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The AR-XA / Technics tonearm tube swap thing.

ekimlive

Member
Hi all,

So after doing this on accident...
View media item 21474
I'm going to attempt to rewire my AR-XA and swap the tonearm wand for a Technics wand as recommended by sfrost on the official AR-XA thread. On that auction site, I'm about to purchase a Technics "S" tonearm replacement for a 1200, and also a Technics headshell, so I got that bit covered. I'm about to order some Cardas wire from Moon Audio—is the 33x4 Braided Bulk Tonearm Cable as seen here
https://www.moon-audio.com/cardas-bulk-tonearm-4x33-wire.html
going to do the trick? How many feet should I get, especially as I'm basically a beginner? Won't I also need another wire for the ground?

Also, as a beginner, should I even consider paying 10 times the amount of 1 foot of the bulk cable and get this:
https://www.moon-audio.com/cardas-pcc-er-cartridge-clips-with-tonearm-wire.html ? Obviously, I'd rather not spend $100, but would it end up being less of a headache?

Thanks in advance for any help!
 
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The arm tube that we have used as a replacement on an AR turntable is off the SL-220. I would double check before buying the 1200 tube. It may not work. (Maybe Steve or Jose can chime in on that). Any Technics type headshell will work.

You don't need wire with clips attached, just raw wire about 15" for each color. You need four wires (blue, white, green and red). You will solder the wires to the collar on the Technics arm tube. In addition you will need about 10" of black for the ground that will attach to the pivot block. Those lengths are just a bit longer than you will probably need but you don't want to run short.
 
The arm tube that we have used as a replacement on an AR turntable is off the SL-220. I would double check before buying the 1200 tube. It may not work. (Maybe Steve or Jose can chime in on that). Any Technics type headshell will work.

You don't need wire with clips attached, just raw wire about 15" for each color. You need four wires (blue, white, green and red). You will solder the wires to the collar on the Technics arm tube. In addition you will need about 10" of black for the ground that will attach to the pivot block. Those lengths are just a bit longer than you will probably need but you don't want to run short.
Thanks, Stuart! I pulled the trigger on everything but the arm tube—I couldn't find any SL-220 tonearm tubes specifically and couldn't find info on anything else compatible...
 
Any of the newer technics arm tubes will work, all the same size, the SL1200 down to the cheapest table as long as they have the newer collar. The ones with the older collars have a wand thats too short. The wands usually come with an insert with a ground attachment, use that and not the block, makes a better attachment point.
 
The wands usually come with an insert with a ground attachment, use that and not the block, makes a better attachment point.

HERESY!!!!!......just kidding.

We do use then old ground point on the block. But then we also do some additional damping of the arm which would preclude the use of the original ground pin in the original tube.

Good to know on the ability to use multiple model arms. I have only observed the use of the SL-220 arm , and have seen some other S style Technics arms that were the wrong length.
 
Would be interested in the damping your using that precludes the use of the ground clip in the arm. I use the KAB internal damping tube that really deadens the tube, you can literally drop the tube on the table and it will not bounce.
 
Yes, looking at that collar, same as a 1200 arm, is the one you need, little pricey though. Usually can get them for $10-15 less.
You can use one of the wires that comes with the arm as a ground wire, usually about 12” long.
 
Would be interested in the damping your using that precludes the use of the ground clip in the arm. I use the KAB internal damping tube that really deadens the tube, you can literally drop the tube on the table and it will not bounce.

It is typical Marc Morin experimentation, thought and design. We carefully run heat-shrink tube through the wand (so as to not disrupt the collar connection) and then insert pieces of ear plug foam at specific points in the tube to minimize harmonic resonances. We run the wires along the top of the tube and use the AR terminal for the ground, then we braid all 5 of the wires from the pivot block to the underside connections.
 
Yes, looking at that collar, same as a 1200 arm, is the one you need, little pricey though. Usually can get them for $10-15 less.
You can use one of the wires that comes with the arm as a ground wire, usually about 12” long.
Perfect! Thanks for your help—I'm sure I'll have more questions once all this stuff arrives!
 
Something to consider too is the diameter of the Technics tube you will use. If the diameter is too small you'll need to add something to the outside of the tube to give it a snugger fit. Marc used copper film which is what we use.
As sfrost said, watch the pricing, that one in the link you supplied is definitely pricey
 
View media item 22139So... now I have this bad boy handy—this is a tonearm tube from a Technics SL-D2. As you can see, the original wires are still attached...
View media item 22140I take it these will be no good (too short?) to use for the AR-XA? How would I remove these wires? Would it involve these two screws?
View media item 22141Thanks in advance for any guidance!

Yup. You're on the right track. If you remove those two screws you'll find that the collar that the headshell is attached to will come out of the wand and you'll see where the wires are attached. You might take the headshell off first.
 
Nice job,
probably is time to put some earplugs inside the tonearm.
there is a lot of information about how its help.
Andre.
 
Yup. You're on the right track. If you remove those two screws you'll find that the collar that the headshell is attached to will come out of the wand and you'll see where the wires are attached. You might take the headshell off first.
View media item 22145Perfect! Thank you so much.

All the wires came off with the collar, except for the ground, which sticks out just over 6" and appears to be soldered into a metal piece inside the other end of the wand?
View media item 22146Probably too short to be of use in connecting to the XA?
 
I just pulled that ground thing out with needle nosed pliers. It isn’t needed because the arm is grounded behind the pivot and it is impossible to get the earplugs in with it there. It’s just a friction fit.
 
I just pulled that ground thing out with needle nosed pliers. It isn’t needed because the arm is grounded behind the pivot and it is impossible to get the earplugs in with it there. It’s just a friction fit.
Done and done! The tube is now completely hollow and ready for dampening, methinks?
 
You will get different opinions on grounding the Technics tube on an AR arm. Marc Morin would pull the ground tab out of the tube and use the original AR design to ground the arm. For damping, he would insert a piece of shrink tube into the hollow arm, short enough to not interfere with the connections on the collar, and the insert four small pieces of ear plug foam Spaced out into the tube to eliminate resonances and harmonics.
With as much time as I was able to spend with Marc this is what I would recommend.
 
Many S arm tubes would work as well, I know that pioneer will.... just have to cut about 1/2 inch off on some.

That is why I just buy the cheapest Arm off the bay and take the bayonet and put it on the AR arm tube, just little sanding of the inside of the AR arm tube.

Nashou
 
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