Tube Socket Question

[flasher1]

Hey All.
I am new to tube amps etc and am restoring a Magnavox 9302 amplifier. I want to replace all the tube sockets but I am confused as to which sockets I should use. The octal rectifier socket is no problem but the 9 pin sockets have me wondering which ones I should purchase. The power tubes (6BQ5) have different stock sockets from the other two output sockets. Both are 9 pin...?
Can anyone out there educated me so I can get these suckers ordered?

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

 

[cubby01]

Are the holes in the chassis the same size? If so go for the micalex type sockets that are under the power tubes for all 9-pin holes. (i.e. Ditch the two wafer type under the 6EU7s and replace them.)

EDIT: there's usually no great reason for replacing these sockets unless you are really intent on replacing every cap and resistor anyway. If you are going to all that trouble you'd have to ask yourself would maybe a slighly different circuit on the same chassis be a better way to go? Hmmm :scratch2:

 

[gadget73]

I have some really nice ceramic sockets purchased out of the former Soviet Union that I got on that auction site a while ago for peanuts. They would mount from the top though, if thats visually a concern for you.

If they are actually worn out or damaged though, using something better than those wafer sockets is a good thing. Those were the cheap of the cheap when new, and 50 years later they haven't exactly gotten better with age. Most any micalex, phenolic or ceramic socket with metal contacts would be better.

 

[sKiZo]

And just to clarify your question about the two different socket types in your rig ... any 9 pin mini socket should work fine. You can prove that by doing a quick tube swap - just make sure you get them back where they belong. From there, it's all about quality. Looks like your amp uses a standard size below the chassis mount, so the hardest part will be getting the old rivets out. 1/8 inch drill should do the job, then just hit up the local hardware for screws and star washer nuts ...

Make sure you replace all the carbon resistors while you're at it. Probably nowhere near spec anymore ...

 

[flasher1]

Thanks All for you quick replies.....that is the main thing I like about AK, everyone is quick to assist.
Anyway, the reason I am replacing all the sockets is that I was unsoldering them yesterday and removing everything from the chassis to clean it and get it ready to re-work and broke several solder tabs so for reliability sake, I decided to replace them all. This is my first re-build and I want it to be correct and clean and neat. I am kind of anal about neatness.......
I have already drilled out all of the sockets, no problem there but I did notice that some of those rivets are much harder than others......
I have already received all the caps but I am working on a list for the resistors in the amp. Might as well replace them all also. I did meter a few of them out yesterday and they are all over the place.
To answer cubby01, I am modifying the amp to the generally accepted stand alone mods that are here on AK, so it won't be a stock unit. This means the normal, fuse, removal of the hum and balance pots, new orange drop caps, and power switch, removing the big silver cap, etc.
Remember I am a babe in the woods here so the changes need to be well documented so I don't screw up!!!! Done that many times!!!
So back to creating a resistor shopping list......

Many thanks,:yes:

 

[flasher1]

Almost forgot.....what size wire do I need for all the work under the chassis?
And solid or stranded? Finally is there a "standard" for the colors used?
Dumb questions but questions none the less.................

 

[sKiZo]

20 gauge solid wire seems to be the popular choice. I also use 22 gauge for signal wires like meters, trim pots, and such. Here's a nice kit that gives you six primary colors to work with ...

http://www.elexp.com/cbl_ld25.htm

For proper color coding ...

http://draftingmanuals.tpub.com/14040/css/14040_91.htm

... but I just put in what I think is pretty ... <G>

Mostly all I'm concerned about is being able to trace a wire thru a bundle from point A to point B. If I run out of colors, I draw lines with either a black or silver sharpie to keep them easy to spot.

 

[gadget73]

I'd suggest leaving the hum pot, and retaining its original configuration with the tie to one of the output tube cathodes. Having a bit of DC on the heaters helps reduce hum, and being able to null it can make a difference. Honestly I've never had hum issues with a Magnavox amp, but some of my other amps absolutely need that hum pot in order to be properly silent.

 

[flasher1]

20 gauge solid wire seems to be the popular choice. I also use 22 gauge for signal wires like meters, trim pots, and such. Here's a nice kit that gives you six primary colors to work with ...

http://www.elexp.com/cbl_ld25.htm

For proper color coding ...

http://draftingmanuals.tpub.com/14040/css/14040_91.htm

... but I just put in what I think is pretty ... <G>

Mostly all I'm concerned about is being able to trace a wire thru a bundle from point A to point B. If I run out of colors, I draw lines with either a black or silver sharpie to keep them easy to spot.

Very nice work and thanks for the info. It really helps.