Tonearm wire replacement help
- Thread starter Texas Tom
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petehall347
the brandy coffee man
that stays there .why remove it ?
How do I get to the wires inside the tonearm?
Heat might help. But you didn't answer the first question - why? Is there actually a problem with the existing wire, or are you rewiring on general principle? If the latter, don't. Unless you are playing CD4 records and the capacitance of the cables is an issue (and if it is, replacing the RCA cables is a better idea), usually there is no benefit, and the dangers of screwing things up is unpleasantly real, especially if you have to remove the pivot pins and then readjust them.
The geniuses on the internet who tell you you need to do this don't have to live with the consequences of a damaged or inoperable arm, but you might.
I've done it, and I heard no meaningful difference. I did it because I was putting two damaged arms together to make one good arm and I figured I might as well. I might as well not have.
The geniuses on the internet who tell you you need to do this don't have to live with the consequences of a damaged or inoperable arm, but you might.
I've done it, and I heard no meaningful difference. I did it because I was putting two damaged arms together to make one good arm and I figured I might as well. I might as well not have.
Check to see if there's another screw. Most of my S type arms have two screws.
Thank you everyone for your feedback. I am trying to replace the wiring because the right channel is out and when I tested continuity, it failed in the tonearm.
I
Tomorrow I will check for a second screw and try the headshell trick.
Well, if you need to replace the wires to have two channels, go at it.
Often you need heat, and wiggling to get the collet/bayonet mount off - they need to be rigid, so they are tight, and sometimes mounted with the outer part hot and inner part cold so that thermal expansion and contraction help both with assembly and then, when at room temperature, with solid fit.
Often you need heat, and wiggling to get the collet/bayonet mount off - they need to be rigid, so they are tight, and sometimes mounted with the outer part hot and inner part cold so that thermal expansion and contraction help both with assembly and then, when at room temperature, with solid fit.
tabarddn51
Super Member
Hi, Underneath the wand near the coupling, you should see one very small screw, sometimes two. Remove it/them & the coupling should put out fairly easily.
Cheers
Cheers
grinx76
Well-Known Member
what was your heat source?
likebike23
Addicted Member
That's great. Usually after posts like yours there is a new question that comes up about something that was ruined as a result of the first post.
This one was a bit of work. I replace the RCA harness, the tonearm rest the cueing rest and I have a replacement dustcover. I still need a counterweight and a would like a replacement bottom cover. I am using a Technics SL-B3 counterweight right now.
Thank you Organ Donor Parts, you are already greatly missed!
Thank you Organ Donor Parts, you are already greatly missed!
