The Idiot's Guide to Using DeOxit (revisited)
- Thread starter Arkay
- Start date
sKiZo
Hates received: 92644 43.20°N 85.50°W
Good luck with that. You can try, but it takes an extreme amount of luck and/or cleaner to get into the switch that way. You can also cause some interesting <in the Chinese way) problems with overspray.
Not familiar with that particular machine, but you almost always need to remove the front panel to do it right. You <may> get lucky and get good access by removing the bottom panel - assuming that's removable. Objective is to spray cleaner into any and all access points - either small holes, or the slide itself - preferably both. Try not to get any overspray either on the boards or case. A paper towel held around the switch catches any drips and dribbles.
Old trick that might help if you're not into digging and having problem directing the spray properly - heat the red straw and put a bend into it right near the end. That's right handy for a linear pushbutton, allowing you to point and shoot while keeping the can upright.
Seriously though - if one switch is giving you trouble, the rest aren't far behind. Bite the bullet and get to ripping - you always wanted to anyway, right? <G>
PS - here's one I'm working on right now to give you an idea what one of these things look like if you are really into doing it right.
Keep us posted ...
Not familiar with that particular machine, but you almost always need to remove the front panel to do it right. You <may> get lucky and get good access by removing the bottom panel - assuming that's removable. Objective is to spray cleaner into any and all access points - either small holes, or the slide itself - preferably both. Try not to get any overspray either on the boards or case. A paper towel held around the switch catches any drips and dribbles.
Old trick that might help if you're not into digging and having problem directing the spray properly - heat the red straw and put a bend into it right near the end. That's right handy for a linear pushbutton, allowing you to point and shoot while keeping the can upright.
Seriously though - if one switch is giving you trouble, the rest aren't far behind. Bite the bullet and get to ripping - you always wanted to anyway, right? <G>
PS - here's one I'm working on right now to give you an idea what one of these things look like if you are really into doing it right.
Keep us posted ...
sKiZo
Hates received: 92644 43.20°N 85.50°W
Hey, jump on in. What's the worst that can happen?
zzzzzzzzZZZZZAAAAAAAAAAP!!
Not to flog a somewhat less than lively horse, but you can actually damage pushbuttons by just hosing them down indiscriminately. Check this out:
This is a fairly typical high end pushbutton. If you'll notice, the front part of the switch (the part you'd be spraying if you were to just poke a straw into the panel) is the mechanical section that has the stuff that makes it go click. All the electrical connections are towards the rear or bottom in most cases. That mechanical section has bearings and pivots that are lubed with heavy grease - which the DeOxit can thin to where it'll drip out and cause premature failure.
So what you're looking at is a three step process. Clean the entire switch with contact/board cleaner/degreaser, DeOx the electrical contacts, then re-lube the mechanical section. If it's working good mechanically, feel free to skip steps one and two - your call, but as long as you're in there ... just saying. I'd also touch up the contacts with Pro Gold. That stuff is magic.
zzzzzzzzZZZZZAAAAAAAAAAP!!
Not to flog a somewhat less than lively horse, but you can actually damage pushbuttons by just hosing them down indiscriminately. Check this out:
This is a fairly typical high end pushbutton. If you'll notice, the front part of the switch (the part you'd be spraying if you were to just poke a straw into the panel) is the mechanical section that has the stuff that makes it go click. All the electrical connections are towards the rear or bottom in most cases. That mechanical section has bearings and pivots that are lubed with heavy grease - which the DeOxit can thin to where it'll drip out and cause premature failure.
So what you're looking at is a three step process. Clean the entire switch with contact/board cleaner/degreaser, DeOx the electrical contacts, then re-lube the mechanical section. If it's working good mechanically, feel free to skip steps one and two - your call, but as long as you're in there ... just saying. I'd also touch up the contacts with Pro Gold. That stuff is magic.
Last edited:
Artie
Super Member
This is one of those things that you'll get a "feel" for as you try the different products. Each persons techniques may be different. Here's a couple good places to start:
"Which do I choose?"
Deoxit D-Series
Here's my two personal favorites: (The products at the very top of the page.)
D5
D100L
One is the diluted spray and the other is the full-strength bottle.
http://store.caig.com/s.nl/it.I/id.26/.f
http://store.caig.com/s.nl/it.I/id.27/.f
I use D100 for almost everything, esp pots.
I had a small spray can of gold but it's missing :tears:
http://store.caig.com/s.nl/it.I/id.27/.f
I use D100 for almost everything, esp pots.
I had a small spray can of gold but it's missing :tears:
Cogsinister
Super Member
I know this is my first post but THANK YOU!!!!
Following your guide I was able to fix most of the issues with my fathers Marantz 1030 and now it is ready to go back to work.
Welcome to AK, and well done !!!!
Frank Zappa
Active Member
Would brake cleaner work as a substitute for DeOxit in a pinch?
Cogsinister
Super Member
Looking good! Nice job.
