Tools for Pioneer Recap

[spidey66]

Looking to try my hand at recapping a few of my Pioneer units (SX535, SA8100 and eventually an SX1050). I repair guitars full time and have for 35+ years so I can solder, and read basic schematics. My question is about specific tools to rebuild the boards. What do folks use to hold the assemblies?What tip and temp for your soldering station? What solder and how thick? Lead or lead free? Do you wear magnifying visor? Anyone care to chime in with their tools? It would be a great help. Best place to start? (535 or 8100).
Thanks in advance!

 

[hertzdonut]

Spidey, you may have this stuff already, but to answer your questions: Articulated arms. I like 700 degrees, flat tip. Leaded solder. 3.0 reading glasses. Hemostats. I'm guessing the 1050 might actually be easier to start than the other two, but I've never worked on a 535 or 8100.

There's lots of superb techs in this forum (I am not!), and they are very helpful.

Good luck!

- Jeff

 

[spidey66]

Thanks Jeff!
Yes, own all of the above and a DBT, variac, Fluke VOM, an old Tektronics scope. Appreciate the reply.

 

[Watthour]

0.030-ish diameter solder in 60/40 alloy (or therabout) is easier to control than larger solder. It may also help to have additional flux for some of the old, dirty joints you might encounter.
Isopropyl alcohol and a stiff brush along with cotton swabs for cleanup will be useful.
Tubular rivets (eyelets) may be useful in those areas where foil traces have suffered damage.
A desoldering station makes rework easier, but even a small desolder pump can get it done. A bit of desolder wick is also helpful for the really stubborn joints.
Magnificaton and good lighting are essential for me. I used to be able to see almost microscopic things with the naked eye. Not any more for me.

This could be informative: https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...udio-gear-eh-heres-the-tools-you-need.333423/

 

[fromnowon]

Hello @spidey66

That E.W. post is definitely a go-to list/reference for equipment suggestions.

I think de-soldering parts and working on boards will be one of the main differences from working on guitars. I'm just a novice and had to learn some technique for getting parts removed without damaging the traces, and how to repair traces when I messed up.

On my SX-636 project I got some excellent coaching and advice from some really experienced guys in this thread:
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/new-sx-636-refurb-issues-and-questions.887511/page-4

Maybe it would help!

Also, I think a cheap transistor tester is essential for double-checking pinouts on transistors. Sometimes the subs are different from the originals and it can be a little nerve-wracking. A tester just helps confirm - I tested every transistor I replaced (to note ECB) and made sure to match the screening on the boards and never had a problem. Even a cheap one like "Mega328 LCR-T4 ESR Transistor Tester Diode Triode Capacitance SCR Inductance US" seems adequate for confirming pinouts, $10 on ebay. Of course you can read data sheets too but the tester is handy I guess.

 

[spidey66]

0.030-ish diameter solder in 60/40 alloy (or therabout) is easier to control than larger solder. It may also help to have additional flux for some of the old, dirty joints you might encounter.
Isopropyl alcohol and a stiff brush along with cotton swabs for cleanup will be useful.
Tubular rivets (eyelets) may be useful in those areas where foil traces have suffered damage.
A desoldering station makes rework easier, but even a small desolder pump can get it done. A bit of desolder wick is also helpful for the really stubborn joints.
Magnificaton and good lighting are essential for me. I used to be able to see almost microscopic things with the naked eye. Not any more for me.

This could be informative: https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...udio-gear-eh-heres-the-tools-you-need.333423/

 

[spidey66]

I have read the EchoWars thread and pretty much everything else he writes along with MTF. Those guys are brilliant! Thanks

 

[gslikker]

for a total restore or recap, my camera and computer to display the "before" pictures are the most important tools.....

 

[ic-racer]

Even with a guitar and only a single capacitor in the circuit, it can be difficult to tell if the capacitor is bad. Knowing which caps are bad in a complex amplifier probably needs some diagnostic equipment to ensure proper bias setting and measuring distortion and output. If replacing caps so they don't fail in the future, I'm not sure today's Chinese capacitors are better than the ones in the amp.