Technics is Panasonic is National is Matshushita. So zinda is on solid ground when teasing. But I suspect most people would disagree that his speakers have anything to do with Technics et al at this point - new drivers, new cabinets, new loading, new crossover. And I also suspect most people would question identifying a hole as a transmission line, or woofers as subs. For all I know, the speakers do sound fantastic, but if you start with clever terminology, you'd better not make boo boos yourself.
Those are actual subwoofers, I'm not sure anyone is making woofers that are as heavy duty as those. Plus when I adjust the crossover point higher than 150Hz they get that typical subwoofer sound that lets you know you cannot use them as mid woofers. That's what the dual 8s are for. The way I designed the inside partition is not merely a square box around those 2 rights. The box is slanted as it nears the top, area changes from 8"x10.5" open at the bottom and ends up at 5"x10.5" then the top of the box is slanted at an angle toward the port the upper back corner is where I made my cut to slide the pieces inside the cabinet and after I glued and screwed it in place I added a piece of wood on a 45 degree angle that covers that area where the cut is and it acts to move the air towards the port I forget the exact distance from center if cone to port opening but these are merely test cabinets to make sure the idea will work before starting to draw up do e real cabinets with similar dimensions only placing the 8s closer to the tweeters. What I'm going to do is mount the 8s horizontally below the panels and have the port in between the 8s, I haven't figured out a bullshit term or name for this arrangement yet but since it seems to be the new thing. Lasting your name on where you cut the holes seems to be nothing that should be able to copyright but who knows maybe the Zinda configuration will catch on. I have 4x12s slated to take over for the 2x10s, I'm going with pressed paper cones to try and keep the movement fast and not going with anything long excursion. Things gotta remain very quick the amps I'm using have damping factors near 1000 at 80Hz for 8 ohm and 500 for 4 ohm so the control is there. I have yet to even come close to bottoming out any drivers yet and it's playing pretty loud most times.
The weird thing with that many watts is when you crank it up it doesn't seem to be as loud as you normally relate loud volumes in comparison to the distortion that is normally present with volumes over 120db. Or fir that matter 100+db on many typical receivers. I only realize the volume when I go outside to do something and I can hear it plain as day with all doors shut and Ive never had it passed 1/3 volume on my NAD pre. I have an old AZDEN dual 15 band eq with spectrum and pink noise and pure tone generator with a microphone input on it that runs on the side input of the pre. I use the low voltage outputs and still find it a bit scarry when I turn it on, it starts in a muted state, that allows me to turn the volume down to zero before I turn on any amps. Having a remote for the pre is the best thing. I'm still dealing the crossover points. Brand new Beringer replaced a JBL 3 way that just never seemed to work properly. Things didn't make sense and changed which knobs were affecting each output? Junk! Things are solid now but it will take me a month before I get everything set up perfectly again. Then I'll make new cabinets and start the entire process over again. Oh I also have a set of 15" brand new subs that are poly with rubber surrounds, not long excursion that could be used instead of the 12s, what I originally was planning on and still haven't completely ruled out is 4x8" in each cabinet mounted in clamshell isobaric configuration with the back side of the cones mounted to the back of the cabinet just under the midbass enclosure which will be sealed. Port will be slotted in the center at the top of the cabinet probably in a vee shape between the 8s and cut to follow the contour of the outer edges or one in either top corner cut in a slanted vee shape using both cabinets to form the ports. My biggest worry is the change in distance from the subs to the port since the cabinets will be wider and shorter than these. There will room behind the enclosure for the midbass for the air to move and compress slightly as it moves toward the ports. Again I'll add a corner fill piece along the bottom and top edges to remove standing waves or turbulence that will form. A simple 2 chamber box will be much easier to design from scratch being able to choose my own dimensions is always better than using left over cabinets for testing and modifying like I had to. It's tricky assembling an inner cabinet when you have limited access to the construction. Had to slide it up and work through the holes, then pound it down to put the other pieces on it then figure out how to get it back in place once it was together. It was cut to fit exact and didn't move easily. Big hammers and a bunch of preplanning went into that simple isolated area plus there's very little wood between the speakers to make a connection, there's a screw under the subs rim that holds the lower boards in place due to the angle that I used to keep air flow smooth passed the enclosure.
Even though they look like hell and they probably would be the last speakers someone would steal given the chance, they have put ever speaker I've ever heard to shame. So much so that I now have a problem listening to the mass produced garbage that people pay huge $ for. I'm slowly turning into a snob that needs to see the amp wattage be more than the price of all components combined before I would consider it to worth hearing at any level. Mine sounds unbelievable at low volumes as well as high volumes with no sibilance no matter where you set any controls, no bottoming out no matter where you set the controls. My eq us nearly flat with the a bit if attenuation at the highest and lowest frequencies. Active crossovers simply are the best way to do anything, I use not 1 cap, nothing is between the amp and drivers except wire. The stats can be ran as low as you want without any fear of burning them up. The sound is unmatched and they just go louder and louder as the volume goes up. I can sit hear and tell you this all day but none of it matters unless you come by and see hundreds of speakers stacked up ready to sell, Klipsch Heresy 1 and 2s, KG2s, quintets, multimedias, all will never be used again. Celestion, Boston Acoustics, CV, Technics, pioneer, Sonic, countless JBL and Infinity are never going to be contacted to my system, Canton, DCM, phase tech, Atlantic tech, def tech, all the techs, PSB, BIC, marantz, RTR, AR, mirage, naddy, Sony, Onkyo, technics, Yamaha, other DIY I didn't make, some Brazilian made, radio shack, advent, flaunce, jamo, newer klipsch, vintage Infinity 3000, studio monitors, a slew of others that I have forgotten I even own will never be connected but I will keep KLH MODEL 16, BOSE 901iii, Eosone 400 and sub will probably go (forgot), Snell E v4, Aztec picasso will stay with me. The Snell are the only ones that I think sound decent, Bose - just because it breaks all the rules, if you never owned a set buy some now while they're cheap, you'll understand once you run 500watts per channel to them and use a BBE sonic maximizer instead of bose's junk eqs and you can also ad a cheap EQ for more shaping but only need 3 bands to get them working a dual 10 or 15 band + BBE is perfect, the Aztecs (Colorado based company) are audio history. Only company that I know of that actually was caught using a competitors drivers and sued (Infinity), they went out of business shortly after losing the case. Not bad speakers rare.
Oh one more point I'm looking for a pair of totl Allisons.or any JansZen models I'm willing to trade a pile of your choice or comparable.
Ok Im done and will leave this thread alone now, the joke was my technics are the best now that they have no technics drivers in them, the placement of the technics that I haven't changed drivers was shown to be sounding best when disconnected and stacked in a mountain of other useless speakers that at one time or another were considered to be good and sold for a fair amount of cash in their day.
I won't be back to reply so you guys can all jump on me and bash me, just watch for my completed projects after the winter, it's too hot in AZ to do anything outside.
Good luck with your technics/Panasonic gear, I don't think they made anything that puts out over 500Watts per channel and is 1 ohm stable so in my book they don't exist as an audio company that is worth buying.
