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The shop messed up the brake job on my car.

They likely adjusted the rear brake shoes . The shoe adjusters generally have to be retracted to pull the drums , in order to replace the shoes. Several hard stops , while in reverse , will usually activate the self-adjusters on rear drum brakes. The emergency brake ('hand' brake) , activates the rear brake. Glad you got it sorted out.
 
Would have sworn that 9.3 had rotors and pads on the rear as most Saabs do. Doesn't matter though, long as you're safe again.
 
cabinover said:
In today's vehicles there is plenty of brake fluid reservoir capacity to overcome the amount displaced from thinning pads/shoes.

The biggest problem with adding brake fluid besides the leak problem is when you install that set of new pads/shoes where is the extra fluid going to go? That's right, out the top of the reservoir and onto the firewall or frame. There goes the paint on that spot.
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True. When ''disk pads'' wear the pistons on disk brake calipers only plung out farther with pad wear taking more fluid from the reservoir.When new pads are installed and pistons are pushed back ''home'' in the calipers,the fluid will rise in the reservoir.If fluid has been topped off before the worn pads are replaced,well, your right. It will make a mess lol.

Another thing some folks don't think about is when bleeding the brakes, don't fully depress the pedal untill the master cyl piston bottoms out.That is not good as it can cause seal damage in the master cly. Only if I replace a master cly will I even pump the brakes bleeding them, any other time I only gravity bleed them.Brakes are not very complex but some shops will hire anyone I guess.
 
jhal said:
I have been working on cars off and on professionally for the last 18 years and have never given a customer back their car until it was fixed properly.
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You are the guy I ask my neighbors about. "Who do you take your car to for work?" Usually within a few inquiries you start seeing a pattern as to who you go to and who to avoid.
 
I'm happy to hear they got it sorted out. Sounds like the tech was playing "beat the clock" on Flat Rate and it came back to haunt him. The number one problem with car repair today is Flat Rate pay. The mechanic gets paid a certain amount of time to fix the car, no matter how long it usually takes him to do it. Most of these times are way too low to allow the mechanic to fix it properly, so they take shortcuts to finish the job. That's why it is getting very hard to find good repair shops today. All of the great techs are going to other professions and the ones that stay are "upselling" (mostly unnecessary repairs) to survive. The car companies are cutting warranty pay times to unrealistic levels to the point these guys can barely pay their Snap-On bills. Try replacing cylinder head gaskets on a 6 liter Powerstroke in a day. That's what they (Ford) pay, and the cab has to come off of the truck to do it properly.
 
Reminds me of GM brakes... Every vehicle I've driven that was made by GM has mushy brakes. They never seem to get the brakes right!

My Dodge Dakota has fantastic brakes. I only need to move that pedal a bit to stop normally, and need to push it maybe halfway to stop suddenly.

Anyway, yeah I suspect there's air in the lines as well. I'd have those guys fix it, then find a new brake shop. Hitting that brake pedal, and watching it go all the way to the floor, and you're not slowing down fast enough is a SCARY feeling!

EDIT: Glad to hear its fixed.
 
Web Police said:
If your master cylinder has a seal leak the fluid can get sucked into the vacumm booster and then into the intake manifold and into the engine where it produce very white smoke.

I had it happen one time and my car was like a jungle fogger. :D
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I figured it must be something like that since the vacuum line would be the only physical connection between the engine and the brake system. My experience with vacuum boosters is nill........ I just haven't had problems with them, and my truck doesn't have one, as it's all hydraulic.
 
Glad to hear they got the problem fixed and you can safely stop your vehicle now! I had to take my car to the dealer last week to get a new headlight switch installed ( the original one quit working). The only problem was they put one on that had no provision for turning on the factory installed fog lights. In my state you have to have your vehicle inspected annually, and whatever lights are on it have to work. So had to take it back a second time so they could put the correct switch on! Paid $230 and they couldn't get it right the 1st time. :no:
 
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