TPA 3116 vs the tripaths

Most of the NOS 6n3p-ev's are matched pairs. You can get 4 for around $20. Just pick a seller with high feedback. I'd order now as shipping will take a few weeks.

The preamp you ordered should be fine with the 3116 and looks to be a better version of mine.


Excellent, I have two matched pairs on the way, can't wait to get them.
 
Excellent, I have two matched pairs on the way, can't wait to get them.

Please share your listening experience with the new tubes. I have a friend who is interested in an affordable tube preamp to use with his TPA3116D2 Class D amp. These amps are so transparent, most of the tube magic like warm tone and bloom comes through to create an incredible soundstage.

My SMSL SA-S1 TA2020 T-amp was probably the best T-amp I had for reproducing a decent soundstage with depth, but it paled in comparison to the TPA3110D2 and TPA3116D2 amps I have now. I sold it to make room for other audio goodies.

Those 6N3-EV tubes are interesting. I believe some people have used these in place of E88CC/6922 tubes with good results. I might have to try a couple matched pairs in my ARC LS7 line stage.

I installed a pair of Panasonic FM 1,500uF / 25V electrolytic caps in place of the stock Nichicon HD 1,000uF / 25V caps on my Yuan Jing 2.0 "blue" amp. I've listening to a wide range of music from Pink Floyd's "Wish You Were Here" to Yo-Yo Ma's "Cello Suites." The Panasonic caps really tightened up the bass with a deeper response, more bass detail and overall clearer sound. I've been thinking about replacing the large blue Epcos film caps at the inputs with Wima MKP10 film caps of the same size, but it's sounding so good now, I may just stop right now and put this amp in a nice Aluminum enclosure similar to the one I used for my Sure Electronics TPA3110D2 amp.
 
Please share your listening experience with the new tubes. I have a friend who is interested in an affordable tube preamp to use with his TPA3116D2 Class D amp. These amps are so transparent, most of the tube magic like warm tone and bloom comes through to create an incredible soundstage.


Those 6N3-EV tubes are interesting. I believe some people have used these in place of E88CC/6922 tubes with good results. I might have to try a couple matched pairs in my ARC LS7 line stage.

I installed a pair of Panasonic FM 1,500uF / 25V electrolytic caps in place of the stock Nichicon HD 1,000uF / 25V caps on my Yuan Jing 2.0 "blue" amp. I've listening to a wide range of music from Pink Floyd's "Wish You Were Here" to Yo-Yo Ma's "Cello Suites." The Panasonic caps really tightened up the bass with a deeper response, more bass detail and overall clearer sound. I've been thinking about replacing the large blue Epcos film caps at the inputs with Wima MKP10 film caps of the same size, but it's sounding so good now, I may just stop right now and put this amp in a nice Aluminum enclosure similar to the one I used for my Sure Electronics TPA3110D2 amp.


I will happily share my experiences with the tubes, looking forward to a bit of tube rolling. That's about my comfort level with customizing with components, I've never held a soldering iron.
 
I learned how to solder watching a few YouTube videos--it's that easy. I made a pair of interconnect cables. My next project was modifying a Sonic Impact T-amp. I haven't looked back since.
 
Got my board last night...initial impressions are very good!!

I have to take it to work and resolder a few joints...static from my left channel...I'm assuming volume pot as it's in crooked LOL!!!
 
Got my board last night...initial impressions are very good!!

I have to take it to work and resolder a few joints...static from my left channel...I'm assuming volume pot as it's in crooked LOL!!!

The Lead-free solder that Yuan Jing uses in their amps appears to have very poor flow properties. On my YJ "blue" amp, I found a cold solder joint, so I touched up all the solder joints and everything is fine. It's a bit more difficult to do that with SMD components on the "red" amp. I've been using the Cardas Quad Eutectic Solder for quite some time, and it works very well.

Yesterday, I scored on an Astron RS-12A regulated linear power supply for $20 through Craigslist. These power supplies list at $100+ brand new. This HAM radio guy was getting rid of some of his equipment and he hardly used this power supply, so it was in mint condition.

Astron RS-12A Regulated Linear Power Supply.jpg

I hooked it up to my YJ amp, and it was clearly superior to the modified Power One MAP110-S148 SMPS I've been using with my T-amps and TI TPA31xx amps lately.

  • Much improved bass definition
  • Larger, deeper soundstage
  • More open, airy sound with greater detail
  • Lower noise floor
  • More presence

Even though the power supply is rated for 9A continuous, it is not driving the current draw. The amp drives current draw, and it only uses about 1-2A on average, but having the available current does a lot for transients, dynamic response and separation between performers.
 
so i found this on the web re your astron:

Linear DC Supply 13.8vdc 12 amps
* Output Voltage: 13.8 VDC (+/- 0.05 V) Internally Adjustable (11-15 V)

i guess you are finding the 13.8volts is enough for the 3116?
 
so i found this on the web re your astron:

Linear DC Supply 13.8vdc 12 amps
* Output Voltage: 13.8 VDC (+/- 0.05 V) Internally Adjustable (11-15 V)

i guess you are finding the 13.8volts is enough for the 3116?

Absolutely. I have an ARC LS7 tube line stage and upgraded Klipsch Forte II floorstanding speakers. With the gain that comes from the LS7 coupled with the speakers' high efficiency, I have no problems with achieving high SPL in my listening room. In fact, I can even use the lower powered Sure Electronics TPA-3110D2 amp with no problems.
 
Hifimediy Sabre DAC to the left...switch box in the middle (so I can source DAC and my table)...and behind the amp is a Wandboard...streams music from my computer via it's built in SqueezeServer program :)

Next step was to bypass my computer all together and put a hard drive on the WB...which would show up as a network driver so I can update new music!!

Still haven't got much time with it but I can say it does beat out my Virtue I once had and my Muse I do have...quite handily too...

Oh and my supply is 12V...19A though!!!
 
19A? You got some juice there!

Thanks for explaining you high fashion digital console unit. Really cool stuff.
 
Ya...5v\12v rails both at 19 amps each...had to salvage it from work!!

At this point in time I really don't feel the need to add that 6n3 preamp...

And get this...I run Fostex FF85WK's in the Lance build (TL monitor)...sub isn't on...definitely not lacking bass!! Really good stereo separation as well...
 
Looks great! Can't wait to get my setup here, and up'n'running.

By the way, I'm a huge Peanuts fan...looks like you are too!
 
Got mine tonight - took 9 days. Sounds good! Running on 18V 3.4A brick and using my old IPod mini to test. Will keep listening and see where this goes, impressive little board.
 

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Anyone compared the 3116 with a 12V vs the higher options? I planned to try a 24V 5.0A that came with the Dayton but I was so distracted with just the 12V I never did.

My serious speakers use full range high efficiency drivers 93-98dbs and I'm accustomed to low power tube amps. Anything over 3 watts gives lots of headroom. I'm thinking maybe a higher power PS may not improve things but perhaps others can weigh in who use HE speakers.
 
Anyone compared the 3116 with a 12V vs the higher options? I planned to try a 24V 5.0A that came with the Dayton but I was so distracted with just the 12V I never did.

My serious speakers use full range high efficiency drivers 93-98dbs and I'm accustomed to low power tube amps. Anything over 3 watts gives lots of headroom. I'm thinking maybe a higher power PS may not improve things but perhaps others can weigh in who use HE speakers.

On the diyAudio.com forum thread on this amp, some guys experimented with different power supplies and voltages.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/237086-tpa3116d2-amp-137.html#post3793577

Surprisingly, anything above 21V DC produced poorer sound quality. The claim was also made that there wasn't much difference between 12V DC and 21V DC except output, which may or may not be an issue depending on speaker efficiency and room acoustics.

I try to stay around 12V so I can use a common power supply for all my Class D and chip amp (TDA7297) projects. My personal experience with T-amps has been that current is equally as important as voltage as long as the power supply is reasonably regulated. I heard this with the Virtue Two and SMSL SA-S1 T-amps when I switched from brick-type PSUs generating a few amps to larger PSUs generating >5A. The higher current and better regulation translated into a fuller, richer sound with improved bass and dynamic response.
 
i just hooked up to a 12.34v, 7A power supply last night and the sound is sublime with my YJ TPA3116 blue board. I'm driving Cornwalls in near field. The power supply is an open frame regulated linear power supply that I got from my father in law that he ha stashed away on his unused HAM parts shelf. It's older than me (so 32+), but works beautifully without any noise.
 
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