dnewma04
The Healer
I have nothing to do with this...keep me out of it.
Look at this neat pic I found in my photobucket account...
The "$250" Amp? - 6LU8 Compactron SE, UL
- Thread starter Wigwam Jones
- Start date
I have nothing to do with this...keep me out of it.
Look at this neat pic I found in my photobucket account...
The Hammond box of choice for the amp would be the 17x10x3 box. You want the 3" depth to hide the iron under the hood. That torroid is mighty, but also mighty ugly. The Edcors have exposed high voltage and are no beauty queens, either.
Someone mentioned something about the heater supply on this amp. We are using a single 6.3 winding to fire the 6LU8 tubes, and the other 6.3 winding goes to the rectifier. Each winding is rated to 5A. You could run the entire heater supply off of a single winding if you wanted to.
The heaters in this amp are AC, not DC. DC would require more circuitry, draw more current, and not buy you much. This amp is dead quiet with AC heat. If you build it with correct wire dress in regards to the heaters, there will be no problems with AC heat in this implementation. I would avoid DC heat for this application.
Someone mentioned something about the heater supply on this amp. We are using a single 6.3 winding to fire the 6LU8 tubes, and the other 6.3 winding goes to the rectifier. Each winding is rated to 5A. You could run the entire heater supply off of a single winding if you wanted to.
The heaters in this amp are AC, not DC. DC would require more circuitry, draw more current, and not buy you much. This amp is dead quiet with AC heat. If you build it with correct wire dress in regards to the heaters, there will be no problems with AC heat in this implementation. I would avoid DC heat for this application.
dnewma04
The Healer
Drawing is for those who want to make their own top plate rather than using a Hammond chassis.
Two power tubes towards the bottom are 1.25" diameter for the specific sockets I am using on mine, I need to confirm with Ed on what he has and see if there is some sort of standard that should be followed here. I have a pair of sockets from Bricktop that are 1.0625". I might just supply the top plate with a centering hole and let Ed or the end user cut out or pick a standard socket to use.
Between the power tubes, in the center is the triode/UL switch which is 1/4"
RCA Inputs are 3/8" and just above each power tube.
Above the RCA inputs is a row of 9/64" holes for the output transformers. The 3.25" is from the outside of the holes, not center to center. Center to center spacing is 3.125".
Above that are the binding post holes which are .5" each.
The power tube, RCA input, Binding posts, and output transformers are centered for each channel in the pic.
Rectifiers on the right lower area 1" for the 9 pin and 1.125" for the octal.
The IEC socket is pretty obvious, it's .75" tall by 1.0625" (1 - 1/16) wide.
The two holes to the right of the IEC are .5" for the fuse and the power switch, respectively.
In the middle right section is the hole for the mounting bolt for the toroid. It's 1/4" diameter.
The rest of the holes you see are 1/8 or 9/64" depending on the screw hardware you want to use.
Two power tubes towards the bottom are 1.25" diameter for the specific sockets I am using on mine, I need to confirm with Ed on what he has and see if there is some sort of standard that should be followed here. I have a pair of sockets from Bricktop that are 1.0625". I might just supply the top plate with a centering hole and let Ed or the end user cut out or pick a standard socket to use.
Between the power tubes, in the center is the triode/UL switch which is 1/4"
RCA Inputs are 3/8" and just above each power tube.
Above the RCA inputs is a row of 9/64" holes for the output transformers. The 3.25" is from the outside of the holes, not center to center. Center to center spacing is 3.125".
Above that are the binding post holes which are .5" each.
The power tube, RCA input, Binding posts, and output transformers are centered for each channel in the pic.
Rectifiers on the right lower area 1" for the 9 pin and 1.125" for the octal.
The IEC socket is pretty obvious, it's .75" tall by 1.0625" (1 - 1/16) wide.
The two holes to the right of the IEC are .5" for the fuse and the power switch, respectively.
In the middle right section is the hole for the mounting bolt for the toroid. It's 1/4" diameter.
The rest of the holes you see are 1/8 or 9/64" depending on the screw hardware you want to use.
Maron
Always Learning
I was happy to see that all the brains behind the project were all in such close proximity to each other ( and me
) . I dont think I have ever seen that before on a board . All the more reason for me to jump on board . 
Maron
Always Learning
Is the Hammond project box you guys are talking about made out of aluminum ? I scanned through the previous posts looking for the link ( yes I did read the whole thing ) . I believe it was Squidward that posted a link for it .
I'm just wondering if I could make the box out of wood . I have some cocobola that i could not use on customer humidors because I didnt like the way the grain matched up . A cocobola base with a satin aluminum top plate would look incredible !!!!
I'm just wondering if I could make the box out of wood . I have some cocobola that i could not use on customer humidors because I didnt like the way the grain matched up . A cocobola base with a satin aluminum top plate would look incredible !!!!
I would recommend that whatever chassis was used had at least a 3" base, as you'll need it to hide the hefty iron. If I were to be purchasing a Hammond box, I would indeed buy the 10x17x3 aluminum box. Making it out of a nice exotic wood with an aluminum top plate would be beautiful. I would be tempted to use the 10x17 drill guide centered on a piece of 11x18 aluminum sheet, so that you'd have some extra edge on the top to mount to the wood.
Maron
Always Learning
That looks pretty cool using a cake pan . What are you going to use to make a top plate for it ?
Kegger
R.I.P. 1/12/1966 - 6/1/2017
The amp made it there, but the speakers we had available just wouldn't have
worked in that setting with the sheer number of people and volume needed to.
Dan and I ran out to Radio Shack to get some jacks to use the speakers he'd
picked up off craigslist on his way (which I abruptly paid for, thanks Dan) the
speakers are some big JBL 98db suckers, but was time for Ed to leave by then.
We hooked up the little Maggie 5w EL84 amp and it worked just fine, so would
the 6LU8 amp of as well. I've heard the 6LU8 amp quite a bit and it is a keeper!
--------
Maron you are welcome to join our group and come out to these events,
Just move ever to the SMAC forum and ASK/PM JEFF.
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=151
. .... i should have realized that ...
Glassweights
Compulsive about tubes
Oh Dang, cake pan looks good!
Oh my,
I am impressed at how cool the cake pan is looking.
You don't by any chance have a list of what you bought for it to assist with the BOM project do you? Might give people ideas and I was thinking it might be a cut and paste for ya if they emailed you lists?
I always really worry I am not making good choices when I buy parts . . . so it takes me a long time!
Very cool. I like that metal capacitor, what is it. (type/size)
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Also, that new layout for the 11x17 posted looks good. I am assuming the in/out are all on the top to 1) make it simpler to punch or 2) make it easier to put wood or whatever sides on? Or both?
Dan
Oh my,
I am impressed at how cool the cake pan is looking.
You don't by any chance have a list of what you bought for it to assist with the BOM project do you? Might give people ideas and I was thinking it might be a cut and paste for ya if they emailed you lists?
I always really worry I am not making good choices when I buy parts . . . so it takes me a long time!
Very cool. I like that metal capacitor, what is it. (type/size)
----------------------------------------------------------------
Also, that new layout for the 11x17 posted looks good. I am assuming the in/out are all on the top to 1) make it simpler to punch or 2) make it easier to put wood or whatever sides on? Or both?
Dan
sled108
Super Member
The Caps & Misc. parts come from Allied with the Poly Audio Caps from Parts Express. The Choke & Resisters come from Radio Daze...The Metal Cap. is a 25uf Motor Run from Allied...The Edcors, whenever they get here will probably go on top too..I'm working on an As-Built wiring Diagram now, but it seems that the Snap-In Caps are a bit harder to deal with then I thought.
