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tone arm wires

jwalk2c

New Member
Hello,
I am still having problems with Marantz 6100.:tears:
Can't seem to get any signal from cartridge.
I can rub needle and nothing.
I am hooked up to my phono inputs on my old Marantz 2238 reciever.
I replaced the old silver colored rca ends with gold ones.
I used the solder type.
It is hard wired all the way to end of tone arm, just a connection block inside turntable.
I can get a contnuity signal from all points (tone arm pins,head pins,junctioon block,)to rca conectors.
I am giving up on this old cartidge ,audio-technica AT2211EH.
I did put a new stylus on it though.
My question is are all 4 pin head shells pins wired the same?
The cartridge is color coded but not the head shell conection.
I have a 6100 manual which tells color of wires to L & R channel, but since I can't see inside tone arm that does not help.
So looking at end of tone arm and the 4 pins inside it ,which pins go to what channels and which are positive and which are ground.
Thanks again
jwalk2c
 
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If you have continuity at all points, that tells me that the cartridge may well be the problem. Do you have a spare you can install, at least for troubleshooting purposes?

Galen
 
All four pin head shells are pretty much the same. There are minor variations. Some are for straight arms and some for S arms. Be sure you get he one you need. For test purposes, get one off the 'Bay for $5 and shipping. Grab a cheapy cart to test with. Should be something for around $20 that will work to test.
 
Hi Jwalk2c,
Here a photo of your Marantz headshell wiring:

6u5b02s.jpg


While a dead AT cart is definitely high on the probability list here, there is one question on your continuity testing that isn’t clear. Did you do a full run test for each path – cartridge tag to phone plug? The reason I ask, is that if you take continuity from two directions on the headshell join, you cannot tell whether the spring loaded pins in the wand interconnect haven’t become gunked up in their travel and are not making contact.
CAUTION: Remember that you must disconnect the tags from the cartridge before running this full run test – lest you expose your cartridge to test voltages.

- Mario
 
Looking at the end of the tonearm and therefore the corresponding pins on the inside of the headshell:

White Red
Blue Green
 
Well if Howard's right, then the pictured wiring I posted above is wrong (I pinched it). However, even with L/R reversed, you should be getting something.
 
easiest testing method

will plugged into amp take a small screwdriver and touch the harness just behind the cartridge, you can find out real quick if the connections are live.
 
I should have asked before I took it apart.

Thank you all, its great to have this help only a keyboard away.
And thanks so much for the picture!
It looks just like my cartridge. Is this from yours or a data base?
To me it looks like the colors just simply line up with each other.
But I may have already ruined the cartidge.
I did not know enough about ohm meters .
Qoute [CAUTION: Remember that you must disconnect the tags from the cartridge before running this full run test – lest you expose your cartridge to test voltages]
Woops ;To late.??:tears:
I think I will just try to pick up another cheap cartride to test.
It may be a connection problem though, dang its hard to get those pointed test leads to make contact on these small parts.
What I need are allagater clips on my meter test leads.
That just occurred to me.
I will make some up and be 100% shure I do not have a continuity problem.
About putting metal to pins, will this damage amp ?
jwalk2c
 
Grab a meter and start checking on the ohm scale. Start from the cartridge pin and see if it gets to the RCA plug that goes into your Marantz.

Something will fail. There is your problem. Then check the cartridge to the back of the cartridge shell.

And check from the cartridge pins to the wires inside your RCA plugs that you replaced. Somewhere you will not get continuity.
 
I just did the same thing with a 6100...

It had a dead left channel, and I took the headshell/cartridge off and tested it on another TT and found it to be fine. So after using the DVM to check each spring loaded terminal pin inside the tone arm against the connectors underneath the metal shield where the 4 small wires attach to the output cord (all fine), I pulled the original RCA output cord and replaced it, and both channels work fine now.

Now I just need to figure out why it's not keeping constant speed.....:scratch2: (Already cleaned and steel wooled the motor spindle and replaced the belt)

Anyone know if it makes a difference between the one side of the belt and the other?
 
was juction block hard to solder new interconnects to?

I was thinking of replacing the entire RCA cable from tt, but opted just to solder on new rca jacks,which did not help.
Was it a big deal to work with the solder joints on that junction board?

Hope I don't have problems with my new belt, thats all I need now.
Thank You
jwalk2c
 
Woo Hoo! got it fixed!

Took the platter back off again and looked at the center spindle. Seemed to be a bit hard to turn by hand. Put a drop of oil on it, and the difference was instantaneous. Put it back together again, and it runs fine now....:thmbsp:
 
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