Technics SL-7 Tonearm cord/rope replacement

[rs732]

Has anyone had any success in making or replacing the cord/rope that drives the linear tonearm? This is a common problem on these units and surpised aftermarket replacements are not available.

 

[rs732]

Anyone?

 

[Chubba]

I think mine had very thin aircraft type cable.Hobby shops should have something suitable.Cheers

 

[mateiux]

Just got myself an SL-7 now and I completely refurbished it. The rope looks the same as the one used for radio dial indicators ... radio dial cord (do an ebay search there are lots of options). Very odd setup on mine as it is looped twice over the main gear, the manual has no loops, not sure if it was replaced or that is how it's supposed to be. Question for others: do I need to grease it? I cleaned all the old grease and re-greased the helical gear, main shaft, pulleys but not the cord. Oddly enough before it was soaked in what looked like graphite grease.

 

[HPMguy]

Do not grease the cord, it works better dry.

Grease was probably from someone over-doing the grease earlier.

 

[newzealand]

Anyone?

i made one for my sl-10 , i used tuner cord,works well,

 

[mccalljd]

Here is a re-post I just made to another thread about this subject.
Recently replaced the drive carriage cord on an SL-7. I had to find some radio dial cord approximately the same diameter, and then I removed the old cord and cafreully measured and marked it for length on the new cord. The best way to do that was to lay it stretched out and lay the new cord (also stretched tight) against it, leaving about 3 inches on either end. Since you can't get the crimp open to put the new cord in and crimp it back down, I simply tied it into a knot with both ends at the place I marked it at. To keep it from loosening up, once I had the knot tied for the correct loop length (took a few tries to get it correct), I cut the ends off, dabbed some glue on the cord, and put the knot in the same space on the spring wheret the crimp had been positioned. I had hoped to be able to open the crimped portion of the carriage ferrule (the part that fits in the carriage to drag it along) by driving a small tapered pin through the hole, but the brass is brittle on these things and the crimped portion broke part of the side out. No matter. Once I positioned the ferrule in the carriage and adjusted the cariage and tonearm into place, I carefully dabbed a bit of 3M weatherstrip adhesive on the ferrule at both ends, getting it on the ferrule and the cord. Once it dries for 24 hours, there is no way the ferrule will ever come loose. The unit now works as good as new, especially after replacing the belt and the capacitors on the board. It was a PITA, and I hope I never have to do that again to another unit, but it can be done. Not sure if I was just lucky or skilled enough to do it, but it worked.

 

[rs732]

Here is a re-post I just made to another thread about this subject.
Recently replaced the drive carriage cord on an SL-7. I had to find some radio dial cord approximately the same diameter, and then I removed the old cord and cafreully measured and marked it for length on the new cord. The best way to do that was to lay it stretched out and lay the new cord (also stretched tight) against it, leaving about 3 inches on either end. Since you can't get the crimp open to put the new cord in and crimp it back down, I simply tied it into a knot with both ends at the place I marked it at. To keep it from loosening up, once I had the knot tied for the correct loop length (took a few tries to get it correct), I cut the ends off, dabbed some glue on the cord, and put the knot in the same space on the spring wheret the crimp had been positioned. I had hoped to be able to open the crimped portion of the carriage ferrule (the part that fits in the carriage to drag it along) by driving a small tapered pin through the hole, but the brass is brittle on these things and the crimped portion broke part of the side out. No matter. Once I positioned the ferrule in the carriage and adjusted the cariage and tonearm into place, I carefully dabbed a bit of 3M weatherstrip adhesive on the ferrule at both ends, getting it on the ferrule and the cord. Once it dries for 24 hours, there is no way the ferrule will ever come loose. The unit now works as good as new, especially after replacing the belt and the capacitors on the board. It was a PITA, and I hope I never have to do that again to another unit, but it can be done. Not sure if I was just lucky or skilled enough to do it, but it worked.

Do you recall the diameter & length of the cord? Unfortunately, the original cord on my SL-7 was ripped in 3 parts.

 

[mccalljd]

Do you recall the diameter & length of the cord? Unfortunately, the original cord on my SL-7 was ripped in 3 parts.

The diameter I used is 0.65 mm, with is slightly larger than what was on it. I just measured the old cord and it looks to be 17 1/4 inches long. It was cut right at the brass crimp where it attaches to the spring..

 

[rs732]

I ordered some dial cord & crimps. Anticipating this might be a challenge but should keep me busy over the holiday break. Thanks for your help.

 

[mccalljd]

I ordered some dial cord & crimps. Anticipating this might be a challenge but should keep me busy over the holiday break. Thanks for your help.

I have found that tying a knot in the cord where the crimp was that fits into the spring loop allows you to untie it to correct the tension if you get it too loose or too tight. Using the crimp in that spot means you have to be dead certain you have the length correct. Once you have the knot at the proper length, a little superglue on the knot will keep it from coming apart when you trim off the excess cord. I just did another one today using the same method.

 

[mccalljd]

I ordered some dial cord & crimps. Anticipating this might be a challenge but should keep me busy over the holiday break. Thanks for your help.

Oh, and keep any grease off the cord. That seems to be why the outside covering on the cord disintegrates and falls apart.

 

[rs732]

Oh, and keep any grease off the cord. That seems to be why the outside covering on the cord disintegrates and falls apart.

Made a few attempts to replace the cord but had to give up. I might have to just scrap it for parts.

 

[gaseff]

I have found that tying a knot in the cord where the crimp was that fits into the spring loop allows you to untie it to correct the tension if you get it too loose or too tight. Using the crimp in that spot means you have to be dead certain you have the length correct. Once you have the knot at the proper length, a little superglue on the knot will keep it from coming apart when you trim off the excess cord. I just did another one today using the same method.

Hello - resurrecting... What do you do at the ferrule that connects to the head? I think I am in the same predicament. When installing the new cord, how do you get the ferrule to stay connected to the cord? Thank you in advance.

 

[mccalljd]

A dab of 3M super weather strip adhesive in front and back of the ferrule will keep it in place forever.

 

[gaseff]

Thanks!