• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

The 'sound' of dust caps

I've always been able to re-use the original dust caps in the few cases where I had to remove them. Just cut it with a sharp blade flush with the cone and glue it back on with white glue. Leave it attached on one side so it's easy to get it back on in exactly the right position. The glue will hide the cut when it's dry. Just be careful not to cut through the cone!

Here's an example on a Polk. You'd never know it had been removed.
 
Last edited:
rickr15 said:
By mortite do you mean the stuff that looked like dried plumbers putty? These are currently not sealed with anything as 1 of the thread holes was stripped on each cab and I was going to install T-nuts all the way around and then seal with some kind of silicone.
Click to expand...

Well there you have it. :D These, and all acoustic suspension speakers MUST be completely sealed and air tight or the bass response will be totally ruined.

Your lack of bass is caused much more by them not being sealed than by any wrong dust cap (although I agree that you should use ones as close to the originals as possible).

There usually isn't enough emphasis placed on the importance of matching original parts in speakers when these discussions come up.

I hate it when some of these so-called professional speaker repair places out there completely get it wrong when redoing some of the vintage drivers. Of course, I am not talking about you guys involved in this forum.

It's gotten bad enough so that when I read an eBay listing and it is stated that the woofers were recently professionally refoamed, I cringe and imagine another pair of of dorked up speakers.

Rant over.:D

Doug
 
I don't know why you guys want to mess with putty or silicone sealent for drivers. I just use the closed-cell self adhesive foam gasket tape (weatherstrip) available from Parts Express or your local ACE hardware.... :dunno:

Tape goes on the cabinet, and you can easily remove the drivers in the future....
 
I used a refoam kit for my Large Advents from these guys, http://www.new-foam.com/ the DC's come in the "deluxe" kits, kinda expensive, I thought, but I had NO problems whatsoever. Use caulk rope between the driver and cabinet. Make sure you clean the masonite VERY thouroghly, before gluing in the new surrounds.

I did mine about a year ago, and they sound great! Like others said here, it's CRITICAL to seal the cabinets COMPLETELY, that is the only way you'll get bass out of them.

Maybe you should rebulid the xovers, too, while you have them apart. Those 40 year old capacitors can dry out, too. :music:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom