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Transport problem on Pioneer CT-9R

I have the Pioneer CT-7R cassette deck. It is in mint condition, plays well, autoreverse works a treat, but like yours it does not erase or record. I am not understanding your fix insructions as I am not up on fixing this stuff. HELP!

Hi there and sorry for the delay in responding. First of all there were 3 versions of the mechanism itself. Mine is the oldest and probably least common. With that said the head/heads are on both sides of the main Playback head and are screwed and glued to shafts that protrude from behind the main head on a swivel type of Mount. Those shafts that the small heads are screwed to become loose and sort of move around at will sometimes not making contact with the tape itself which will cause zero recording and or erasing for sure. With all of this movement the wires attached to the heads become loose which requires a solder reheat with a little more applied. The larger connector on the right side also tends to develop bad solder joints to the mechanism board. It's a very poor design. I didn't have access to a new part that the shafts attach to so I did my best to cold weld/epoxy the loose shafts back as straight as I could. Then reinstalled the heads on both sides of the main playback head and carefully screwed the little slotted screws back onto the shafts and lined them up via the screws as close as I could. Meaning the tape didn't rub or curl on the sides of the tape itself as it was traveling or playing.
Kind regards Randy Brown
 
Hello, and Thanks. I will give it a try and see how it goes when I get a chance. I am refurbishing the swimming pool at the moment so my hifi projects are on hold. I am repairing not only the Pioneer CT-7R but also reconing a pair of Pioneer HPM-700 speakers. Waiting for the new cone,spider and coil from China. I am also waiting for a new dustcover being made for my Micro-Seiki Turntable. So as you can see it is all go over here in Spain. Anyway, thanks again for your help, much appreciated.
 
First, thanks to everyone who has chimed-in on this thread. It's been very helpful, and it filled-in a bit of Swiss-cheese in my brain from when I sold these years ago.

So, my story is similar. Recently I picked up a 9r on the Bay. The head wouldn't turn freely. Removing the mechanism revealed no obvious obstructions, however it was clear the head swivel mechanism needed lubrication. I replaced the belt (no real issue with that, but you do need to remember it's a direct drive motor under the right flywheel. Anyway, having a similar issue with an Awai AD-R650 that had dried grease on the shaft of a stubbornly-turning head, I used small drops of penetrating fluid on the head assembly shaft. I moved it manually until it began turning freely. The gear mechanism has a spring that is designed to "snap" the head into place against its azimuth stops. I replaced the spring with a stronger one, and the mechanism now turns freely and properly.

Other issues continue. Or, they aren't issues, but merely poor design. I have not verified the number stated in prior posts. Fast forward and rewind partially engage the head assembly, although I have not called for music search. It plays for a while and sometimes the mechanism will just stop, appearing to have trouble on take-up, but when the tape is removed, the take-up reels spin freely and go to an oddly high speed (probably another problem I just didn't know about). Other design flaws are apparent, such as a board in the back with one screw, but two holes (the second hole does not align with the screw mount hole beneath it, so only one screw is holding the small board). Economy is evident as the plastic chassis is a divorce from the solidly-built prior line (CT-F900/950/1250 -- all of which I have picked-up and fixed).

FWIW, I entered retail sales in 1981, right at the time the prior Pioneer line was being phased out and these rather ugly and cheap machines hit the market. I worked at Standard Sales/Wilsons/Leads -- a catalog showroom chain in Florida, and I ran the sound room at one of the locations while getting my degree in college. I can't remember ever taking a return on a CT-F900/950/1250 -- even for repair; they could be dropped from the back of a truck and still play/record like new. But I have the memory of going into work only to find we'd taken a return on one of these decks -- it would be on my bench for me to verify needed to be replaced or sent to repair. They were junk. Electronics aside, which are useless w/o a good mechanism. No offense to anyone who loves these, but the "champaign" matte face meant you never knew when it was clean. Combined with the cheap plastic components, and LED segments all of which were such a vast departure from the prior line's clean, sleek, brushed aluminum with beautiful blue FL displays and clear controls that, when placed side-by-side, you might think they weren't made by the same company.

I'll get this one working. So far, I have recorded a test on a high bias tape, and it played back on my 1250 excellently. So, hope remains.

Oh, and one last seriously unfortunate feature on this deck -- it records in one direction only. From the look of the mechanism, having that second "dummy" erase head as a guide, I can't help but think an early concept of the 9r included bi-directional recording. Being in product management now, I can see how the then product manager would have been told to cut that feature as "unnecessary" at the time. However, the later Aiwa (that was a three-head model, too) I mentioned earlier had it. But the deck would need a second erase head and circuitry to command it. It didn't hit me at first, and then I vaguely remembered that was an odd "left out" feature from when I was selling them. I've never seen an auto-reverse deck before or after this model that didn't have bi-directional recording (I know about the Dragon, but successive decks from Sony, Aiwa, etc. did have bi-directional recording).

If anyone does have the drive assembly exploded parts view, that would help me quite a bit. This unit does not look like anyone has been in it (original clips/wiring/etc.). But before I go too far, I'd like to study the mechanism design.
 
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First, thanks to everyone who has chimed-in on this thread. It's been very helpful, and it filled-in a bit of Swiss-cheese in my brain from when I sold these years ago.

So, my story is similar. Recently I picked up a 9r on the Bay. The head wouldn't turn freely. Removing the mechanism revealed no obvious obstructions, however it was clear the head swivel mechanism needed lubrication. I replaced the belt (no real issue with that, but you do need to remember it's a direct drive motor under the right flywheel. Anyway, having a similar issue with an Awai AD-R650 that had dried grease on the shaft of a stubbornly-turning head, I used small drops of penetrating fluid on the head assembly shaft. I moved it manually until it began turning freely. The gear mechanism has a spring that is designed to "snap" the head into place against its azimuth stops. I replaced the spring with a stronger one, and the mechanism now turns freely and properly.

Other issues continue. Or, they aren't issues, but merely poor design. I have not verified the number stated in prior posts. Fast forward and rewind partially engage the head assembly, although I have not called for music search. It plays for a while and sometimes the mechanism will just stop, appearing to have trouble on take-up, but when the tape is removed, the take-up reels spin freely and go to an oddly high speed (probably another problem I just didn't know about). Other design flaws are apparent, such as a board in the back with one screw, but two holes (the second hole does not align with the screw mount hole beneath it, so only one screw is holding the small board). Economy is evident as the plastic chassis is a divorce from the solidly-built prior line (CT-F900/950/1250 -- all of which I have picked-up and fixed).

FWIW, I entered retail sales in 1981, right at the time the prior Pioneer line was being phased out and these rather ugly and cheap machines hit the market. I worked at Standard Sales/Wilsons/Leads -- a catalog showroom chain in Florida, and I ran the sound room at one of the locations while getting my degree in college. I can't remember ever taking a return on a CT-F900/950/1250 -- even for repair; they could be dropped from the back of a truck and still play/record like new. But I have the memory of going into work only to find we'd taken a return on one of these decks -- it would be on my bench for me to verify needed to be replaced or sent to repair. They were junk. Electronics aside, which are useless w/o a good mechanism. No offense to anyone who loves these, but the "champaign" matte face meant you never knew when it was clean. Combined with the cheap plastic components, and LED segments all of which were such a vast departure from the prior line's clean, sleek, brushed aluminum with beautiful blue FL displays and clear controls that, when placed side-by-side, you might think they weren't made by the same company.

I'll get this one working. So far, I have recorded a test on a high bias tape, and it played back on my 1250 excellently. So, hope remains.

Oh, and one last seriously unfortunate feature on this deck -- it records in one direction only. From the look of the mechanism, having that second "dummy" erase head as a guide, I can't help but think an early concept of the 9r included bi-directional recording. Being in product management now, I can see how the then product manager would have been told to cut that feature as "unnecessary" at the time. However, the later Aiwa (that was a three-head model, too) I mentioned earlier had it. But the deck would need a second erase head and circuitry to command it. It didn't hit me at first, and then I vaguely remembered that was an odd "left out" feature from when I was selling them. I've never seen an auto-reverse deck before or after this model that didn't have bi-directional recording (I know about the Dragon, but successive decks from Sony, Aiwa, etc. did have bi-directional recording).

If anyone does have the drive assembly exploded parts view, that would help me quite a bit. This unit does not look like anyone has been in it (original clips/wiring/etc.). But before I go too far, I'd like to study the mechanism design.
First, thanks to everyone who has chimed-in on this thread. It's been very helpful, and it filled-in a bit of Swiss-cheese in my brain from when I sold these years ago.

So, my story is similar. Recently I picked up a 9r on the Bay. The head wouldn't turn freely. Removing the mechanism revealed no obvious obstructions, however it was clear the head swivel mechanism needed lubrication. I replaced the belt (no real issue with that, but you do need to remember it's a direct drive motor under the right flywheel. Anyway, having a similar issue with an Awai AD-R650 that had dried grease on the shaft of a stubbornly-turning head, I used small drops of penetrating fluid on the head assembly shaft. I moved it manually until it began turning freely. The gear mechanism has a spring that is designed to "snap" the head into place against its azimuth stops. I replaced the spring with a stronger one, and the mechanism now turns freely and properly.

Other issues continue. Or, they aren't issues, but merely poor design. I have not verified the number stated in prior posts. Fast forward and rewind partially engage the head assembly, although I have not called for music search. It plays for a while and sometimes the mechanism will just stop, appearing to have trouble on take-up, but when the tape is removed, the take-up reels spin freely and go to an oddly high speed (probably another problem I just didn't know about). Other design flaws are apparent, such as a board in the back with one screw, but two holes (the second hole does not align with the screw mount hole beneath it, so only one screw is holding the small board). Economy is evident as the plastic chassis is a divorce from the solidly-built prior line (CT-F900/950/1250 -- all of which I have picked-up and fixed).

FWIW, I entered retail sales in 1981, right at the time the prior Pioneer line was being phased out and these rather ugly and cheap machines hit the market. I worked at Standard Sales/Wilsons/Leads -- a catalog showroom chain in Florida, and I ran the sound room at one of the locations while getting my degree in college. I can't remember ever taking a return on a CT-F900/950/1250 -- even for repair; they could be dropped from the back of a truck and still play/record like new. But I have the memory of going into work only to find we'd taken a return on one of these decks -- it would be on my bench for me to verify needed to be replaced or sent to repair. They were junk. Electronics aside, which are useless w/o a good mechanism. No offense to anyone who loves these, but the "champaign" matte face meant you never knew when it was clean. Combined with the cheap plastic components, and LED segments all of which were such a vast departure from the prior line's clean, sleek, brushed aluminum with beautiful blue FL displays and clear controls that, when placed side-by-side, you might think they weren't made by the same company.

I'll get this one working. So far, I have recorded a test on a high bias tape, and it played back on my 1250 excellently. So, hope remains.

Oh, and one last seriously unfortunate feature on this deck -- it records in one direction only. From the look of the mechanism, having that second "dummy" erase head as a guide, I can't help but think an early concept of the 9r included bi-directional recording. Being in product management now, I can see how the then product manager would have been told to cut that feature as "unnecessary" at the time. However, the later Aiwa (that was a three-head model, too) I mentioned earlier had it. But the deck would need a second erase head and circuitry to command it. It didn't hit me at first, and then I vaguely remembered that was an odd "left out" feature from when I was selling them. I've never seen an auto-reverse deck before or after this model that didn't have bi-directional recording (I know about the Dragon, but successive decks from Sony, Aiwa, etc. did have bi-directional recording).

If anyone does have the drive assembly exploded parts view, that would help me quite a bit. This unit does not look like anyone has been in it (original clips/wiring/etc.). But before I go too far, I'd like to study the mechanism design.
 
Hi, I have the exploded view of the cassette mechanism for the CT R-7. I do believe that all the CT range (5-9) has the same unit. I hope this helps.CT7 1.jpg
CT7 2.jpg
 
Layesera, thank you! That's a great help. BTW -- I like the open reel decks in the background on your profile picture! I have a wonderful Akai GX-636 that I picked up in the mid-90s at a local flea market for $50. The only real maintenance I've had to perform on it, aside for Deoxit-ing the switches inside the case, was to replace a rectifier.
 
First, thanks to everyone who has chimed-in on this thread. It's been very helpful, and it filled-in a bit of Swiss-cheese in my brain from when I sold these years ago.

So, my story is similar. Recently I picked up a 9r on the Bay. The head wouldn't turn freely. Removing the mechanism revealed no obvious obstructions, however it was clear the head swivel mechanism needed lubrication. I replaced the belt (no real issue with that, but you do need to remember it's a direct drive motor under the right flywheel. Anyway, having a similar issue with an Awai AD-R650 that had dried grease on the shaft of a stubbornly-turning head, I used small drops of penetrating fluid on the head assembly shaft. I moved it manually until it began turning freely. The gear mechanism has a spring that is designed to "snap" the head into place against its azimuth stops. I replaced the spring with a stronger one, and the mechanism now turns freely and properly.

Other issues continue. Or, they aren't issues, but merely poor design. I have not verified the number stated in prior posts. Fast forward and rewind partially engage the head assembly, although I have not called for music search. It plays for a while and sometimes the mechanism will just stop, appearing to have trouble on take-up, but when the tape is removed, the take-up reels spin freely and go to an oddly high speed (probably another problem I just didn't know about). Other design flaws are apparent, such as a board in the back with one screw, but two holes (the second hole does not align with the screw mount hole beneath it, so only one screw is holding the small board). Economy is evident as the plastic chassis is a divorce from the solidly-built prior line (CT-F900/950/1250 -- all of which I have picked-up and fixed).

FWIW, I entered retail sales in 1981, right at the time the prior Pioneer line was being phased out and these rather ugly and cheap machines hit the market. I worked at Standard Sales/Wilsons/Leads -- a catalog showroom chain in Florida, and I ran the sound room at one of the locations while getting my degree in college. I can't remember ever taking a return on a CT-F900/950/1250 -- even for repair; they could be dropped from the back of a truck and still play/record like new. But I have the memory of going into work only to find we'd taken a return on one of these decks -- it would be on my bench for me to verify needed to be replaced or sent to repair. They were junk. Electronics aside, which are useless w/o a good mechanism. No offense to anyone who loves these, but the "champaign" matte face meant you never knew when it was clean. Combined with the cheap plastic components, and LED segments all of which were such a vast departure from the prior line's clean, sleek, brushed aluminum with beautiful blue FL displays and clear controls that, when placed side-by-side, you might think they weren't made by the same company.

I'll get this one working. So far, I have recorded a test on a high bias tape, and it played back on my 1250 excellently. So, hope remains.

Oh, and one last seriously unfortunate feature on this deck -- it records in one direction only. From the look of the mechanism, having that second "dummy" erase head as a guide, I can't help but think an early concept of the 9r included bi-directional recording. Being in product management now, I can see how the then product manager would have been told to cut that feature as "unnecessary" at the time. However, the later Aiwa (that was a three-head model, too) I mentioned earlier had it. But the deck would need a second erase head and circuitry to command it. It didn't hit me at first, and then I vaguely remembered that was an odd "left out" feature from when I was selling them. I've never seen an auto-reverse deck before or after this model that didn't have bi-directional recording (I know about the Dragon, but successive decks from Sony, Aiwa, etc. did have bi-directional recording).

If anyone does have the drive assembly exploded parts view, that would help me quite a bit. This unit does not look like anyone has been in it (original clips/wiring/etc.). But before I go too far, I'd like to study the mechanism design.
The early versions did indeed record in both directions until the version #2 of 3 came out. Actually there was a forth version that was shipped without the head assy.
I have a #1 version of the ct-7r that will record both directions. Cool when working, I find that if you play these decks only a few minutes a week and switch directions of the tape. They seem to work better or should I say more consistently.
Regards Randy
 
Randy -- they did! But the 8r and the 9r were three-head decks (the difference: the 8r had an analog tape counter whereas the 9r had a digital tape counter). My Aiwa AD-R650 is a three head deck that has bi-directional recording. And, you're right, regular use does keep these things humming along. The only issue other than the lubricant used is the belts typically need replacing. If subjected to heat for prolonged periods of time (like left in an attic), those belts turn to tar (tough to clean out, but well-worth the time to get one of these decks back to prime condition). One thing you will notice with this series is the transport did retain the heavy capstan flywheels, which did a lot to keep wow & flutter to a minimum.

One other thing worth noting is that this 9r I've been servicing is producing crystal-clear results on standard Type-1 cassettes (like the Maxell UD-90). Top decks certainly can get the best from any tape, but if you can get a Type-1 recording that rivals that of a Type-4 (metal) tape, that's saying something.

I'll continue my odyssey on the 9r and I might pick-up a 7r to see how different they are inside. Then, I'll climb through the 80's into the Pioneer high-end auto-reverse decks of the 90s (although I do have a CT-WM70R which has two of what must have become the terminal release of the Pioneer transport mechanisms -- plastic, weighted flywheels, dependent on perfect square belts and prone to very high wow & flutter -- definitely not an audiophile deck in any way).
 
Layesera, thank you! That's a great help. BTW -- I like the open reel decks in the background on your profile picture! I have a wonderful Akai GX-636 that I picked up in the mid-90s at a local flea market for $50. The only real maintenance I've had to perform on it, aside for Deoxit-ing the switches inside the case, was to replace a rectifier.
Hi, Sadly the decks are no more. I sold the Tascam 32 two year ago having had it from new, Then I sold the Sony TC.765 which I also bought new and was mint, selling that was a mistake.Sony Tascam.jpg
 
Randy -- they did! But the 8r and the 9r were three-head decks (the difference: the 8r had an analog tape counter whereas the 9r had a digital tape counter). My Aiwa AD-R650 is a three head deck that has bi-directional recording. And, you're right, regular use does keep these things humming along. The only issue other than the lubricant used is the belts typically need replacing. If subjected to heat for prolonged periods of time (like left in an attic), those belts turn to tar (tough to clean out, but well-worth the time to get one of these decks back to prime condition). One thing you will notice with this series is the transport did retain the heavy capstan flywheels, which did a lot to keep wow & flutter to a minimum.

One other thing worth noting is that this 9r I've been servicing is producing crystal-clear results on standard Type-1 cassettes (like the Maxell UD-90). Top decks certainly can get the best from any tape, but if you can get a Type-1 recording that rivals that of a Type-4 (metal) tape, that's saying something.

I'll continue my odyssey on the 9r and I might pick-up a 7r to see how different they are inside. Then, I'll climb through the 80's into the Pioneer high-end auto-reverse decks of the 90s (although I do have a CT-WM70R which has two of what must have become the terminal release of the Pioneer transport mechanisms -- plastic, weighted flywheels, dependent on perfect square belts and prone to very high wow & flutter -- definitely not an audiophile deck in any way).

Hey Cody what calibration tape or Dolby level tape did you use and what voltage did you set it for on TP1 and 2 for PB level?
 
Randy -- on which unit, the CT-9R? For the calibration tape, I have one with multiple frequencies recorded and a beat track for timing. I measure the output with an oscilloscope to ensure the playback is matching the frequency. I didn't attempt to change any of the pots on the 9R, and I don't have the proper equipment to calibrate the Dolby circuits.

The 9R is now serviced and ready to sell on eBay. FWIW, I've been testing it, letting it play back and forth all day to make sure there's no problem with the head turning. But, I was running into an odd problem -- it would play back and forth and then eventually just stop at one of the ends. Finally, I looked at the manual: the unit will play a tape back and forth for seven (7) times. I've never had an auto-reverse deck that was engineered to stop.
 
Randy -- on which unit, the CT-9R? For the calibration tape, I have one with multiple frequencies recorded and a beat track for timing. I measure the output with an oscilloscope to ensure the playback is matching the frequency. I didn't attempt to change any of the pots on the 9R, and I don't have the proper equipment to calibrate the Dolby circuits.

The 9R is now serviced and ready to sell on eBay. FWIW, I've been testing it, letting it play back and forth all day to make sure there's no problem with the head turning. But, I was running into an odd problem -- it would play back and forth and then eventually just stop at one of the ends. Finally, I looked at the manual: the unit will play a tape back and forth for seven (7) times. I've never had an auto-reverse deck that was engineered to stop.

Yes the ct-9r, I was hoping you would have calibrated the Dolby Level/PB along with the Record Level. Oh well good luck selling it! And thanks for responding.
 
Hello guys
I have recently acquired an Akai GX747 stored in a room for 20 years it plays but it misses the high frequency maybe this from my tapes cause they are very old (bright brown color). In addition recording is very week so I have to turn all the line nop to max and the recording also misses the high frequency. I tried to check the PCB voltage in the preamp section all readings are higher. than the schematics with a 1% and this seems reasonable due to the resistors and caps age. However in left channel the 2SC458 is reading much lower than the right channel. Is there any notes or advices to overcome these or I have to go all the way and change everything (resistors and caps)

I have replaced the 2SC458s with new ones and. it is the same, I tried. with new 2240 and it is the same. The noise in the Oscilloscope is like a white noise in recording mode around 80k to 100k hz with both monitoring line and tape
Also the bar meter is disfunctioning in both line and tape mode.

thanks
 
Hi, aamed96! You might want to post this question in one of the Akai threads dealing with the GX-747, which looks like an extraordinary deck! Those 458s must be in the preamp section, which is probably where the problem is; but not with those transistors.

I have tapes dating back to the 1950s which sound bright and wonderful on my Akai GX-636.

While transistors could be an issue in your deck, I'd attack the electrolytic capacitors in the preamp/record section first. Resistors rarely are the culprit in this sort of situation. And these small silicon NPN transistors tend to live a long life.

Start with the small capacitors in that section, pull them and test them with a Fluke or other meter. I think you'll find that's the issue.

One other thing you might want to look at is using DeOxit on all the mechanical switches, if you are experiencing a full channel drop out. But from your description, my money is on those old, small electrolytics.

Go ahead and move your thread to a new on or one of the Akai GX threads. They may know more than I do, for sure.

And, whatever you do, don't trash that wonderful deck!
 
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Hi, aamed96! You might want to post this question in one of the Akai threads dealing with the GX-747, which looks like an extraordinary deck! Those 458s must be in the preamp section, which is probably where the problem is; but not with those transistors.

I have tapes dating back to the 1950s which sound bright and wonderful on my Akai GX-636.

While transistors could be an issue in your deck, I'd attack the electrolytic capacitors in the preamp/record section first. Resistors rarely are the culprit in this sort of situation. And these small silicon NPN transistors tend to live a long life.

Start with the small capacitors in that section, pull them and test them with a Fluke or other meter. I think you'll find that's the issue.

One other thing you might want to look at is using DeOxit on all the mechanical switches, if you are experiencing a full channel drop out. But from your description, my money is on those old, small electrolytics.

Go ahead and move your thread to a new on or one of the Akai GX threads. They may know more than I do, for sure.

And, whatever you do, don't trash that wonderful deck!

hello again I have recapped all caps & some transistors in for the unit and clean the mechanical switches with polishing only with cotton so that I will not lose the connection layer and it was fun to do.The main issue were caps have lost more than a 70% of their values and lead to damage some transistors. Now it is playing and recording as it should be I also have adjusted the recording levels for FWD and REV
regards
ahmed ramadhan
 

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aamed96 -- nice! Yup, all the electrolytic caps I've pulled from recent projects have been way out of tolerance and have contributed to serious issues with the decks I've been restoring.
 
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