mboxler
Well-Known Member
Me too. It's a "swamper" if you really think about it.
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Three-Way Horn System w/ PRV D2200Ph Midrange & ZXPC 18x10 Horn
- Thread starter THD+N
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Me too. It's a "swamper" if you really think about it.
You definitely will not need the L-Pad then, you'll need some boost on the high-end from your tone controls. On the other hand, it seems like we all need some "boost" in one capacity or another after 50... ugh.
Digression... I've been remodeling a bit in the basement. The previous owner finished the basement but set it up in a strange way (strange to me). The part of the basement where my listening area is, is shaped like an "L". The short part of the L is the rear of the room and leads out double french doors to the backyard. The longer part of the "L" is my main listening area kind of shaped like an open shoebox.
The front short wall where my main speakers are located has one good corner on the left-side, but the right-side opens up into two hallways and the bass from the right channel is totally lost in the maze of passages. In addition, the shape of the front of the room is not conducive to mounting a big TV for my home theater that I also want to set up in the basement.
We had a company come out and pull a permit and then modify the load bearing member running the length of the basement essentially holding up the main floors of the house to make a "doorway" for ingress/egress into the main listening area. This has allowed me to close in the front of the "shoebox" and have two nice corners to set-up all my equipment. I just finished the wall yesterday and painted most of it. The sound now (mainly bass) from both front speakers is now balanced and sounds awesome. Plus the room looks normal now the way it should have been designed.
Nothing like modifying your home to get it to sound the way you want!
The front short wall where my main speakers are located has one good corner on the left-side, but the right-side opens up into two hallways and the bass from the right channel is totally lost in the maze of passages. In addition, the shape of the front of the room is not conducive to mounting a big TV for my home theater that I also want to set up in the basement.
We had a company come out and pull a permit and then modify the load bearing member running the length of the basement essentially holding up the main floors of the house to make a "doorway" for ingress/egress into the main listening area. This has allowed me to close in the front of the "shoebox" and have two nice corners to set-up all my equipment. I just finished the wall yesterday and painted most of it. The sound now (mainly bass) from both front speakers is now balanced and sounds awesome. Plus the room looks normal now the way it should have been designed.
Nothing like modifying your home to get it to sound the way you want!
along with Room EQ, it's the best. I've done it in many homes.
I'll bet it's far from Flat, however................
lissenup
Super Member
Ok, these have been in for a couple of days. Roughly 3dB attenuation on the tweeter, running mids off tap 2. So far sound pretty good. I think better off tap 2 than tap 3.
Attachments
Yep, tap 2. It's just that the D2200Ph is so efficient, it needs to be attenuated relative to the woofer level.
Still listening to the latest version of my crossover for my particular drivers/horns; I think it is my BCF (best crossover forever) for this system.
mboxler
Well-Known Member
I've been working on all the possible tap settings on a T2A, but it's been a little time consuming.
Hopefully this is a good way to view one possibility. The T2A on the left is the standard usage. The one on the right is not. It basically turns the T2A "upside down", connecting the input plus to tap 0 and the input minus to tap 5. The output taps are labelled with the new attenuation levels.
Perhaps these values are closer to what you might like?
Mike
Gigantic
A big, big love
This is actually useful. Thanks Mike.
lissenup
Super Member
Thanks for this. Tap 4 on the upside down version may also be a possibility. I will give it a shot after more extended use in its current configuration (tap 2 in standard usage).
lissenup
Super Member
I’ve forgotten, what type of cabinet are your drivers/horns installed in?
I made "open baffle" panels to sit on top of my re-engineered LaScala bass enclosure sections. I removed the K400 horn/driver & K77 tweeter and placed a blank panel over the front baffle.
This version of LaScala has (had) the open back panel which lended itself to be ported easily by making a panel with two 4" ports, 7" long.
Don't mind the crusty picture of the back panel. The crossover is showing its age due to being exposed to the elements for 49 years. Before enclosing the top section with the port panel, the crossover just sat in the open rear area next to the K55V driver.
I've been too lazy to make it pretty but it sounds great.
This version of LaScala has (had) the open back panel which lended itself to be ported easily by making a panel with two 4" ports, 7" long.
Don't mind the crusty picture of the back panel. The crossover is showing its age due to being exposed to the elements for 49 years. Before enclosing the top section with the port panel, the crossover just sat in the open rear area next to the K55V driver.
I've been too lazy to make it pretty but it sounds great.
Attachments
mboxler
Well-Known Member
You're both welcome. I was curious if the "upside down" terminology worked.
Here are four more possibilities. The two on the left are "standard" and the two on the right are "upside down".
There are quite a few more but first I'll wait to see if these are of any use.
Mike
Here are four more possibilities. The two on the left are "standard" and the two on the right are "upside down".
There are quite a few more but first I'll wait to see if these are of any use.
Mike
grindstone
Well-Known Member
You're on a roll...gotta seize that muse until it runs its course.
If you used taps 1 thru 4, then it would be "inside out".
Sometimes these threads make me wonder how cheaply/efficiently a dozen of us could make speakers that would undercut and greatly outperform other available options out there, especially in today's economy. If only we could find an investor (or someone with a 3 axis CNC machine).......That's how I ended up in this rabbit hole instead of just following the original spec cornscala recipe, etc. a year ago I didn't even know zxpc existed or even heard of PRV.....It's just that I saw the costs of ALK crossovers and the Trachorn, or various elliptical horns, etc. and thought there had to be cheaper ways without sacrificing sound quality to a great extent in terms of my buddies wanting me to build them versions. Kind of like cars and trim levels or options. I ignorantly thought it would be difficult to come up with 3 versions/pricepoints...LOL......hell, there are so many different choices and variables that it's almost insane.(In fact, literally the day after I completed my Cornscala Bass Bins and was hooking them up was the day Parts Express plastered a $99 K33E substitute on their site and catalogue in my mailbox.....a few days earlier, and I swear I would have bought a set of those to stick in and test before I flush mounted the Crites Cast Frame Woofers). All I was trying to do was create cheaper options for friends who couldn't afford a set with our premium platinum level driver, horn, and xover choices/needs......I've gone to great lengths, to finally convince a handful of close friends that I hadn't turned into some mad crazy scientist, and that they hadn't lost the visceral impact and enjoyment of listening to music as a result of growing older but because most have gotten used to crappy sound at best....and after years of ;learning and fixing equipment and speakers, watching eyes glaze over as I answer their audio questions. Well, about 10 seconds after listening to these speakers did more convincing than a decade of my yammering about why their overpriced ceiling installations with a one 8 inch subwoofer in a 600 sq foot room (or soundbars for that matter)sounded like crap and worse than their cheap dolby digital/pro logic receiver setups in college from the late 90s. There's so much demand( granted I know a ton of musicians or ex-prfessional musicians) but I live in louisiana, and I don't have the time or extra AC for my workspace to build them this time of year, especially.
Sorry for the long ramble, but hey....FWIW, one other tweak I made to try and lower the cost was with the type of plywood. I was able to get the Birch plywood and all the cuts premade for my bass cabinet the size of a cornwall for a total of $177. The risk being that instead of baltic birch only plywood, I gambled on a Baltic Birch Plywood with Balsa Wood layers mixed in( I think 3 layers Balsa). The end result is that they are not only much lighter, but I didn't need all the originally intended bracing in my plans, specifically from baffle to rear panel, like the 2 x 4s in the Cornwall IV, etc. I was expecting all sorts of potential resonating issues, but they ironically resonate less than a cornwall/cornscala reg cab. The weirdest thing about these builds is that we've essentially built them with cheaper parts but in my case at least, they ended up sounding much better.....that's not supposed to happen, or so I thought. Especially with prices of everything doubling the last 2.5 years....the vintage stuff is even worse in that regard......mint cornwall 1 or 2s could be had in my area for 7-800 bucks in early 2021. Now = lucky if ya find a set below Crites new prices, even in bad shape.
Sorry for the long ramble, but hey....FWIW, one other tweak I made to try and lower the cost was with the type of plywood. I was able to get the Birch plywood and all the cuts premade for my bass cabinet the size of a cornwall for a total of $177. The risk being that instead of baltic birch only plywood, I gambled on a Baltic Birch Plywood with Balsa Wood layers mixed in( I think 3 layers Balsa). The end result is that they are not only much lighter, but I didn't need all the originally intended bracing in my plans, specifically from baffle to rear panel, like the 2 x 4s in the Cornwall IV, etc. I was expecting all sorts of potential resonating issues, but they ironically resonate less than a cornwall/cornscala reg cab. The weirdest thing about these builds is that we've essentially built them with cheaper parts but in my case at least, they ended up sounding much better.....that's not supposed to happen, or so I thought. Especially with prices of everything doubling the last 2.5 years....the vintage stuff is even worse in that regard......mint cornwall 1 or 2s could be had in my area for 7-800 bucks in early 2021. Now = lucky if ya find a set below Crites new prices, even in bad shape.
I thought I posted pics of my bass bins in this thread already at some point? With the zxpc biradial or 18x10 and smahl tweeter lenses free mounted on top? I put a halt to my top cab temporarily, as I'm seeking a shop that can make that Crowe ES 450 horn.....cuz well, having that changes everything. If I had known what combo for sure i was using I could have also had top cabinets cut for not much extra, I'm kinda kicking myself about that; but I wanted to force myself to get better acquainted with my router
. Hopefully we can stop having tornados and blackouts every weekend and I catch up enough to finish them out/put the grills on. I originally kinda wished I had stuck the mid in the bass cab, but I'm sooooo glad I didn't do that. But the Bass Cab is essentially a Cornwall 1/2 Spec Cab but with the woofer higher up in order to stay within around 25 inch spacing between the mid horn and woofer and lessen mid bass suck out from floor reflections.
. Hopefully we can stop having tornados and blackouts every weekend and I catch up enough to finish them out/put the grills on. I originally kinda wished I had stuck the mid in the bass cab, but I'm sooooo glad I didn't do that. But the Bass Cab is essentially a Cornwall 1/2 Spec Cab but with the woofer higher up in order to stay within around 25 inch spacing between the mid horn and woofer and lessen mid bass suck out from floor reflections.