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Thorens TD125 Restoration

I have most all the literature that can be found online. I only need an accurate VTF gauge (or small gram scale) to calibrate the tonearm's tracking force mechanism. Right now I'm using my calibrated index finger... and it's calibration hasn't been checked in a while.
 
John, this a great thread. Thanks for documenting it and taking the time to share with us. One question: did you remove the resistors from the circuit before you checked them? Even if they measure ok, I would have replaced them all anyway, but I'm sure it's not a major issue.

It's particularly useful for me to see all this since I'm going to have to get into my TD125 MKII one day and do it all. So changing the 16rpm speed setting to 78rpm is as simple as replacing one capacitor?
 
Mr. Lin said:
John, this a great thread. Thanks for documenting it and taking the time to share with us. One question: did you remove the resistors from the circuit before you checked them? Even if they measure ok, I would have replaced them all anyway, but I'm sure it's not a major issue.

It's particularly useful for me to see all this since I'm going to have to get into my TD125 MKII one day and do it all. So changing the 16rpm speed setting to 78rpm is as simple as replacing one capacitor?
Click to expand...

No, I checked them in-circuit. I didn't check all the resistors, only the ones associated with the trimpot that affects the dc balance. The circuit is such that there isn't much loading around the resistor, I thought it was "good enough."

The 78 RPM mod I found (by slogging through literally like 45 pages on the Vinyl Engine forum) applies only to the Mark I, though someone who understands the circuit might be able to calculate what needs to be done for the somewhat different circuitry used on the Mk II. The change involves replacing one electrolytic and two film caps. Then you have to adjust the voltage. It's not a great mod, IMO. The motor doesn't really want to spin at 78. According to the instructions, you have to get to 78 by going to 45 first so the motor is partway up to speed. Even then, before I had the voltages really tweaked in, switching to 78 the motor would slow down, stop, and just sit there vibrating. I could get it to 78 by spinning the platter by hand and then the motor would keep it there. Now that I have the voltages dialed in better the motor will pick it up from 45. Unfortunately, I can't get "dead nuts" on 78. Even with the fine adjust trim pot set all the way down and the panel adjuster set to the slowest end I'm still just a bit fast on a strobe disc.

I'm just going to live with it like that for now. I don't have a 78 stylus yet, and I have very few 78 records right now. I don't think the small speed discrepancy will keep me from enjoying the 78s I have or any that I might get in the future.
 
Two words: hot damn !

Very nice documentation of your creative restoration. Thanks for posting.
 
JonL said:
Hi Bill,
Mel told me he was working with you on your TD125. I don't know if I can add anything to what Mel already knows, but feel free to ask. Someday soon I may want to pick Mel's brain about sand-filled plinths.
Click to expand...

I am just trying to learn from the master. :D Actually I am lucky that people like Mel and Jim are local to me and willing to help a newby out. I do like alot of what you have done to yours and will be picking your brain in the future.

Right now I am just going to put my SME 3009 on it and listen to it stock for a while and then do one or two changes at a time. By this time next year I might be up to 4 or 5 changes. :D Yah right, like I have that kind of patience, sure sounded good though didn't it.

Bill
 
Outstanding work Jon, the table looks great! :thmbsp:


bsujeep said:
I am just trying to learn from the master. :D Actually I am lucky that people like Mel and Jim are local to me and willing to help a newby out. I do like alot of what you have done to yours and will be picking your brain in the future.

Right now I am just going to put my SME 3009 on it and listen to it stock for a while and then do one or two changes at a time. By this time next year I might be up to 4 or 5 changes. :D Yah right, like I have that kind of patience, sure sounded good though didn't it.

Bill
Click to expand...

By this time next year you will have a hotrodded table that will put some very costly tables to shame! :naughty:
 
Many 78's ran fast. Most hardcore 78's collector have TT that go from like 66 up to 92 rpm. So if it runs fast i wouldn't worry.
 
I know this is three years after this post but if you are still around, could you tell me how you removed the coupler from the tonearm? I am trying to do the same repair and can't figure out how to get it apart :-(
Cheerio, David
 
icemanhank said:
I know this is three years after this post but if you are still around, could you tell me how you removed the coupler from the tonearm? I am trying to do the same repair and can't figure out how to get it apart :-(
Cheerio, David
Click to expand...

Hi David!
If you look at the pictures in post number 10 in this thread, you'll see two small holes in one part of the coupling. As I recall, there are two tiny screws that go through the tonearm tube and into those holes to secure that part of the coupling into the tonearm assembly. You have to remove those two screws and then the whole rear portion of the tonearm will come off. Unfortunately the screws are hidden inside the big cylindrical housing that is also part of the tonearm pivot bearing assembly. There's no easy access without disassembling the bearing, and I didn't want to do that. I was able to get a screwdriver onto the screws at a pretty steep angle, I don't remember exactly how, but I was able to keep it engaged and get the screws out. Getting them back in was far more difficult and I recall struggling with it for quite some time before finally managing to get them in and tight.

Hope this helps, and welcome to AK!

Jon
 
I didn't know this was 2012!

Anyway, I don't know how I originally missed this thread but your table looks wonderful, Jon!

Job well done!

Doug
 
I’m glad to see this thread pop up again! I just happen to be headed over to Bsujeep’s today to pick up his 125 to start the hot rod process, this thread will prove to be quite valuable during this project.

Thanks Jon.
 
I just said good bye to my 125 for a couple of weeks while Mel gets the measurements etc. and then it is off to the races. OK this will probably be more like the tortoise than the hare but anything worth doing is worth doing well, like you did in this thread. Fantastic job Jon!
 
Thanks again for all the nice comments... I don't use the table nearly as much as I'd like. I have to get a switch box so I can use both my tables with the single phono input on my preamp, and I have to get a better cartridge and/or stylus than I have now. I have a Grado Green on one headshell, and I really don't like the way it sounds on this table. Way, way too "warm" and without sufficient detail. I also have Shure M75MB with a conical stylus of unknown condition. That sounds pretty good on most records and makes some records sound better than they do on my B&O with the contact-line SoundSmith cartridge. I'm hesitant to use it on most records until I can get the stylus checked out. I'd like to get a better stylus for the Shure, and then some other kind of cartridge for my second headshell. I really wish I had a nice SME tonearm on it, but that's going to have to wait quite a while.
 
I would get either the N75HE or the JICO SAS for you M75 and enjoy the music, that arm you have on the thorens is pretty similar to the one on Mel's 150 and is does a nice job even though it is a bit worn out.
 
Hi JonL,
On your TD125 you have one the best arms thorens ever made.It has Effective Mass of 16g so can a Moving coil like Denon 103 or other low Compliance cartridge that will sound better than any MM cartridge.
 
Amazing job!!! It looks so good from what you started with. I like that you kept the plinth in its classic form I was considering doing a larger more extravagant plinth, but I took a second look and I realized what the designers were going for: being German/Swiss a very Bauhaus streamlined look. Maybe that is what you were seeing as well?

I am in the beginning phase of my restoration. Did your strobe work? Mine does not, so I wondering if replacing the cap on the related pcb board would bring it back to life. Was that part of the electronic restoration.
 
Thanks for the compliments!

Yes, I really like the streamlined look of the plinth, but I was (and still am) very disappointed in how the color of the veneer changed. I really like the original light straw-like color those plinths have. I stripped the original finish with Rock Miracle (or similar, I think it's identified up in the thread), and then used plain old Watco Teak Oil. It came out very brown, almost a walnut color. I think a paste wax might be better, but I'm not sure. A more substantial plinth is supposed to make a noticeable improvement in the sonics.

My strobe was working when I got the deck.

Good luck on your restoration! Are you going to start a thread?
 
HI,
Superb! You have a lot of determination which I admire. Just before Christmas I got a TD125 without an arm. I mounted a Graham 2.2 unipivot on it. That along with a new belt and an Audio Technica OC9/2 resulted in a fine sounding turntable. In my case, my TD125 looked like new. So, while I admire your effort, I'm glad I did not have to do the same. Too lazy. Of course, I paid much more.

I think you will be very happy especially since you made it look so good. Be sure to mount it in a place where you can see and admire it.

Sparky
 
Hope this thread is still active

Thanks so much for this thread Jon

I've just got hold of a 125 II / SME 3009

I am restoring it now, although the condition is mint

Sadly I can get any power at all in the TT, essentially it's as if it's been switched off at the mains

Really hoping I can get it up and running again

I've posted on several forums and awaiting servicing tips

Cheers all

Graham
 
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