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Thinking and then re-thing recapping Infinity RS III crossovers

Emarks

New Member
I'm just getting started with a repair of a pair of Infinity RS IIIs. I have not tested the cross-overs yet with a signal generator and o'scope. However, I am expecting I'll need a re-cap of the crossovers. With this in mind, I did a cursory search of replacement capacitors and did not find any. Where do I find 1100 uf and 600 uf NP 100V electrolytic capacitors or any other high capacitance non-polar caps? I'm considering using polarized series caps to get the values I need, but I wonder about the quality of these caps. Most at not for audio and the tolerances and 20%. Should a consider using series polarized caps for the cross-overs, or would it be best to to try and reform the original capacitors?
 
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I'm just getting started with a repair of a pair of Infinity RS IIIs. I have not tested the cross-overs yet with a signal generator and o'scope. However, I am expecting I'll need a re-cap of the crossovers. With this in mind, I did a cursory search of replacement capacitors and did not find any. Where do I find 1100 uf and 600 uf NP 100V electrolytic capacitors or any other high capacitance non-polar caps? I'm considering using polarized series caps to get the values I need, but I wonder about the quality of these caps. Most at not for audio and the tolerances and 20%. Should a consider using series polarized caps for the cross-overs, or would it be best to to try and reform the original capacitors?
Correction "Thinking and then rethinking"
 
Some of us leave the large value bass caps as is, due to cost and/or size and replace the mid caps and (maybe) the EMIT cap. Some replace the EMIT cap, others say they rarely go bad, and might be part of the Infinity "sound".
It's ok to use higher voltage caps if that helps your search.
 
Where are you getting those cap value from?
Can find these caps anywhere. I'm going to check capacitance and ESR. Although I'm not sure what to expect for an ESR value.
 

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Some of us leave the large value bass caps as is, due to cost and/or size and replace the mid caps and (maybe) the EMIT cap. Some replace the EMIT cap, others say they rarely go bad, and might be part of the Infinity "sound".
It's ok to use higher voltage caps if that helps your search.

Thanks. It looks like EMIT cap is polypropylene film cap. So, might not change. I'm thinking of testing capacitance on larger value caps and ESR, but not sure what to except as a good ESR value.
 
Can find these caps anywhere. I'm going to check capacitance and ESR. Although I'm not sure what to expect for an ESR value.

He may have meant, are those values from the "official" schematic. Official schematics sometimes vary from the actual values installed due to revisions, production inventory, etc.
If you are sure your crossovers are original with no previous changes, you may want to visually check the installed cap values before placing an order.
Myself, I go with same values as installed if they are original and unmolested. Some say go with the official. Not sure, only guessing, the official may be the last version, but no proof.
 
I partially recapped my RSIIIBs, replacing all the electrolytics only. It definitely improved the sound in my experience, really opened up the midrange. I’ve been using the Mundorf E-caps and have been pretty happy with the results in the IIIBs and also the RS5Bs and Kappa 8s I’ve redone as well. Infinity used parallel caps in a lot of the later series to get big values in the woofer sections. The Kappa 8s have 1400uF cap for the woofer section and they did it with 2 500uF and 1 400uF cap in parallel.
 
No need to use polarized caps. Plenty of good NPE capacitors available. Easier than having to get double rated polarized caps, wired opposite to one another.

Jantzen and Mundorf make very good electrolytic caps. M.D.L. and Bennics are good too. And just parallel several caps together, for the larger values. Check Parts Express, Parts Connexion, Madisound, Meniscus Audio, and Sonic Craft. All sell good crossover caps. And Infinity often used a Mylar cap on the Emit. Replace that with a nice poly, for an improvement in sound too.
 
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Those are good caps in there i bet, replacing them might be a waste of time and money.
My rs5b's had no electrolytic, i replaced with dayton premium polys and they got pretty bright.
All old caps were in perfect spec.
 
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Thank so much for all your suggestions. And thanks for tracking down the MDL 1000 uF NP 100V. I am considering using this in parallel with a 100 uf NP to get me the 1100 uF needed for the cross-over. First I will take your advice and check the cross-over to see if it really needs replacement caps. I feel I my be getting too caught up in repairing these speaker. Had to replace one 8" driver ($70), refoam kit ($34) and cap. replacement will be ($80). The attached frequency response is what I hope to find. Although I am not quite sure yet on how drive and measure the cross-over with a frequency generator (50 ohms) and an O'scope.
 

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Those are good caps in there i bet, replacing them might be a waste of time and money.
My rs5b's had no electrolytic, i replaced with dayton premium polys and they got pretty bright.
All old caps were in perfect spec.

I replace the stock Infinity caps in mine with some Obbligato oil-in-paper caps and they sounded pretty sweet. Only thing is that they were a lot bigger.
 
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