Thorens TD-160 Mk 1 Tune-Up and Setup Project

[Timothy Flath]

There's been no impact on the shaft so I assume it's a worn bearing. It's not knocking at all times. It sometimes starts when I use a cleaning brush and then it goes away. I assume it will only continue to get worse over time.

A thrust bearing "may" be helpful in your case then. It lifts the shaft up off the base of the motor with the use of a very hard ball bearing and lubricant to smooth out the rotating shaft. Linked below is one of the ones I bought. I also heard Dave at Vinyl Nirvana used to sell a similar one. Not sure if he does anymore since he appears to have scaled back on servicing some Thorens models (according to the V.N. web site but worth a look if you are in North America). SRM-Tech is in the UK so shipping time is longer especially to here on the west coast of

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/SRM-TECH-TH...p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

 

[gadget73]

maybe you answered it in the vid (didn't watch that far) but is there any appreciable weight difference between the OE Thorens and the 3d printed shells ?

 

[Timothy Flath]

maybe you answered it in the vid (didn't watch that far) but is there any appreciable weight difference between the OE Thorens and the 3d printed shells ?

Since this 3D headshell mass/construct topic seems to have hit a nerve with many and despite the fact it was not my intention to go here with this video series, I shall endeavour to make this the subject of my next video. I think you and everyone will be surprised and interested with the results I have so far obtained with a calibrated digital scale. Like all answers it is not as cut and dry a subject as many would imagine. Stay tuned...

 

[gadget73]

Mostly I'm just curious if its close, it doesn't have to be bang-on the original weight. I've seen other things where the replacement headshells are different enough that you either have to add or remove aux weights and that wouldn't be appealing to me. Makes it less practical as a swappable spare. I'm totally fine with 3d printed parts though, this is the perfect kind of use for them.

also might have to see if I can use that headshell connector to repair my spare headshell. The plastic insulator inside is pretty crumbly.

 

[tnsilver]

The plastic insulator inside is pretty crumbly.

Yes, it's resin and it does arbitrarily crumble with time. Simone Lucchetti of Audio Silente makes replacements.

 

[Timothy Flath]

Hello again all,
A lttle comparison video of Headshells as promised earlier in this thread (2 posts up at #43). Please also see the YouTube comments section of the video linked below to watch other related videos that I created during the development of these headshells. I want to reiterate that this headshell design I made several years ago now is free for anyone to download, 3D print and use as per my original intent. That intent was merely to provide an inexpensive yet very effective alternative to the otherwise overly expensive replacement options that exist out there in the marketplace. I gain nothing from this endeavour so this is not a sales pitch. I have however seen some folks post these from time to time on ePray so buyer beware if someone is trying to charge $50+ for a headshell I designed that can be printed for pennies a copy on your own or a friend's printer. Having these available also provides folks with an option to have a couple of spare carts mounted on several headshells to swap out for different types of Genres of music etc. You will of course have to re-balance the arm each time but it is a lot simpler than a complete cart swap with lead wires etc in a single headshell. I personally believe it to be comparable to the original headshell in sound and performance but I am of course somewhat biased. I will therefore let you folks out there be the final judge. If you don't find it acceptable all I can say is "oh well, I tried".

Here is a link to some of the Thorens related models I have made available for anyone to use: https://www.thingiverse.com/navydiver/designs
I hope you enjoy...

 

[ranf1970]

Hey @Timothy Flath ,

I just wanted to thank you so much for putting this together. Being a fairly new owner to a TD-160 MK1, this video series has been truly helpful. Other members were also super helpful when I first got mine with issues and perceived problems that I thought I had.

Just wanted to give a shout out to all AKers that put these kinds of tutorials out (I know they are time consuming) and also to those who are always willing to help with their vast knowledge here on the forums!

 

[Timothy Flath]

Hey @Timothy Flath ,

I just wanted to thank you so much for putting this together. Being a fairly new owner to a TD-160 MK1, this video series has been truly helpful. Other members were also super helpful when I first got mine with issues and perceived problems that I thought I had.

Just wanted to give a shout out to all AKers that put these kinds of tutorials out (I know they are time consuming) and also to those who are always willing to help with their vast knowledge here on the forums!

Thank you kindly

 

[captskippy]

Another thank you, @Timothy Flath. New TD 160 MKII owner followed along and, 5 hours later over the course of two days, has the player running and sounding superb! FWIW, I left the foam in, running an OM 20 (without the added weight and still breaking in of course), and made sure everything was perfectly level & platter 6mm all the way around with the puck in place. With the puck I do not have a full 15 second bounce, more like 10 however I have not noticed any issues with footfalls yet. There is one odd thing, tonearm body will not level completely when the cartridge is level with a record (medium thickness*) and puck in place. To make it perfectly level I would have run out of adjustment with the cue arm. So I played with some spacers on the head shell and will just live with the 1/32 or so difference the tonearm is off from one end of the platter to the head shell. Cartridge is parallel to the vinyl and that's all that really matters I believe. This is the TP 16 MKII tonearm, sort of an odd duck in my opinion, however it is easier to twist and slide to get the perfect arc alignment. Installed the Q-Up, it works as described and I like it, however it launches with authority and creates a pop sound, not a big deal but FYI in case anyone is considering one. So thank you again @Timothy Flath for taking the time to make the videos.

* SD 8236, 14th pressing of Led Zeppelin II, undoubtedly one of the worst sounding copies in circulation at the local flea markets...but really nice weight to the vinyl

 

[Timothy Flath]

Here is the next fun installment in my video series:

 

[Timothy Flath]

The long awaited capstone piece - a brand spanking new DIY Dust Cover to give it some cool factor!
Note: Long video alert so please use the playback slider bar judiciously. Hope you enjoy...

 

[Timothy Flath]

Another thank you, @Timothy Flath. New TD 160 MKII owner followed along and, 5 hours later over the course of two days, has the player running and sounding superb! FWIW, I left the foam in, running an OM 20 (without the added weight and still breaking in of course), and made sure everything was perfectly level & platter 6mm all the way around with the puck in place. With the puck I do not have a full 15 second bounce, more like 10 however I have not noticed any issues with footfalls yet. There is one odd thing, tonearm body will not level completely when the cartridge is level with a record (medium thickness*) and puck in place. To make it perfectly level I would have run out of adjustment with the cue arm. So I played with some spacers on the head shell and will just live with the 1/32 or so difference the tonearm is off from one end of the platter to the head shell. Cartridge is parallel to the vinyl and that's all that really matters I believe. This is the TP 16 MKII tonearm, sort of an odd duck in my opinion, however it is easier to twist and slide to get the perfect arc alignment. Installed the Q-Up, it works as described and I like it, however it launches with authority and creates a pop sound, not a big deal but FYI in case anyone is considering one. So thank you again @Timothy Flath for taking the time to make the videos.

* SD 8236, 14th pressing of Led Zeppelin II, undoubtedly one of the worst sounding copies in circulation at the local flea markets...but really nice weight to the vinyl

Response is time late I know but look closely on the Q-up device and you will see two sliders. One adjusts the torque or forcefulness that the arm snaps up and the other adjusts the sensitivity of the trigger. Play with those two as well as the height of the Q-Up device in the cradle and I am sure it will tame the problem of snapping up the arm too violently...

 

[captskippy]

Exactly! thanks again, after a few of those aggressive pops back in April I went back and adjusted as you recommended above. It is now acceptable.

 

[Mitchy2000]

Yes, it's resin and it does arbitrarily crumble with time. Simone Lucchetti of Audio Silente makes replacements.

Hello,
This thread is a gold mine of information. I am probably going to get one of those Audio Silente replacement adapters however I’m working on a homemade version for fun (yes, you read that right). Does anyone know what the pin diameter is for the 4 connector pins? I’m attempting to use Deutsche DTP connector pins but want to get as close as possible to the original which I don’t have. Cheers, Grant.

 

[Brian_at_HHH]

Like many others, I wanted to pass along a huge "Thank You" to Tim Flath for what is a massive amount of useful information and an almost endless list of fun videos. I'm in the long slow process of re-working a 165, and it would be a sorry result were it not for all of this info. I definitely would not be about to swap the deck out, and would likely not have even thought to ditch the near-carboard base, either (well, put aside in case someone wants something more original, instead of good sound).

One thing, after viewing all your rebuilds, Tim - you need to change your tag line from "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!" to "If it ain't broke, don't fix it, just buy one that is broke and fix that, then do it again...!"

 

[Timothy Flath]

Like many others, I wanted to pass along a huge "Thank You" to Tim Flath for what is a massive amount of useful information and an almost endless list of fun videos. I'm in the long slow process of re-working a 165, and it would be a sorry result were it not for all of this info. I definitely would not be about to swap the deck out, and would likely not have even thought to ditch the near-carboard base, either (well, put aside in case someone wants something more original, instead of good sound).

One thing, after viewing all your rebuilds, Tim - you need to change your tag line from "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!" to "If it ain't broke, don't fix it, just buy one that is broke and fix that, then do it again...!"

Thank you muchly Brian. I should visit back on this thread more often. I do have quite a number of TD-165 refurbishing videos posted on my YouTube Channel as well. I think I had 4 or 5 of them at one time. Simply go to YouTube Search and type "Navydiving Thorens" or "Navydiving TD-165" and you should be able to find a whole bunch of time wasting videos...

 

[Timothy Flath]

End state

 

[Brian_at_HHH]

Thank you muchly Brian. I should visit back on this thread more often. I do have quite a number of TD-165 refurbishing videos posted on my YouTube Channel as well. I think I had 4 or 5 of them at one time. Simply go to YouTube Search and type "Navydiving Thorens" or "Navydiving TD-165" and you should be able to find a whole bunch of time wasting videos...

You are welcome and don't worry about when you visit - you have a life (several, in fact from what I can see).

I think I've enjoyed all your Thorens (and many other) videos many times. I'm not generally competent (or safe, as my electronic techs will insist on pointing out) when it comes to messing inside amps, pres or other components, but I still enjoy them and always learn from those who are adept.

BTW, love your design sense with some of the themed gear.