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Technics SL1210-GR Janky Cue Lever

I received a Technics SL-1210GR today and the cueing lever/mechanism seems horrible for an $1800 turntable.


After lifting the lever up, the tonearm drops back down a few mm. It won't stay up all the way and drops down in a jerky manner. It also seems like there is no dampening at the top of the range and then once it drops, it comes down smoothly the rest of the way. I don't have another one to compare it with, but the mechanism doesn't seem like this should be this janky.

Is mine defective?
 
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I received a Technics SL-1210GR today and the cueing lever/mechanism seems horrible for an $1800 turntable.


After lifting the lever up, the tonearm drops back down a few mm. It won't stay up all the way and drops down in a jerky manner. It also seems like there is no dampening at the top of the range and then once it drops, it comes down smoothly the rest of the way. I don't have another one to compare it with, but the mechanism doesn't seem like this should be this janky.

Is mine defective?
My G was a bit naff when I got it in this respect but it quickly smoothed up.
Chris
 
That’s how mine is for the most part. It was worse out of the box. After I fiddled with the height it was more useable. Still a bit spongy at the top and yes not acceptable for an $1800 table. The lever on my AT LP120 is better and that table cost a couple bills.
 
I did exchange my SL-1200GR for another one but it really isn't much different either. After all the attention to detail on the rest of the turntable, its ridiculous that Technics would sign off on that piece of the design with a fundamental flaw. I saw in a video that the problem manifests itself because there is a toothed gear and a straight gear that interface with each other that controls the raising and lowering of the lift arm. The problem seems to be that 1. the teeth on the gears aren't fine enough and 2. they don't extend past the top of the lift range. So what winds up happening is the slop at the top of the range is actually the straight gear "leaving the teeth" of the other gear. Wtf technics.
 
I decided that I would check out a Technics sl 1200 mk2 to see what all the fuss was about, I purchased a used one in good condition and stripped it down in order to look at its condition and build quality, and yes I was impressed, so after a clean and service I connected it up in my system and played a couple of my best albums, I could not knock its sound quality but I asked myself if this was all I wanted it to be? all the DJ equipment was wasted as I wouldn't be using it, so I was left with its sound quality, as good as it was, it was not better than my Kenwood KD 990 and lost out to my Garrard 401, I just couldn't find a place for it so it was returned it and got a refund, its like the old saying about horses for courses.
 
I decided that I would check out a Technics sl 1200 mk2 to see what all the fuss was about, I purchased a used one in good condition and stripped it down in order to look at its condition and build quality, and yes I was impressed, so after a clean and service I connected it up in my system and played a couple of my best albums, I could not knock its sound quality but I asked myself if this was all I wanted it to be? all the DJ equipment was wasted as I wouldn't be using it, so I was left with its sound quality, as good as it was, it was not better than my Kenwood KD 990 and lost out to my Garrard 401, I just couldn't find a place for it so it was returned it and got a refund, its like the old saying about horses for courses.
The Mk2 needs the arm tube lined (5 bucks if you able to rewire it, also a damper is a positive mode, the Psu is a big upgrade, with just the arm liner the 5 buck mod you will fine the mk2 is better than most tables, with the other mods it is up with some serious competition. I have 4 SP10mk2s, a Commonwealth (two actually), a Lenco a few other turntables oh and a sl1200G, the mk2 modded is very close to the latter, even the same but not close stock.
Chris
 
. . . the mechanism doesn't seem like this should be this janky.
I did see your later post and appreciate the updated information. Sorry you're having issues with your turntable. How are you liking it apart from the cueing operation?

I mainly just wanted to comment on the word "janky." I think this is only the second time I've come across it, and the first was in a comparative review of the Pro-Ject Debut Pro and the SL-1210GR (at the Darko Audio YouTube channel), and that reviewer described the Technics cueing mechanism as "super janky" while the Pro-Ject was "buttery smooth." One website told me janky is regional slang originating in New Jersey. Always fun to learn new words!
 
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My MK7, which is over 2 years old at this point, doesn't have that problem with the cue lever dropping at the top. It only moves when I want it to. Not sure what is causing these problems. I have seen the gear mechanism apart and understand the differences in design, but I don't know if the design was changed over the production cycle, or if something else is off. Again, I don't have this problem. My cue lever stays put.
 
I did see your later post and appreciate the updated information. Sorry you're having issues with your turntable. How are you liking it apart from the cueing operation?

I mainly just wanted to comment on the word "janky." I think this is only the second time I've come across it, and the first was in a comparative review of the Pro-Ject Debut Pro and the SL-1210GR (at the Darko Audio YouTube channel), and that reviewer described the Technics cueing mechanism as "super janky" while the Pro-Ject was "buttery smooth." One website told me janky is regional slang originating in New Jersey. Always fun to learn new words!

It's been great otherwise. It has a classic look and a solid, well built feel to it. It also does a much better job than any other turntable I've had of damping vibration. I have some sorbothane pads under the feet for a little extra dampening. My SP-25 in cheap plinth would jump the needle out of the groove if you sat down in the chair too hard.

There are a few things that made me go with the 1210GR instead of the other similar Technics models. It was the model with all the things I wanted: the strobe (it looks cool and serves as a visual confirmation that you have your speed set properly), the hinged dust cover, the cue light, and the pitch slider. The SL1200MK7 was so close, but I didn't feel like putting the dust cover on the floor or leaning it against the shelf every time I wanted to play a record. That was just asking to get broken.

Paired with the VM540ML, it tracks the inner grooves wonderfully.

In terms of the "sound" of the turntable itself , I don't put a lot of stake in turntables really "sounding" different. I think for the turntable itself, the mechanicals are much more important: speed stability, vibration dampening, good rumble characteristics, proper adjustments for anti-skate, azimuth, tracking force, etc.

The cartridge/stylus/arm working together together provide good tracking. Matching the appropriate input impedance and having low capacitance from the cartridge to the phono stage has a much more pronounced real-world impact on the tonality of the playback than anything else. When I finally got my Yamaha C-4 preamp up and running with its adjustable input capacitance/loading, I could flip between them in real time and really hear the differences it made.

As for the word janky, I never knew it was a regional thing. It's quite common here in Pittsburgh, PA too. It's interesting that the Darko Audio channel and I came to the same conclusion about it even though I never saw his video.


My MK7, which is over 2 years old at this point, doesn't have that problem with the cue lever dropping at the top. It only moves when I want it to. Not sure what is causing these problems. I have seen the gear mechanism apart and understand the differences in design, but I don't know if the design was changed over the production cycle, or if something else is off. Again, I don't have this problem. My cue lever stays put.

Can you take a video of you lifting the cue arm all the way up and letting go of the lever? It doesn't make sense how a bunch of people can say they have the same problem, yet a few people don't. I'd love to see a video of one working properly.
 
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Can you take a video of you lifting the cue arm all the way up and letting go of the lever? It doesn't make sense how a bunch of people can say they have the same problem, yet a few people don't. I'd love to see a video of one working properly.

Not right now, you'll have to take my word for it. My turntable is over 2 years old, and was manufactured a bit before that. Many people reporting this issue are dealing with stuff from the current run, which seems to have more issues. Exchanges for QC issues are fairly common now. Probably due to ramping up production based on demand.
 
I received a Technics SL-1210GR today and the cueing lever/mechanism seems horrible for an $1800 turntable.


After lifting the lever up, the tonearm drops back down a few mm. It won't stay up all the way and drops down in a jerky manner. It also seems like there is no dampening at the top of the range and then once it drops, it comes down smoothly the rest of the way. I don't have another one to compare it with, but the mechanism doesn't seem like this should be this janky.

Is mine defective?
I just bought an SL-1210GR from Guitar Center -$1,800 in November, 2023. Same exact issue you are having.

Totally unacceptable for an $1,800 turntable. Heck, my Hanpin built Audio Technica AT-LP1240 cueing puts the Technics to shame.

I don't know whether to exchange it for another sample, or just get a refund.

Some people say they do not have this cueing issue. That makes me think that somewhere along the production run, the issue was either induced or rectified.
 
I did exchange my SL-1200GR for another one but it really isn't much different either. After all the attention to detail on the rest of the turntable, its ridiculous that Technics would sign off on that piece of the design with a fundamental flaw. I saw in a video that the problem manifests itself because there is a toothed gear and a straight gear that interface with each other that controls the raising and lowering of the lift arm. The problem seems to be that 1. the teeth on the gears aren't fine enough and 2. they don't extend past the top of the lift range. So what winds up happening is the slop at the top of the range is actually the straight gear "leaving the teeth" of the other gear. Wtf technics.
I would love to see the video that you mentioned about the toothed gear.

If you can find it again, please post a link.

Thanks
 
It's been great otherwise. It has a classic look and a solid, well built feel to it. It also does a much better job than any other turntable I've had of damping vibration. I have some sorbothane pads under the feet for a little extra dampening. My SP-25 in cheap plinth would jump the needle out of the groove if you sat down in the chair too hard.

There are a few things that made me go with the 1210GR instead of the other similar Technics models. It was the model with all the things I wanted: the strobe (it looks cool and serves as a visual confirmation that you have your speed set properly), the hinged dust cover, the cue light, and the pitch slider. The SL1200MK7 was so close, but I didn't feel like putting the dust cover on the floor or leaning it against the shelf every time I wanted to play a record. That was just asking to get broken.

Paired with the VM540ML, it tracks the inner grooves wonderfully.

In terms of the "sound" of the turntable itself , I don't put a lot of stake in turntables really "sounding" different. I think for the turntable itself, the mechanicals are much more important: speed stability, vibration dampening, good rumble characteristics, proper adjustments for anti-skate, azimuth, tracking force, etc.

The cartridge/stylus/arm working together together provide good tracking. Matching the appropriate input impedance and having low capacitance from the cartridge to the phono stage has a much more pronounced real-world impact on the tonality of the playback than anything else. When I finally got my Yamaha C-4 preamp up and running with its adjustable input capacitance/loading, I could flip between them in real time and really hear the differences it made.

As for the word janky, I never knew it was a regional thing. It's quite common here in Pittsburgh, PA too. It's interesting that the Darko Audio channel and I came to the same conclusion about it even though I never saw his video.




Can you take a video of you lifting the cue arm all the way up and letting go of the lever? It doesn't make sense how a bunch of people can say they have the same problem, yet a few people don't. I'd love to see a video of one working properly.
Here at the end of June 2024 and I just setup my first (pricy) SL-1210GR and have the exact same problem right out of the box. All I can say is that it is in fact super janky on the top end, but smooths out just before it gets to the record. I’ll probably try to mess with the height a bit, but it’s exactly where it should be. I have a 50 year old Dual that puts this lever action to shame.
 
My new SL-1200GR2 has the same issue, I raised it a bit (tiny screw adjusts the height) so that it didn't drop so much right at first... the important thing is that is is very smooth as it gets close to the vinyl, so much so that I can put the stylus down onto a record silently. The 1/8" drop at the very top is just something you get used to...
 
I also have an issue of weak tonearm lift on my Technics 1210GR which I purchased brand new from Richer Sounds in the UK. My one seems to sag initially and then more so with time, my 1210mk2 do not have this issues and are rock solid.

Have we worked out whether this is a design fault which they all suffer from? Or is this perhaps a bad batch and there GRs out there which do not have the issue?

I contacted Panasonic and they have advised the deck needs a service.

Here is a video illustrating the issue:
 
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