PioneerPro
Active Member
Is it dangerous to hollow out the can and put the 2 caps inside of it?
And why didn't anyone laugh at my #14 post except Boochie?
The Fisher 70-RT Repair
- Thread starter PioneerPro
- Start date
And why didn't anyone laugh at my #14 post except Boochie?
I wouldn't restuff the can if a new one is available.
I hope you have a photo of the wiring before you remove the can. It'll make refitting the new one much easier.
If you’re only concerned with lighting up the eye tube, then why bother restuffing? That’s just more work. And I’m an avid restuffer! For aesthetics, you can remount the original can without making the connections.
Oh yeah, #14. Had to go back……
PioneerPro
Active Member
Yes I took photos and not only that, I made a detailed diagram.
Now before I order the C69 Capacitor are you guys sure it is necessary with the values my cans are showing. Please look at my second diagram.
I've included pics of the tops of the cans if that helps determine how old they are?
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That's up to you. But I thought the Magic Eye wasn't working. Weren't the cap cans implicated in the problem?
You can put them back in and see if you can get the Eye to work.
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PioneerPro
Active Member
No the cans were not 100% implicated it's just that they are connected to the main tube and removing the main tube made the DBT go dim.
My questions is what do you think of those numbers?
I do not know the tolerances for Tube Stereo Can Caps? is it 5% or 20% ???
The numbers may not mean much, since the cans aren't being tested in a powered-up circuit.
Put the cans back in and see if you can fix the Magic Eye. That is the only way you'll know for sure.
PioneerPro
Active Member
Here it is all cleaned up and ready to reassemble.
Since the C70 Capacitor will be two separate Capacitors upon reassembly does the (Brown Green Black Silver) resistor that goes between the two leads on the C70 cap need to go back in or can it just be omitted?
Since the C70 Capacitor will be two separate Capacitors upon reassembly does the (Brown Green Black Silver) resistor that goes between the two leads on the C70 cap need to go back in or can it just be omitted?
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It has to go back!
If you look at the schematic Gadget posted in #15, you can see it is placed between the positive terminals of the 2 caps of C-70. Since the can itself was grounded to the chassis, you must do the same with the negative terminals of the replacement caps. Just tie them together and solder to the lug of the now "dummy" can that you'll re-install. Make sure it is well grounded.
Before you solder anything, situate all the components and check in just to make sure.
If you look at the schematic Gadget posted in #15, you can see it is placed between the positive terminals of the 2 caps of C-70. Since the can itself was grounded to the chassis, you must do the same with the negative terminals of the replacement caps. Just tie them together and solder to the lug of the now "dummy" can that you'll re-install. Make sure it is well grounded.
Before you solder anything, situate all the components and check in just to make sure.
PioneerPro
Active Member
Does this look right. The top is what it use to look like and the bottom is what it is now with the two separate capacitors.
The bottom left corner of the old Can Cap measured 634 uf so I assume it is the 500 uf end. The upper right corner of the old Can Cap measured 1201 uf so I assume it was the 1000 uf end.
The bottom left corner of the old Can Cap measured 634 uf so I assume it is the 500 uf end. The upper right corner of the old Can Cap measured 1201 uf so I assume it was the 1000 uf end.
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Kinda hard to make out all the connections but it looks good. One comment: best practice is to not have floating connections. The positive terminal of the black cap connected to the 15ohm resistor, connected to the white wire seems to be just that. If you could extend that close terminal strip to serve as a solid tie point, the danger of inadvertently shorting the whole thing out would be greatly reduced.
PioneerPro
Active Member
Not sure what you are saying here? I will be putting heatshrink on all the exposed Positive ends. As long is the wiring is correct in the diagram I made is good, is what I care about right now. I will finish the work after the new C69 Can Cap gets here.
