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Tonearm Cable Recommendations

Davron94

Davron94

Well-Known Member
Hey All! I have a Sumiko MMT Tonearm on my Sota Sapphire that has the original (from what it looks) Audioquest 5 pin DIN cable w/ RCAs. Recently the left channel started getting a very low buzz and hum. I move or giggle the cable and it lowers or goes away. That, to me, looks like a good sign to go ahead and upgrade the cable. Does anyone know what a good match would be for this tonearm?

Thanks!
 
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I went with the JELCO JAC-501 for my Jelco SA750D which I believe should be very similar to the Sumiko MMT.
 
Keep in mind the arm cables become part of the suspension. You do not want heavy, thick, stiff cables. The original cables you have should be very similar in construction to Linn cables, or cables found on the later model AR tables, or other sprung tables.
 
I would try and clean the contacts first and try to make the pins tighter for a positive connection.

Davron94 said:
Recently the left channel started getting a very low buzz and hum. I move or giggle the cable and it lowers or goes away.
Click to expand...

Routing is also important as you can get grounding hum.
 
marcmorin said:
Keep in mind the arm cables become part of the suspension. You do not want heavy, thick, stiff cables. The original cables you have should be very similar in construction to Linn cables, or cables found on the later model AR tables, or other sprung tables.
Click to expand...


These audioquest cables might not be the original setup that came with the table, they just look very old. They are fairly thick and heavy. There is a strain relief of sorts in that the cable is anchored to the sub-chassis between a couple of large headed bolts that screw into the sub-chassis from underneath the table.
 
Davron94 said:
These audioquest cables might not be the original setup that came with the table, they just look very old. They are fairly thick and heavy. There is a strain relief of sorts in that the cable is anchored to the sub-chassis between a couple of large headed bolts that screw into the sub-chassis from underneath the table.
Click to expand...
It's the part after the anchor that you need to be flex-y. Some years back, I pulled the Linn cables off my arm and went with Nordost cables.
Expensive. The biggest difference I noticed was my check book balance. I like to think I hear this much >>~~~> l l <~~~<< improvement.
;)
 
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