Thorens TP16 Tonearm, TP60 Headshell mod to accomodate various cart mounts.
- Thread starter the_nines
- Start date
ddarch
Super Member
I look at this mod in horror, because as a person who works on Thorens models almost exclusively, I've seen it botched many times. PLEASE only do this if you have a top mounting cartridge OR your inner sled is stripped beyond repair. As one poster said, screw kits (good ones) are available cheaply...that's the way to proceed if the sled is good and your cartridge is bottom mounting. Pleeeeease.
muovimies
Super Member
I have a top mounted cart so I had to do this. It's true that with carts you can mount from the bottom, the stock Thorens way is actually more convenient, effectively making all carts 'threaded' - you don't have to mess around with those annoying tiny nuts & bolts, just tighten the screws and you're good to go.
Maybe the stock arrangement reduced alignment options though? I can't recall if that was the case. The stock TP-16 mkI geometry of 14.4mm overhang and 22deg offset is horrid, even Stevenson is a huge improvement over it and I'm not a fan of Stevenson... though to be honest I don't think there's that much of a difference between the different alignments in sound. Baerwald might be out of reach for many (most?) cartridges, I ended up using a custom geometry with 17mm overhang and 23deg offset angle, it's basically a combination of Loefgren A & B. Now it not only sounds good, but also looks pretty good in the vinylengine calculation graphs
the_nines
Lunatic Member
Nothing is being hacked-up.
If you follow the instructions, every single piece can be put back to its original state. Nothing is cut, bent, drilled, or whatever.
Why restrict yourself to bottom-mount carts only?
No?
:yes:
ddarch
Super Member
No denying the OP did a tremendous job...I've seen plenty of the non-tremendous, bordering on butchering. The key part is NOT bending that VERY thin logo plate and removing old adhesive so it fits back neatly/evenly.
I do NOT begrudge it when people HAVE to do this...I would just hate to see people who do NOT HAVE to, do it. Buy a good screw kit on ebay or from Steve at Analog Dept.
I do NOT begrudge it when people HAVE to do this...I would just hate to see people who do NOT HAVE to, do it. Buy a good screw kit on ebay or from Steve at Analog Dept.
willenvelope
New Member
Great mod, super clear and easy. Thanks! If you do use a Q-tip to pop off the metal plate, though, expect some Q-tip fuzz to get stuck to it, since it was originally glued on and is still sticky.
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KentTeffeteller
Gimpus Stereophilus!
Recommended. Keeps original headshells original. Better than stock for your needs and keeps your original arm.
the_nines
Lunatic Member
^^^^^ If I didn't have an original head-shell I would use one, no question.
However, IMHO, if we're going to keep the deck as original as possible, I prefer this look:
Again, IMHO, I find a certain visual charm to the original head-shell, I think it's one of the nicest looking out there and I also think it's half the beauty of the entire deck (much like the front grill of a car). What I have done is to remove two pieces which can be put back (they snap in).
Let's play a game.
Spot the one with the mod:
Here it's obvious because the Ortofon is a top-mount cart:
try1256
Super Member
^^^^^ If I didn't have an original head-shell I would use one, no question.
However, IMHO, if we're going to keep the deck as original as possible, I prefer this look:
Again, IMHO, I find a certain visual charm to the original head-shell, I think it's one of the nicest looking out there and I also think it's half the beauty of the entire deck (much like the front grill of a car). What I have done is to remove two pieces which can be put back (they snap in).
I kept 2 of the original headshells and will probably use them if needed. My table has a custom plinth so it has lost the original look anyway. The Schopper headshell looks a little more modern and does allow for azimuth adjustment.
the_nines
Lunatic Member
Ok.
tnsilver
Stereo Puppy
This is a very good mod. In fact, it's probably the only one that allows for top mounting carts. There's no botchery involved and it should have been the way Thorens designed that headshell. The stock configuration of the TP-60 s a serious PITA to align the cart with and this mod solves the design flaw. What were they thinking anyway? Good work! Deserves the bump up.
Mono-stereo
New Member
Great mod, thanks! The black plastic thing was melted in place (the two "wings" going down in the slots) so it broke when I removed it. But what does that part do anyway? I don't see the function.
tnsilver
Stereo Puppy
I'm guessing it prevents long screws inserted from the bottom from puncturing or denting the aluminum foilcal. It may also help dampen the threaded magnesium plate and keep it from rattling inside the HS.
bimasta
Addicted Member
I did the same mod but took it all the way. The thin metal Thorens badge was damaged when I got it: someone forced too-long screws and punched dents into it, also breaking the glue-bond, it was barely hanging on. I removed it completely — with those dents it was ugly anyway. I have several very nice top-mount-only cartridges (VDH, Madrigal, Dynavector) and after the mod I could mount them in the Thorens shell as easily as a conventional shell, and adjust them from the top.
With the mod described in this thread, how do you do the protractor/alignment procedures, which require many little back and forth adjustments till it's spot on? Do you have to do all that from the bottom? If so, isn't that awkward?
No, mine is not original anymore, and for some people "originalism" is holy writ. But it doesn't bother me, it's just a personal preference — especially when it was a bad design to start with. It may affect resale value, but if I want to sell it I can find a new Thorens badge online and — voila — it's original again.
It's all a bit academic in my case because a) I replaced the Thorens arm long ago so it's not an issue, and b) I don't even use the table currently (but it's a TD125 and I love it, I hope to keep it as a superb back-up).
Despite being academic, I thought I'd share because these mods and tweaks are one of the great things about vinyl: creative engagement by us, the users. Instead of just pushing a 'start' button, what fun is that? And the best Thorens tables, being so soundly engineered, provide a great starting place for incremental improvements both sonic and aesthetic...
With the mod described in this thread, how do you do the protractor/alignment procedures, which require many little back and forth adjustments till it's spot on? Do you have to do all that from the bottom? If so, isn't that awkward?
No, mine is not original anymore, and for some people "originalism" is holy writ. But it doesn't bother me, it's just a personal preference — especially when it was a bad design to start with. It may affect resale value, but if I want to sell it I can find a new Thorens badge online and — voila — it's original again.
It's all a bit academic in my case because a) I replaced the Thorens arm long ago so it's not an issue, and b) I don't even use the table currently (but it's a TD125 and I love it, I hope to keep it as a superb back-up).
Despite being academic, I thought I'd share because these mods and tweaks are one of the great things about vinyl: creative engagement by us, the users. Instead of just pushing a 'start' button, what fun is that? And the best Thorens tables, being so soundly engineered, provide a great starting place for incremental improvements both sonic and aesthetic...
the_nines
Lunatic Member
I don't understand your question but I will attempt to answer what I think you are referring to.
If you are referring to using the original alignment tool, I don't think taking the cart in and out a couple of times is a major head-ache, not for me anyways. Really a small price to pay for using a top-mount cart you may like.
Provided the screw-heads are flush on top:
Keep the metal cover off, adjust, and place cover back on:
If you are not referring to the original Thorens alignment tool or your screw-heads are not flush on top, adjust like you would any other cart/headshell combination using the protractor of your choice.
Hmm. How did this managed? Is this the TP16 IV arms -headshell? And is the geometry like original now?
try1256
Super Member
It is a Schopper replacement for the TP-60. Search on Ebay, they are available. I have since changed to an SME M2-9 arm so I no longer have it but it worked will on the TP-16