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Technics SL1700 mkII help

cchean

cchean

Super Member
OK, I scored a Technics SL-1700 mkII on CL. Upon bringing it home, I noticed two things:

01. Auto return and lift are not working.
02. the motor is noisy

I read in another thread that issue #1 is either due to a bad pulley or a bad belt. Any advice on where I can find these parts? Any thoughts about the noisy motor? Thanks.

Carlos
 
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1) Indeed, you need a new pulley belt. I used a rubber band to gauge the size then went to a local tech to get a belt slightly smaller but more taut.

2) Which motor? Tone arm or platter? The Tonearm/cue arm motor is a bit noisy when you engage it. You can hear the pulley spooling.
 
Platter motor

mythless said:
1) Indeed, you need a new pulley belt. I used a rubber band to gauge the size then went to a local tech to get a belt slightly smaller but more taut.

2) Which motor? Tone arm or platter? The Tonearm/cue arm motor is a bit noisy when you engage it. You can hear the pulley spooling.
Click to expand...
 
Put two small drops of oil in around the bottom of the spindle and that should take care of the motor unless you have a bad barring which on one of those is a possibility but I doubt it as those, unless damaged in some way run almost forever.

You can get the technics oil at KAB. Some use hi end synthetic motor oil but I'd go with the stuff from KAB.
Also do a search here as you will find tons of info on your table and it will save you from having to post a lot of questions...............

Good luck.
 
FWIW - I use a 1 3/8" ID x 1/16" O-ring for the automation belt in my 1700mkII. Would be surprised (& worried) if the spindle were dry enough to cause appreciable noise... might be platter rub; suspension springs may have weakened enough with age to allow the platter to contact the upper deck.
 
scotthal said:
FWIW - I use a 1 3/8" ID x 1/16" O-ring for the automation belt in my 1700mkII. Would be surprised (& worried) if the spindle were dry enough to cause appreciable noise... might be platter rub; suspension springs may have weakened enough with age to allow the platter to contact the upper deck.
Click to expand...

I didn't think of that good point, to the OP can be adjusted so no biggie.
 
Hi

So, when you press the cue button can you hear the motor spinning?
If you can, then it is the belt, there is an easy way to find out, remove the platter and you'll see a black cover underneath, remove that, the 'lift' motor is just to the left of the tone arm assembly (check for a belt or worn out belt), in the meantime while you have the platter off oil the spindle and check for rub marks on the plinth, if the spindle bearing is gone one can be had for $30.00 +S&H from KABUSA.
Now for the bad news, if the belt is intact and the motor does not spin, you are looking at a bad transistor on the motor control board.

John

check this thread http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=335541 this is my own experience with a SL1700MKII and the usual cueing problems, and if you search AK you'll find a couple dozen other similar threads
 
Last edited:
scotthal said:
FWIW - I use a 1 3/8" ID x 1/16" O-ring for the automation belt in my 1700mkII. Would be surprised (& worried) if the spindle were dry enough to cause appreciable noise... might be platter rub; suspension springs may have weakened enough with age to allow the platter to contact the upper deck.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the valuable info. Any idea where I can find the O-ring in small quantity?
 
Zodia said:
Hi

So, when you press the cue button can you hear the motor spinning?
If you can, then it is the belt, there is an easy way to find out, remove the platter and you'll see a black cover underneath, remove that, the 'lift' motor is just to the left of the tone arm assembly (check for a belt or worn out belt), in the meantime while you have the platter off oil the spindle and check for rub marks on the plinth, if the spindle bearing is gone one can be had for $30.00 +S&H from KABUSA.
Now for the bad news, if the belt is intact and the motor does not spin, you are looking at a bad transistor on the motor control board.

John

check this thread http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=335541 this is my own experience with a SL1700MKII and the usual cueing problems, and if you search AK you'll find a couple dozen other similar threads
Click to expand...

Hey John, thanks for your help.

I haven't opened it up yet. Made another testing last night. When I turn on the TT, there's no noise until the platter starts spinning. Now, the curious part: when I put the tonearm back to the armrest, the platter stops spinning but the noise is still there! I am not sure if it's a mechanical noise anymore. Any ideas?
 
Just go to your nearest Plumbing Supply place they have O rings and can match up the one you need plus you won't have to buy a verity.
 
Pio1980 said:
If the belt hasn't been replaced yet, it's the arm servo motor trying to reset the cueing mechanism.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the hint! I will start with the belt then.

So, if only a belt change is needed, I don't need to bother with the bottom screws?
 
Nope, just take off the platter and the top covering and the 2 pulleys should be to the right. Just use some long needle nose pliers. Very easy fix.
 
cchean said:
Hey John, thanks for your help.

I haven't opened it up yet. Made another testing last night. When I turn on the TT, there's no noise until the platter starts spinning. Now, the curious part: when I put the tonearm back to the armrest, the platter stops spinning but the noise is still there! I am not sure if it's a mechanical noise anymore. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
What Pio1980 said, it appears you have an easy fix.
Pio1980 said:
If the belt hasn't been replaced yet, it's the arm servo motor trying to reset the cueing mechanism.
Click to expand...
 
Zodia said:
What Pio1980 said, it appears you have an easy fix.
Click to expand...

Just finished reading your thread. Wow, amazing! Lots of valuable info in there... Would you replace the transistor in a working board or would you follow the saying, "if it ain't broke..."
 
Well, it does seem to be a common failing part, but...If it ain't broken... but at least now you know which components you need if it does fail, so it is your choice really.

John
 
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