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The Cockeyed Dirtybird (Dual 1009SK)

Nice work!
My SK had a brown idler like yours originally. No matter what, I could Never get it to grab the platter without slipping. Replaced it with the black rubber type - so you may want to keep your eye on that brown idler.
 
AJD1964 said:
Nice work!
My SK had a brown idler like yours originally. No matter what, I could Never get it to grab the platter without slipping. Replaced it with the black rubber type - so you may want to keep your eye on that brown idler.
Click to expand...
Oh yeah, this one is toast. I thought it was hard plastic and missing the tire at first. It has flat spots in it where the motor pulley has spun against it. I see the need for the idler wheel to be firm if there is no pitch control. It needs to keep an exact diameter to maintain the perfect RPM. I'll find a replacement, eventually.
 
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olddude55 said:
Looks great! That spindle...gotta wonder if someone tried to make a single play spindle out of a stacker.
You might know this already but just in case...in order to use the deck in Manual mode, you have to move the arm over to the LP in groove, then move the start/stop lever to "Manual." The 1000-series decks won't automatically start when you move the arm towards the record.
I would have liked this function on the 1200-series decks, too. Gotta unplug the 1219 in order to check the VTF.
Click to expand...
I've looked closely at the spindle and I'm quite sure it is a cut down stacker. My guess is that it was somehow bent and this was someone's way of making is a useful single play spindle. Someone took extra care to grind off the pin that sticks out.
This plinth appears to be home-made. Someone did an excellent job, they were a real craftsman. This person is probably dead and gone, but their handiwork lives on. I intend to honor their effort by utilizing this plinth.
 
Looks great. The early pic were rough. I did not have much hope for it. I have extra idler wheels. PM if interested. I have 1219s. Don’t need the these 1000 series wheels. Free to a good home. Another place I use for replacement needles is Gary at voiceofmusicenthusiests. Have a 1219 with a Pickering XV-15. Got a generic from Gary for around $20. Some my frown on these here. Sounds good though. Also, you could spend a little more and get a JICO. Have theses on my other 1219s with a Shure M55 and M91ED. Good luck.

Eric
 
stereofisher said:
Looks great. The early pic were rough. I did not have much hope for it. I have extra idler wheels. PM if interested. I have 1219s. Don’t need the these 1000 series wheels. Free to a good home. Another place I use for replacement needles is Gary at voiceofmusicenthusiests. Have a 1219 with a Pickering XV-15. Got a generic from Gary for around $20. Some my frown on these here. Sounds good though. Also, you could spend a little more and get a JICO. Have theses on my other 1219s with a Shure M55 and M91ED. Good luck.

Eric
Click to expand...
Thanks, I always have high hopes for things in disrepair. That doesn't always pan out though.
I sent you a PM.
Right now I'll settle for any old needle that works relatively well. Once the system is all set up, I can seek to strengthen each weak link. I could see a stylus or cartridge being a weak link in a system.
 
There was corrosion on the headshell and the outer edge of the platter.
I gave it a brushed aluminum look that matches the trim.
I think there is another model of Dual that has a headshell that looks like this.
F4A9C8EE-653D-4F01-99B7-EF0CD190013F.jpeg
 
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William907 said:
Oh yeah, this one is toast. I thought it was hard plastic and missing the tire at first. It has flat spots in it where the motor pulley has spun against it. I see the need for the idler wheel to be firm if there is no pitch control. It needs to keep an exact diameter to maintain the perfect RPM. I'll find a replacement, eventually.
Click to expand...

Technically the diameter of the idler has nothing to do with the speed. The idler shouldn't be firm, it should feel like rubber. The idler has dried out to the point where it can't provide enough friction to rotate the platter especially when auto functions are engaged.

Gary at VOM audio enthusiasts provides rebuilt idlers at reasonable cost. You'll need to send your old idler to him and when he receives the "core" he'll send you out an idler with new rubber.

The table is looking good so far, keep up the good work.
 
likebike23 said:
Technically the diameter of the idler has nothing to do with the speed. The idler shouldn't be firm, it should feel like rubber. The idler has dried out to the point where it can't provide enough friction to rotate the platter especially when auto functions are engaged.

Gary at VOM audio enthusiasts provides rebuilt idlers at reasonable cost. You'll need to send your old idler to him and when he receives the "core" he'll send you out an idler with new rubber.

The table is looking good so far, keep up the good work.
Click to expand...
I guess the diameter wouldn't matter much. The pulley will move the idler a certain distance, and the idler will move the platter the same distance, as long as the idler doesn't compress more on one surface than the other.
 
The Cockeyed Dirtydird seems to be running a little fast. Hmeep hmeep
I clocked it with a couple different apps on my iPhone.
One app you actually put the phone on the mat and let it spin around.
The other is an adjustable strobe that uses your camera flash.
It's not 20% faster like you would expect to see if it had a 50Hz pulley, just a little fast.
The strobe said it was spinning at 80.5 RPMs when it should have been 78.
The strobe doesn't work too well at the slower speeds, but it might if I had a strobe disc.
The spinning iPhone app clocked it at different speeds on different attempts, anywhere from 78.09 to 80.85
33-1/3 showed speeds of 33.40 to 34.0
There will be a little additional drag when there is an actual stylus touching a spinning record,
maybe that will slow it down a little.
Parts are on the way. A different idler wheel may make a minor difference.
image.jpeg
 
I have read somewhere on AK that idlers always run a little fast, with the idea being that as the wheel ages it might slow a bit, and people notice a little slow before they notice a little fast. I am no expert, I just recall seeing that. I have an old Garrard idler that I was working on and my speeds with a rebuilt wheel (if I remember correctly, was from VOA) and speeds were about where you say yours are.
 
kmp14 said:
I have read somewhere on AK that idlers always run a little fast, with the idea being that as the wheel ages it might slow a bit, and people notice a little slow before they notice a little fast. I am no expert, I just recall seeing that. I have an old Garrard idler that I was working on and my speeds with a rebuilt wheel (if I remember correctly, was from VOA) and speeds were about where you say yours are.
Click to expand...
I guess if it matters that much to me, I should get a Dual with pitch control.
That's a good enough reason to buy another turntable, isn't it?
 
I'm impressed with how good this sounds.
I'm not all that surprised, it's mainly what I expected, but I hardly had to do any tweaking.
Everything works; manual, automatic, stacker spindle, everything.
 
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