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Technics sl-5 Skipping the entrire LP record .

I

ivandemarco

New Member
Guys found a technics Sl-5 for $10 at a japan surplus store .I bought it a new stylus using a p24 cartridge .. Upon pressing pay, i noticed that the TT was skipping the entire record ..I just hear the record skips rapidly .. I adjusted the pressure adjsutment screw and got it to play good once . But after repeat playing ,it came back to skipping ( without adjsting anything ) .. Need help guys .. I just cant give up on this because of my stylus purchase , thanks!!!!
 
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Hi
Vexing indeed. First check the stylus to be sure it is installed right and does not have some kind of guard on it or skuzz. Use a magnifier if possible. Raise the brush if there is one.I know this is obvious but it needs to be done just in case. After that set up the weights to make the tone arm float with 0 weight or pressure. Set the anti skate to 0. Dial in 1.5 grams. Now check it again and report back to us. I know this is all simple and you may have done it already but this is the starting point. Is this a fast dive to the inside or is it a series of small skips?
Rob
 
Kahoona said:
Hi
Vexing indeed. First check the stylus to be sure it is installed right and does not have some kind of guard on it or skuzz. Use a magnifier if possible. Raise the brush if there is one.I know this is obvious but it needs to be done just in case. After that set up the weights to make the tone arm float with 0 weight or pressure. Set the anti skate to 0. Dial in 1.5 grams. Now check it again and report back to us. I know this is all simple and you may have done it already but this is the starting point. Is this a fast dive to the inside or is it a series of small skips?
Rob
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Hi ROb,

Stylus is installed correctly , No guards .. NO brush .. The SL-5 Is linear tracking . Does setting up the tonearmwith your instruction would work? This is fast dive to the inside skipping rob.
 
No. Not with linear. That is a different animal and has different set up. I did not bother to look up that model. Sorry. I believe that I did have that problem exactly on one that was very similar and I was able to repair it completely. Let me look and see if I got pics and what the model was. and I will tell you what I did. That would have been a smooth slide from right to left because it is being driven by the motor itself. If you google the model number with the word problem you will probably get info. It involves the switch that causes the drive to move it to follow the groove but there are other things to be attended to. Not hard to do. Mine was driven by a cord. Do not get anything on the cord or it will slip. You may want to work on getting the top (deck) off of it. On mine it involves a few screws and then carefully lifting and turning the deck until the arm is free of the deck. There was a small panel attached to the deck with a screw that had to come off first.Take lots of detailed clear photos because you will need to get things back exactly right and pop off the cart and or stylus so they don't get damaged.I'll check to see what I have and come back. Might be a couple of hours because I have a meeting to attend now. This can be fixed and may be simple.
Rob
 
Mine was a Kenwood but I bet they are very similar. I'm looking for my pics from the repair. Can you pull the deck and take some large clear pics of the drive mech and post them along with one taken of the TT from the top down?
 

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hi ROB,
here are the photos ..
 

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With any luck there is a PDF of the service manual attached. If not go to Vinylengine for a copy. This is similar in operation to the one I repaired but assembled differently. I believe it is a nicer one. The tone arm drive motor is turned on when the stylus touches the album surface by a sensor. The tone arm begins to track toward the inside of the album, driven by the tracking motor through a cable (string). The pressure of the stylus riding on the inside of the groove causes a slight resistance to the tone arm movement. This resistance is sensed by one or more switches placed in contact with the tonearm. The switches slow or briefly stop the tonearm tracking. They release when the pressure increases. This produces the motion across the record. The sensing and control is so fast that it seems like an uninterrupted motion along the groove. In my case the microswitch that slowed the inward movement was stuck and caused the tone arm to proceed at full speed to the inside where it was lifted and returned to rest. I located the switch (which was very obvious once I got the parts exposed and removed it so that I could clean it with Deoxit. It was that simple. Study the schematic and the disassembly pics in the manual and you should be able to find it. Those parts are labeled in the drawings. In the schematic you can see the switches bu finding the tracking motor and following its wiring through the circuit board to the switches diagram.
After this was done I also needed to clean the moving parts with a Qtip and mild soapy water. I had to oil the tracking motor bearings and the gear bearings and I had to add a tiny dot of petroleum jelly to the gear teeth to make everything move smoothly.
If this does not help I am sure we can convince some of the others here who actually know what they are doing. All of the info you need is in that manual. Study it for a while and take a lot of clear pictures with a digital camera so they are clearer so that you can show up or refer to them when reassembling. Hope this helps.
Rob
The manual would not upload. Get it from Vinylengine.
 
Check the tonearm drive belt. If that slips, the logic controller will detect the motor running too much and it won't operate properly. You have to remove the plastic cover on the bottom side of the lid to access it. The motor is over on the left side, under the bulge in that cover. On the SL5 I had, the belt was stretched, the rails for the arm carriage needed a clean and re-oil (just a very light wipe of sewing machine oil) and the gears needed a re-greasing in order for it to run correctly. I also re-lubed the spindle, but thats not related to this issue.

Also see if the arm lowering solenoid is sticky. Memory is slightly fuzzy on this but if I remember right, you should see a short silver colored rod on the bottom side of the tonearm near the back pivot area. Thats the solenoid. I believe you should be able to use a pick or a small screwdriver to carefully get hold of it and move it. I seem to remember that it pushes down to allow the arm to drop, and returns to the up position to raise it. It has to power in order to drop, and its a spring return.
 
guys here is the picture under the lid .KIndy tag the location of the component you want me to check .
 

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Unplug the table from power. You need to check the belt on the left. Carefully see if it's loose. Also remove it for inspection. The belt may be worn out or hardened.

With the belt removed, see if the little black motor turns freely.
 
The belt is all the way at the left, at the motor. The arm lift is the crank looking device all the way on the right side on the bottom of the arm. Its got a brass tip on it and the crank itself is black. Make sure that can be moved.
 
When mine did that, it was because the lube on the slide rails had turned to glue. And looking at your picture, it looks like yours are caked with glue as well. Clean those rails good and relube with light oil.
 
I just got the technique sl 5 and am having the same issue. I am going to attempt to clean the rails and relube. hopefully thats all it will need. all your information is helpful. pictures are helpful.
 
Just received an SL-5 in great condition, the guy I bought it from played through an entire record without any issues. I just set it up and put in a brand new cartridge and now it's skating. Any suggestions?
 
Josevoge said:
Just received an SL-5 in great condition, the guy I bought it from played through an entire record without any issues. I just set it up and put in a brand new cartridge and now it's skating. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

I'd start with a new drive belt, before doing anything else. The sole exception would be if it's ridiculously dirty inside, I might look at the arm sensors. But still, replace that belt before you tinker elsewhere. Unless you know that belt is performing at 100% you're putting a bandaid on it all.
 
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