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Telefunken console

When I first started recapping antique radios, I tried really hard to use the same voltage caps, but it turns out that not only can you not find them that low, it doesn't matter a bit. As long as the physical size will fit - and the new ones are generally smaller than the old paper foil ones - and the voltage rating is no lower than the original, you're good to go. I've put a lot of 630v caps into radios to replace 250v and 400v originals, just because I got them cheap.
 
Yeah, that's what I ended up doing. I placed an order at Mouser and ordered about 30 new caps. I like that you can put your own customer number on each cap you order. I just put the SAM number on each one so I can refer to it when it comes time for me to replace them and not get confused as to which one goes where. I got my order yesterday and each bag is neatly marked and has the caps all separated out. That satisfies my OCD like you wouldn't believe.

Thanks to the help of Omegaman, I'll now have a new turntable and plinth to replace the missing one on my Concerto, along with a Telefunken name badge to replace the missing one. Things are definitely starting to look up!
 
Well, I took the plunge tonight and started replacing caps on my Tele. For a first try, I don't think I did too bad. At least, I don't think I messed anything up, but I did make a mistake in choosing new caps that didn't have long enough leads on them. There are 2 that I can't replace with new caps simply because the new ones will not reach. But still, I'm trying to be as careful and thorough as I can.
The one thing I have not tried yet is replacing the rectifier or the big electrolytics. I'm fairly sure I can get the can out, it looks to be held on by metal tabs that I can straighten out, but I'm a little nervous that I'm gonna mess it up.
So, maybe by tomorrow night I'll have replaced everything that I know to replace. I feel like I have questions but I don't know what they are. I just want to get this thing working like its supposed to and looking like it did many years ago from when I remembered it as a kid.

Thanks for listening.
 
Well, I took the plunge tonight and started replacing caps on my Tele. For a first try, I don't think I did too bad. At least, I don't think I messed anything up, but I did make a mistake in choosing new caps that didn't have long enough leads on them. There are 2 that I can't replace with new caps simply because the new ones will not reach.

Just cut the leads of the old caps right next to the cap itself, and use that as an extension. It may be a bit fugly, but the electrons wouln't mind.
 
Complete and total fail. Replaced all the caps, except 1, and electrolytics. Checked my work, worked very slowly and carefully (I put in about 10 hours on this thing over the last 2 nights) and I plug it in, just to see if I get any power...it lit up for 2 seconds and then pfft. THere is a 1 amp fuse on it, which might have popped, but I dunno. So, I set the chassis back in the console and put it away for awhile. I've been thinking and obsessing over this for too long. Time for a break and when I have a clearer head, I'll go over it again and see if I can figure it out.
 
Any updates on this project? I have started recapping one as well.
Welcome to AK!!
The original poster (OP) Jeff Kempin hasn't been seen here Jan 5, 2019 so you probably won't get a response from him on his project.
You should post a new thread detailing your project. There are many console lovers here who can guide you in the right direction. And keep this in mind, we LOVE pictures!
 
Jeff’s experience above is a great illustration of the value of using a Dim Bulb Tester when firing up after your repair work.

It could very well be that all his rework was good, but that the unit drew more than 1 amp at initial start. The solid state HT starts charging the filter caps instantly, and the filaments haven’t warmed but they are drawing current. A bulb would have absorbed this and, if all was really well, would have dimmed. I wish I had seen this back at the time.
 
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