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Total Newbie Here! How to learn this stuff?
- Thread starter LaoTsu
- Start date
LaoTsu
New Member
Yes, seems like a pretty cool guy. He has a whole ebay store with all sorts of electronic parts. I got the actual amp in less than a week. That's faster shipping than some domestic shippers. Shows me that he cares about customer experience.
ETA: here's a pic of the underside of that model. I am at least at the point now where I am starting to understand what some of those mysterious objects are (caps, resisters, transformers, um - and other "thingies"). I am also kind of starting to be able to form a mental model of how it works, in general. To me, it seems like traffic in a city:
The rectifier is a one way road that starts as a two way road. The amplifier valves work as little powered gates that let lots of traffic go somewhere in time with the music. The resistors slow down the traffic (make it have less cars). The capacitors wait until there's a lot of traffic, then they let it go through. In a couple of weeks, I should have a better mental model and analogy, LOL. Right now, I am at the level of a five year old.
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I always thought this was a good, simple to understand tutorial on tube amps:
https://blog.boozhoundlabs.com/a-vacuum-tube-hi-fi-primer-979678e829eb?gi=7b5eeccf72f4
https://blog.boozhoundlabs.com/a-vacuum-tube-hi-fi-primer-979678e829eb?gi=7b5eeccf72f4
LaoTsu
New Member
Update! I went ahead and signed up with Office Depot and sent the TM11-662 training manual PDF for them to print. With delivery, and wire binding, it's only $40. I can't really read stuff well on the internet. Paper is easier, especially for taking notes and highlighting, etc. . .
I'm leaning towards learning enough to design a simple headphone amp - to start. . .
I'm leaning towards learning enough to design a simple headphone amp - to start. . .
LaoTsu
New Member
Yes - I used to have a classic car that was my daily driver. It was so old that I had to find a "NOS" manual for it. It was an expensive manual, but saved me literally thousands on repairs. I also got a paper copy of the confidential "book time" manual insert. The "book time" insert doesn't show you how to fix stuff, rather - it shows the number of shop-hours that fixing something should take.
So when I absolutely *had* to have a mechanic do something (like change ball joints, or other things where it was cheaper for me to not buy special tools) - I could basically tell the mechanic what it was going to cost me. The first time I did this, it was after they quoted me something like 6 hours. I was pulled out the book time insert and said, "um, book time is 2 hours." Never had a problem after that (since I was pretty sure they had the same insert floating around in their shop).
The only reason that I knew that "book time" even existed was I used to have a friend who was an auto mechanic. He told me how he (and other mechanics) make money. Basically, the dealership can only charge book time, especially on warranty repairs. But if he got the job done faster than book time, he still got paid for the X number of hours. This means that a fast mechanic can get paid for "16" hours of work in an 8 hour day. I learned this 35 years ago. Taught me a lesson about how the world really works, LOL.
The flip side to "book time" is that you can get paid for 2 hours of work in an 8 hour day if things go wrong. I guess it averages out sometimes. I have a stack of paper manuals for my Continental. Its got air suspension that most people find to be a complete mystery and a diesel engine that is alien even to me so I go to the manuals fairly often. Unfortunately Ford only made it for one year and there are gaps in the manuals, and some spots where it just says "service procedures not available at this time". Nothing like having to fumble your way through fixing something when even the people who made it can't tell you how.
LaoTsu
New Member
Yes - I think it also causes mechanics to take shortcuts, and sometimes shortcuts are not good!!! On the other hand, this is probably also the origin of the infamous "breaker bar." That is, when you only have an hour to do something, and unsticking a single nut might take half that time - you just get a bigger wrench (or a dremel, or a nut cracker).
I just looked up your car. Yes - I could see how it could be . . . problematic. If it's the one I am thinking of, it has a German engine. That adds another layer of complexity, since when you get parts, you need to figure out if the parts are the same as the source German engine, or if Ford "modded" them slightly. I had a 1963 Dodge Dart with a heavily modded slant six (custom ground cam, ported, polished, two carbs, etc.). However, other than the mods, it was easy to find engine parts, since the engine was in production for nearly 30 years in various forms and was used in nearly all Mopar marques.
Where it got difficult was finding body parts and suspension parts, etc. . . I recall having at one point a guide that showed me which parts transfer from other cars (like a Plymouth Valiant, etc.). Finally, I figured out a basic rule. The basic rule was that if it's a functional part, it pretty much is the same (especially if it looks the same). If it's a cosmetic part, then it's no go. I used to have a 1967 Ford Mustang. Same thing. I was able to use a lot of parts intended for Mercury Cougars, (suspension, shocks, etc. . .)
That's what I am liking about tube stuff so far - it's seems very similar, in that things are defined more by function. I have already used this concept to do some tube rolling in the amp I have. I figured out how to look up which tubes can replace the ones I have. I'm looking forward to building for that reason. I think I want to design something that has a high tolerance for using different tubes. Once I learn more, I will know what I need to do in order to make that happen!!!
yeah, BMW diesel engine. The BMW parts I can get, Ford parts depends on the item, the places where the two meet, forget it. The engine itself is not modified, but the hoses and brackets and whatnot are special items that are NLA. Much of the chassis shares parts with other 80s Fox cars like the Mustang so I can get most of it. Trim is limited to either 4 or 6 years (depending on the part) of a car that just wasn't ever very popular. I have a cracked corner light lens because I can't find a good one, but the wiper linkage cost me 12 bucks to rebuild and it works perfectly. I bought it because it was weird and I thought it might be an interesting challenge. It has been that.
but yeah, a lot of tube gear has way more in common than not. If you get to looking at a lot of amplifier designs you'll start to notice the same basic circuitry over and over again. There are definitely some things that have uncommon circuit bits but usually its just a different way of getting to the same place.
but yeah, a lot of tube gear has way more in common than not. If you get to looking at a lot of amplifier designs you'll start to notice the same basic circuitry over and over again. There are definitely some things that have uncommon circuit bits but usually its just a different way of getting to the same place.
Dandy
Addicted Member
Lao and Gadget, can you guys advise me on how to get started on car maint? So far I have only worked on electrical issues. (There are lots in a 12 year old Renault.) But could I change brake disks and pads or do a service safely? Essential tools, e.g. ramps? I'm not wanting to hijack the thread, but your comments motivate me to ask what's really doable. I can fix pretty much anything, but never maintained my own car.
honestly most things are fixable with some normal tools and common sense. First step is to get the manual and give it a read. It may not tell you what specific tools you'll need for ever task if its just common wrenches and such but it will mention any special tools required. Often the owners manual will indicate the jacking points. You'll need a jack and stands to get under the car safely.
LaoTsu
New Member
LOL, sorry for late reply - I just bought a used Cadillac (been working on it all week).
Yes - gadget nailed it - the manual is key. Re: brakes, you need a floor jack. Ramps won't work. Check out Harbor Freight Tools if there's one near you. Walmart also has floor jacks. Make sure you get jack stands, and read the manual to know the points under the car where it is safe to place a jack. Loosen lug nuts (a little, not a lot) BEFORE you jack up the car - otherwise wheel will spin when you try and loosen.
LaoTsu
New Member
Welcome!!!
