technics su v9 selector cables
- Thread starter markdi
- Start date
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They were lubed at the factory. This amplifier was picked up as a freebie off of Craigslist. The original owner had purchased it overseas at the PX. I didn't ask a lot of questions about it. But there were additional audio components and definitely evidence of being stored in a basement for a long period of time. For some reason and I would guess that the cable had not been actuated for such a long time that enough resistance there allowed the sprocket teeth to strip the cut outs in the inner band or input selector slider switch was frozen in position. After disassembling the slider switch I don't think that was the issue. These sliding switches were also lubed by the factory. The input selector switch wouldn't budge but I was assuming that the rotary switch had the integrated contacts which is typical. If I knew about these cables I would have nursed the cable in to movement...even removing the slider switch. After removal of the slider switch they can be disassembled and inspected/cleaned/relubed if necessary.
The remote actuator cables cannot be relubed without removing either the input selector switch, which requires removal of the faceplate. To remove the slider switch from the equalizer board just unsolder it. Once unsoldered the plastic cap tangs can be levered enough to pop the white plastic cap off of the cable end. If you can get one end of the cable disconnected the PVC jacket can be slid off and lube can be applied to the inner band.
If the switches are smooth acting and free of corroded switch contact symptoms I would leave them alone. If they bind do not force them. Do whatever disassembly that has to be done to allow inspection and movement of the inner band within the outer band. Relube as necessary.
The remote actuator cables cannot be relubed without removing either the input selector switch, which requires removal of the faceplate. To remove the slider switch from the equalizer board just unsolder it. Once unsoldered the plastic cap tangs can be levered enough to pop the white plastic cap off of the cable end. If you can get one end of the cable disconnected the PVC jacket can be slid off and lube can be applied to the inner band.
If the switches are smooth acting and free of corroded switch contact symptoms I would leave them alone. If they bind do not force them. Do whatever disassembly that has to be done to allow inspection and movement of the inner band within the outer band. Relube as necessary.