• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Tubes4HiFi VTA 12AU7 vs 6SN7

SS904

AK Subscriber
Subscriber
I've been using the 9 pin 12AU7 VTA drivers in my MK3 clones for a few years. Always happy with them, although I did find some 12AU7s pretty bright. The best sounding to me were JJ ECC802 as they took off a bit of the edge. I did try the 12BH7, but had a hard time finding some that were not severely microphonic. I decided to try the octal version. No real need to, but it's a hobby, right?

Got them built and installed over the weekend. Ran all day Sunday.

I did make some changes over my installed 9 pin versions. Added the 100uF cap upgrade and didn't use the supplied Jantzen coupling caps. I had some Audyn caps I wanted to try. I don't think there's much difference, they are the same metalized polypropylene 400V build. About the same physical size too, just wanted to point out my comparison is not only a tube change. One other change that I've been looking forward to was adding 25 turn bias pots in place of the single turn hyper-sensitive supplied pots. Much nicer!

The boards differ very little in component selection. Only the resistors for the PI CCS regulation and gain stage grid leak resistor were changed. I'll add here that the drawn schematics for both boards differed quite a bit from the supplied components / BOM. It seems like the drawings were early versions and never updated as the circuit was tweaked.

I installed the LM335 on the bottom of the boards. Seemed too close to the larger ceramic tube socket to me. Possible heat issue.

Well. I really think after some time listing to familiar tracks that the 6SN7 is a much better tube choice for this circuit. The 12AU7 was fine, but immediately I noticed not more bass, but more bass punch / presence. Possibly the bigger 100uF caps, but there is more everything to be honest. Seems more dynamic / lively a bit more holographic. The pops at the end Deacon Blues were "wider" more pronounced. Nothing dramatic or night and day, but a quite a bit more than I was expecting.

Was hoping to get some decent before and after tests in, but my laptop that I use with ARTA kicked off. I think I fried the sound card with too much juice to the mic in... I did look at power out and SQ waves. Pretty much unchanged. Would have liked to see FR sweeps and distortion. Something for later when I can get back up with another laptop.

I'd say if you're looking at these and unsure, probably go for the octal if you have the PT to handle a little more filament current and are OK with the aesthetic. If you're like me with perfectly fine 9 pin boards and are just wondering, yeah, do it. They are pretty inexpensive and you could always flip them if you wanted. I'm keeping mine.IMG_0332.jpg
IMG_0322.jpg
IMG_0323.jpeg
 
Register to hide this ad
I've been using the 9 pin 12AU7 VTA drivers in my MK3 clones for a few years. Always happy with them, although I did find some 12AU7s pretty bright. The best sounding to me were JJ ECC802 as they took off a bit of the edge. I did try the 12BH7, but had a hard time finding some that were not severely microphonic. I decided to try the octal version. No real need to, but it's a hobby, right?

Got them built and installed over the weekend. Ran all day Sunday.

I did make some changes over my installed 9 pin versions. Added the 100uF cap upgrade and didn't use the supplied Jantzen coupling caps. I had some Audyn caps I wanted to try. I don't think there's much difference, they are the same metalized polypropylene 400V build. About the same physical size too, just wanted to point out my comparison is not only a tube change. One other change that I've been looking forward to was adding 25 turn bias pots in place of the single turn hyper-sensitive supplied pots. Much nicer!

The boards differ very little in component selection. Only the resistors for the PI CCS regulation and gain stage grid leak resistor were changed. I'll add here that the drawn schematics for both boards differed quite a bit from the supplied components / BOM. It seems like the drawings were early versions and never updated as the circuit was tweaked.

I installed the LM335 on the bottom of the boards. Seemed too close to the larger ceramic tube socket to me. Possible heat issue.

Well. I really think after some time listing to familiar tracks that the 6SN7 is a much better tube choice for this circuit. The 12AU7 was fine, but immediately I noticed not more bass, but more bass punch / presence. Possibly the bigger 100uF caps, but there is more everything to be honest. Seems more dynamic / lively a bit more holographic. The pops at the end Deacon Blues were "wider" more pronounced. Nothing dramatic or night and day, but a quite a bit more than I was expecting.

Was hoping to get some decent before and after tests in, but my laptop that I use with ARTA kicked off. I think I fried the sound card with too much juice to the mic in... I did look at power out and SQ waves. Pretty much unchanged. Would have liked to see FR sweeps and distortion. Something for later when I can get back up with another laptop.

I'd say if you're looking at these and unsure, probably go for the octal if you have the PT to handle a little more filament current and are OK with the aesthetic. If you're like me with perfectly fine 9 pin boards and are just wondering, yeah, do it. They are pretty inexpensive and you could always flip them if you wanted. I'm keeping mine.View attachment 3701619
View attachment 3701618
View attachment 3701621
Were you using new manufacture 12BH7's?
Every NOS 12BH7 I've bought sounds great, and have been non microphonoic. I have Sylvania's, Siemens, and Phillips. I have them in my M-125 mono blocks, and VTA ST-70. I only use them in the voltage gain socket though. So one per amp. I tried an EH new manufacture 12BH7 and it caused a hum and was microphonic. I tossed it in the trash and stuck with old stock tubes.
 
Were you using new manufacture 12BH7's?
Every NOS 12BH7 I've bought sounds great, and have been non microphonoic. I have Sylvania's, Siemens, and Phillips. I have them in my M-125 mono blocks, and VTA ST-70. I only use them in the voltage gain socket though. So one per amp. I tried an EH new manufacture 12BH7 and it caused a hum and was microphonic. I tossed it in the trash and stuck with old stock tubes.
I tried EHX new issues. One was good the other was microphonic. I have a few of the old stock listed on hand. Again, some good, most were microphonic. Must just be my bad luck. I could have gone through Tube Depot and checked the block for noise and microphonics test, but for the cost, the octal VTA drivers are a no brainer. I had some 6SN7s on hand, but picked up a few more. Got a good quad of Sylvania 6SN7 for less than the price of a pair tested noise free 12BH7 at Tube Depot! Been thinking about trying the octal VTAs for a bit anyway.
 
I'm still really surprised they don't do a 6CG7 board. Electrically the same as a 6SN7, just in a 9 pin bottle.
I have Triode Electronics boards in my MKIII,s (if you can still call them that).
These boards have jumpers that can be switched to allow 6CG7’s to be used.
I have considered doing this but so far have not. I think it would not be too hard to replace the jumpers with a switch if you really were careful on not running it wrong.IMG_9604.jpeg
 
I tried EHX new issues. One was good the other was microphonic. I have a few of the old stock listed on hand. Again, some good, most were microphonic. Must just be my bad luck. I could have gone through Tube Depot and checked the block for noise and microphonics test, but for the cost, the octal VTA drivers are a no brainer. I had some 6SN7s on hand, but picked up a few more. Got a good quad of Sylvania 6SN7 for less than the price of a pair tested noise free 12BH7 at Tube Depot! Been thinking about trying the octal VTAs for a bit anyway.
I should have gone with the octal boards for my mono blocks.
Maybe I've just been lucky so far with the old stock 12BH7's. I've bought four of them. The first one I used developed a short after a couple years. It made popping noise. I turned the amp off and reseated the tubes, turned it on again and the the tube shorted out. The other three have been fine so far. The one in my ST-70 has been in the amp for at leased 10 years.
 
Last edited:
I forget what I tried a 12BH7 in to replace a 12AU7. Probably the Pilot 260, but maybe the Bogen 225. I recall it stayed in there for very little time and I put the 12AU7 back in. I don't remember what exactly I disliked about the sound but it was bad enough that I wasn't interested in continuing that experiment.
 
I have the ST-120. A couple of years ago, I ordered the octal board for it and put it in. I have a set of old russian 6H8C tubes that I put in. I will never go back to the 12AU7 board. In fact, I will get the M125s one day and will have the octal boards included with the kit. I have the SP14 pre and have a pair of chrome domes and a pair of 6H8Cs in there and will never change out those tubes. I would recommend the 6H8C if you are interested in tube rolling. On a side note, I also have the PH14 phono pre. It has the 12AX7 tubes in there and newer tubes tend to go microphonic pretty quick in that circuit. NOS tubes hold up well. Since the 6H9C is the same as a 6SL7, which is the 8 pin equivalent of the 12AX7, I am going to rebuild the chassis so I can fit 6SL7/6H9C instead of the 9 pin tubes. I will go all octal on my amp, preamp and phono pre.
 
I have the ST-120. A couple of years ago, I ordered the octal board for it and put it in. I have a set of old russian 6H8C tubes that I put in. I will never go back to the 12AU7 board. In fact, I will get the M125s one day and will have the octal boards included with the kit. I have the SP14 pre and have a pair of chrome domes and a pair of 6H8Cs in there and will never change out those tubes. I would recommend the 6H8C if you are interested in tube rolling. On a side note, I also have the PH14 phono pre. It has the 12AX7 tubes in there and newer tubes tend to go microphonic pretty quick in that circuit. NOS tubes hold up well. Since the 6H9C is the same as a 6SL7, which is the 8 pin equivalent of the 12AX7, I am going to rebuild the chassis so I can fit 6SL7/6H9C instead of the 9 pin tubes. I will go all octal on my amp, preamp and phono pre.
Is there room to just use socket adaptors? I have a 6SN7 to 12AU7 socket adaptor I've used. You can get 6SL7 to 12AX7 adaptors. No need to make modifications.
 
LM335 is a temperature sensor. Did you mean LM334, the constant current source?
I've been using the 9 pin 12AU7 VTA drivers in my MK3 clones for a few years. Always happy with them, although I did find some 12AU7s pretty bright. The best sounding to me were JJ ECC802 as they took off a bit of the edge. I did try the 12BH7, but had a hard time finding some that were not severely microphonic. I decided to try the octal version. No real need to, but it's a hobby, right?

Got them built and installed over the weekend. Ran all day Sunday.

I did make some changes over my installed 9 pin versions. Added the 100uF cap upgrade and didn't use the supplied Jantzen coupling caps. I had some Audyn caps I wanted to try. I don't think there's much difference, they are the same metalized polypropylene 400V build. About the same physical size too, just wanted to point out my comparison is not only a tube change. One other change that I've been looking forward to was adding 25 turn bias pots in place of the single turn hyper-sensitive supplied pots. Much nicer!

The boards differ very little in component selection. Only the resistors for the PI CCS regulation and gain stage grid leak resistor were changed. I'll add here that the drawn schematics for both boards differed quite a bit from the supplied components / BOM. It seems like the drawings were early versions and never updated as the circuit was tweaked.

I installed the LM335 on the bottom of the boards. Seemed too close to the larger ceramic tube socket to me. Possible heat issue.

Well. I really think after some time listing to familiar tracks that the 6SN7 is a much better tube choice for this circuit. The 12AU7 was fine, but immediately I noticed not more bass, but more bass punch / presence. Possibly the bigger 100uF caps, but there is more everything to be honest. Seems more dynamic / lively a bit more holographic. The pops at the end Deacon Blues were "wider" more pronounced. Nothing dramatic or night and day, but a quite a bit more than I was expecting.

Was hoping to get some decent before and after tests in, but my laptop that I use with ARTA kicked off. I think I fried the sound card with too much juice to the mic in... I did look at power out and SQ waves. Pretty much unchanged. Would have liked to see FR sweeps and distortion. Something for later when I can get back up with another laptop.

I'd say if you're looking at these and unsure, probably go for the octal if you have the PT to handle a little more filament current and are OK with the aesthetic. If you're like me with perfectly fine 9 pin boards and are just wondering, yeah, do it. They are pretty inexpensive and you could always flip them if you wanted. I'm keeping mine.View attachment 3701619
View attachment 3701618
View attachment 3701621
source
 
The LM334 CCS has a fairly large thermal drift as it warms. There is a fix for this that involves a diode and a couple of resistors. It is explained in the datasheet starting on page 6 and an application example on page 8. There is a ready to install CCS with these changes from the eastern European auto bias board seller on ebay. Miller Audio also sells a ready to install compensated CCS.

This guy also explains how to do it.

I've been intending to add this to my Mk2's and I have the parts but they are still in the bag.
 
The LM334 CCS has a fairly large thermal drift as it warms. There is a fix for this that involves a diode and a couple of resistors. It is explained in the datasheet starting on page 6 and an application example on page 8. There is a ready to install CCS with these changes from the eastern European auto bias board seller on ebay. Miller Audio also sells a ready to install compensated CCS.

This guy also explains how to do it.

I've been intending to add this to my Mk2's and I have the parts but they are still in the bag.

Interesting. I book marked the page. I wonder if the Modified CCS for 12AU7 is the same for 6SN7. The CCS resistor value was one of the few items on the PCB that changed between the two versions.
 
Yes... For the PI CCS. It was very close to the hot ceramic socket, so I felt it would be better to move it under the PCB
That's what I did with the MKlll boards in my M-125 mono blocks.
I figured the temperature would be more stable as well between the two devices installing them underneath.
 
The LM334 CCS has a fairly large thermal drift as it warms. There is a fix for this that involves a diode and a couple of resistors. It is explained in the datasheet starting on page 6 and an application example on page 8. There is a ready to install CCS with these changes from the eastern European auto bias board seller on ebay. Miller Audio also sells a ready to install compensated CCS.

This guy also explains how to do it.

I've been intending to add this to my Mk2's and I have the parts but they are still in the bag.
I have applied that fix to a project I had using the LM334. It works.
 
Were you using new manufacture 12BH7's?
Every NOS 12BH7 I've bought sounds great, and have been non microphonoic. I have Sylvania's, Siemens, and Phillips. I have them in my M-125 mono blocks, and VTA ST-70. I only use them in the voltage gain socket though. So one per amp. I tried an EH new manufacture 12BH7 and it caused a hum and was microphonic. I tossed it in the trash and stuck with old stock tubes.
dont think ive had any microphony either, and i have a buncha old stock 12BH7
 
Back
Top Bottom