The False Claim that You Should Only Use Deoxit F5 on Pots

Aleksei77

Active Member

I have now had extensive further discussions with the manufacturers and contained in this article are, I hope, the answers to these questions. Hopefully this one can now be ‘put to bed’. Here is a summary of the questions and concerns:

1. D5 lists many uses on the side of the can but it does not list ‘potentiometers’. The implication is that this product should not be used on potentiometers.

2. F5 specifically mentions potentiometers on the can. The implication is that only this (DeOxit) product should be used on potentiometers.

3. D5 contains mineral spirits. These are harmful to carbon tracks. F5 does not contain mineral spirits. The implication is that here is more proof that this is the one to use for potentiometers. All three of these implications are false. Summary TL/DR

• Neither D5 or F5 are harmful to carbon track potentiometers.

• Both D5 and F5 use mineral spirits as a flushing agent, in exactly the same proportions, i.e. 75%

• D5 will work on all carbon track potentiometers regardless of if the problem is surface contamination or oxidisation of the metal wiper.

• F5 was formulated for conductive plastic faders/pots. The lubrication is important in these components.
F5 will not help with oxidized metal parts as it contains no deoxidization chemical.

• In the latest packaging, DeOxit D5 has ‘potentiometers’ on the list of uses on the side of the can. Here is the full explanation. Since the earliest days of electronics the search has been on for a solvent which would clean switch contacts, potentiometers and suchlike. For decades the ‘go to’ solution was Freon. It flushed away contaminants and evaporated rapidly. However, as we now know Freon is very environmentally damaging and is banned in most countries. The search was then on to find an alternative. For some time MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) was used as an organic solvent but this is still fairly damaging and attacks many plastics. Mineral spirits were then used as the ‘least worst’ option (environmentally). There are many different formulations and strength of ‘mineral spirits’ – it is a catch-all term. DeOxit D5 uses mineral spirits as the flushing agent. A ‘flushing agent’ is the chemical which washes away surface contaminants mostly via mechanical action. DeOxit D5 uses one of the milder formulations and strengths of OMS (Odourless Mineral Spirits). The sole purpose of the mineral spirits in D-Series products is to flush (wash) away surface contaminants. Despite ongoing myths to the contrary, mineral spirits do not attack or ‘eat’ carbon. In addition to the mineral spirit flushing agent, D-Series products also contains an anti-oxidisation formulation, the effect of which will now be explained. A potentiometer consists of two surfaces in contact with each other. Commonly this is a metal ‘wiper’ and a carbon track. The mineral spirits in D-Series will wash away surface contaminants (dust, grease, dirt etc.). Many other solvent sprays will do the same of course, even alcohol will do this. but sometimes the metal wiper contact is oxidised. In this case no amount of solvent spray will improve the potentiometer. The deoxidisation chemicals in all D-Series sprays will remove the oxidation from the metal surfaces. It is this dual action which makes it so effective on potentiometers. Aside: I have many times tried isopropyl alcohol and other solvent sprays on pots. It seems to work about 50% of the time. The other 50% of the time it does not work. If I then use D5 on the same pot, it is completely fixed. In these instances, I believe the metal contact was oxidised and required the deoxidisation chemicals in D5 to cure it – alcohol and many other sprays have no effect on oxidisation. There are 3 products in the D-Series. Here is what each one does.

1. DeOxit D5 – as described above. A mineral spirits ‘flush’ to remove contaminants. Then a powerful deoxidiser to remove oxidation from the metal wiper. Downside - you can overspray and as it doesn’t evaporate it needs mopping up.

2. DeOxit DN5 – if you don’t need a flushing action this product delivers the deoxidiser via a fast evaporation solvent. Good for more precise delivery of the deoxidation element and no residual liquid.

3. DeOxit D100S This is 100% deoxidation product with no solvent delivery chemical. FADER F5 Product This product was specially formulated for linear conductive plastic film slider potentiometers. E.g. Faders on mixing desks. It contains the same percentage mineral spirits (75%) as D5. It also has a lubricant to aid fader travel. This product can also be used on potentiometers. However, if the potentiometer is faulty due to metal oxidisation on the wiper, then a better product would be the D-series (e.g. D5). Very Old/Valuable Potentiometers. With very old and worn potentiometers it might not be advisable to use any spray with a flushing action as the mechanical action of this may under rare circumstances further loosen any material, Instead use DN5 for accurate delivery. Summary TL/DR

• Neither D5 or F5 are harmful to carbon track potentiometers.

• Both D5 and F5 use mineral spirits as a flushing agent, in exactly the same proportions, i.e. 75%

• D5 will work on all carbon track potentiometers regardless of if the problem is surface contamination or oxidisation of the metal wiper.

• F5 was formulated for conductive plastic faders/pots. The lubrication is important in these components. F5 will not help with oxidized metal parts as it contains no deoxidization chemical.

• In the latest packaging, DeOxit D5 has ‘potentiometers’ on the list of uses. I hope this provides a full explanation and draws a line under this topic.
 
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THANK YOU.
I'm not stupid but I do find the various formulations of Deoxit to be confusing TO ME.
I think this post/thread helps relieve my confusion.

It's VERY confusing!

Then you telephone the company and end up even more confused and uncertain. I just 'did what they told me on the phone and it worked out fine.
 
Oh, and here's my recent experience with D5. I have a Heathkit AR-29 receiver and it has been a wonderful receiver. Recently, the tuning started to be too sensitive to movement and had difficulty staying on a station, often losing it with accompanying noises.

I knew it was probably the tuning capacitor and that it was probably dirty/oxidized. Usually, the correct procedure is to remove the capacitor (the assembly with the blades which move and interweave in various amounts as the the tuning knob is turned). Then disassemble and completely clean all parts involved, reassemble, and reinstall.

However, I didn't really want to remove the assembly which requires disconnecting several wires plus the dial cord. So, I decided just to remove the mounting screws and tilt the assembly just enough to release one side of the flexible cover and spray (actually dribbled) some D5 on the bearings/contacts in the middle of the rotating shaft. These are made of brass.

Perfect operation was immediately restored and has remained so for several weeks now.

Doug
 
what about on plastics - how do the various versions of deoxit affect plastics? there are stories of deoxit causing problems on the Sherwood combo power switch/volume pot.
 
Mineral spirits, which is petroleum-based, is harmful to polystyrene type plastics over time, turning it brittle and even causing it to crumble, worst case. However, polystyrene isn't used in the assemblies (by reputable manufacturers, anyway) we are talking about here and mineral spirits is harmless to almost all other plastics.

Doug
 
It's VERY confusing!

Then you telephone the company and end up even more confused and uncertain. I just 'did what they told me on the phone and it worked out fine.
I agree. And then I read on the internet about cleaning different switches to use one product if it slides, another product if it clicks, and another product if it spins.
And follow up with this product if you used that product but only on the proper switch...

I'm not attacking the product as I have a can of D5, a can of F5, and a "tech kit" containing numerous variations of products and applicators.
Maybe I am stupid...maybe it all makes sense to others as to which product to use for a "control cleaning".
 
I had D5 kill a pot on a late 80s yamaha, now keep in mind I have cleaned 100s of pots with D5 with no issues and I just spritz and never douse. I use F5 and CRC now and Gold for plated contacts. Still have a can or two of D5 from before they changed the can and still use it on cruddy wafer switches and such but I prefer the smoothness of pots and sliders after using F5. For the really stubborn ones I have a can of industrial contact cleaner I found that was banned because of some chemicals in it, the can was found full and should last for a long time, I use a mask when its needed.
 
Good summary! I've cleaned pots forever with D5 and have never damaged anything. It almost always works well on switches, but I've had switches in NAD equipment where it just couldn't bust through whatever was making them intermittent. Isopropyl alcohol got the job done, though it's not my usual go-to. I followed it up with D5.

F5 (Faderlube) has a lubricant but remember it's very low viscosity. If you flush the damping grease out of a pot, F5 isn't going to restore the feel, only prevent wear.

Last comment- if you deal with very old equipment, or test equipment, use caution. We just don't know what materials were used or how they've changed over the years, so a blanket statement that no harm will come is risky. With test equipment, you might be dealing with very high impedances. If old phenolic switches or boards absorb cleaning chemicals, they may never perform correctly again. In those cases I use a very small applicator and only touch the metal contact areas.
 
naphtha... i.e. (white gas, lighter fluid, spraying thinner, Coleman fuel),.. + 5% d100 = D5

not mineral spirits ... i.e. (paint thinner)

....and some refrigerant as a propellant

Naphtha is fast evaporating
Mineral spirits is slow evaporating and leaves oily residue

roll yer own and apply with a syringe
 
F5 is a miracle product when you need conductivity in a switch. Faderlube in pots is the same. I used it on 70 year-old ones ten years ago and they are still smooth and quiet.
 
What is irritating is the lengths some people will go to to attack a great product. The same happens to WD-40. One wonders what the motive is. Did somebody from the company turn them down for a date?

Doug
Concern on wd40 is not unfounded from 1st hand experience .. I worked for one of world's largest connector coy and tested wd40 at outside lab to find corrosive elements.

Great for loosening up rusted bolts and nuts but not for delicate electronics .. we banned use of wd40 in said coy.

Cheers.
 
If old phenolic switches or boards absorb cleaning chemicals, they may never perform correctly again.
very true, I had to fix a Sprague TO-6 cap tester that had been bathed in D5. Took a fair bit of CRC QD to get it flushed out of the switches before it would behave itself again. The old phenolic just soaked it up and created leakage paths, which was more than enough to upset the low current leakage test functions.
 
While often times necessary to rejunvenate older equipment, some of these products ruin the nice, slow resistance feel of certain types of pots (mostly electrical contact cleaner, not so much DeOxit, but the best "cleaning" usually starts with electrical contact cleaner as a flush, followed by DeOxit). It's hard to know if cleaning will have this effect on your equipment until it's over and done with and too late to do anything about. They may turn a dial with a quality, restitive feel into a squeaky, cheap feeling one.
 
While often times necessary to rejunvenate older equipment, some of these products ruin the nice, slow resistance feel of certain types of pots (mostly electrical contact cleaner, not so much DeOxit, but the best "cleaning" usually starts with electrical contact cleaner as a flush, followed by DeOxit). It's hard to know if cleaning will have this effect on your equipment until it's over and done with and too late to do anything about. They may turn a dial with a quality, restitive feel into a squeaky, cheap feeling one.
That's where you need to replace the damping grease. There are several places the manufacturer might have put it, including places people say it shouldn't be and non-obvious places. These include the shaft bushing, the resistive track itself and rotating parts to the rear, sometimes specifically designed for the purpose, and including detents. Nye is a good source.
 
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