condition of the belt? If the cart doesn't advance it is going to call it quits. If you can press Cue and move the cart then maybe it is ok.
You can trick the SL5 into "playing" with the lid up by taping the lid switch down/in and pressing play. You should be able to see it moving along. It is possible that the slide rod for the cart is gummed up too, never hurts to clean it. Be warned though, you will almost certainly need to adjust the servo gain for the cart after doing this. Luckily some idiot made a YT about it.

After that (or before maybe), as suggested, new caps wont hurt - the old Matushitas go very bad. There's only about half a dozen, with one on the cart assembly. Take note that 2 on the main PCB are bipolar - don't get them in the wrong place.
 
The belt can move the arm when you hold the button down but not while playing, it can slip.

To check, remove the two screws holding the cover on the left side under the lid, unclip the two clips at the top by pressing in on the indent under them to unhook them from the back side. There is a plastic pin in the bottom right hand side of that cover, it' a push fit.

The belt goes between the motor and the worm gear driveshaft. Needs to be snug but not stretched tight, it transmits vibration if it's too tight. One in an assortment of cassette tape player drive belts will work. Some fresh grease on the worm gear is a good idea too, whatever the factory used gets very gummy with age.

I put a tighter belt on mine that I will remove and replace with the original, too much noise. Probably need to clean the rail and re-lube it too to cut down the drag.

If it moves the arm with the play and stop switches, the switches are good.

The bipolar caps are 47uF 25V, probably in the motor control circuit like on my Realistic table. Tested OK in both cases, but the speed is much more stable now with new one on both.
 
If you have a vintage linear technics, and you haven't replaced the drive belt, you should. They're not in spec anymore. I don't care how well it was protected, you WILL improve the performance and lifespan.

It's the best $10 you can spend, hands down.
 
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Thanks so much. I have never changed the arm drive belt.

This is definitely the number one piece of advice I've always read about these. Was fully expecting to have to replace upon purchase from the estate sale, but I was surprised to find the whole thing fully functional. Looks like there are options on the site of *a major online vendor* but anyone suggest anywhere else?
 
I had my doubts about these tables when they first came out, but I was wrong. Very robust indeed.

That belt gets loose or sticky, and in either case doesn't move the arm like it should, and the computer times out. Easy fix.

Enjoy!
 
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